So i finnished up puttin the new motor back in the car. Give it a try and it wont start. cranks over fine and has compression. Pulled a plug wire and it has spark, and pulled a plug and its gettin fuel. Not sure where to start or what to look at or for. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, i unhooked the INT-x and jsut tried starting it off the stock ECU. Figured mayme it as an INT-x issue. did the exact same thing. cranks but wont start. does not really sound like its wanting to either. Just the sound of cranking over. Could the Essentric shaft position sensor be off for some reason. Or is it possible to install the plate behind the pully that the sensor reads wrong or flipped backward? ANYWAY, any help or things to check would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Sounds like it is flooded. Check and re-check all connections. make sure you have a good battery and do the factory deflood procedure. It will seem like it will never work but if you have a good battery it will work eventually.

 

Is it brand new or rebuilt ? My experience with rebuilt motors is that they don't have good compression initially . I ended up push starting mine .

Also : this may sound odd but make sure your temp sensor is plugged in ....

 

did the brake pedal reset and nothing. Have not tried the de-flooding yet. i will give it more of a go later on tonight or tomorrow. just so damn frusterating when you finally get it all done and it still has issues

 

No codes?

 

Try pouring a couple ounces of 2-stroke oil in the engine via the LIM service nipples while cranking the engine. After the couple ounces enter the engine it should fire up.

 

well i tried the 2 strokeoil bit. still nothing. I also tried de flooding the engine. still getting the same thing. its odd cuz its sounds like its not even hitting on any faces. like maybe timing. thats why i was originally thinking the e shaft position sensor. but is there a wrong way to put that on. i mean the wheel behind hte pully only lines up one way correct? maybe have it flipped over? i dunno jsut firing off ideas here.

oh.. and its a rebuild not new.

 

The e-shaft trigger wheel only mounts in one orientation without modifications.

 

try push or pull starting it . That will totally eliminate any flooding/compression/weak battery issues.
If that does not work you know you have an installation problem .

 

Or any other of a host of potentials.

 

pull the plugs-what do they look like?

 

true - but if it is going to start , it will definattely start with a push or pull .

 

If you are using a BHR Ignition System make sure you connected the ground wire properly.

 

Agreed, but your previous conclusion was incomplete. That's all I was pointing out. There may be a bad sensor, poor engine build, broken wire harness, etc.

It is rather easy to drive ourselves crazy by overlooking one thing or another during diagnosis.

 

Sure - that's why i suggest he tries a push start - because it eliminates quite a few of the possible causes very easily .

 

Will try the push start tomorrow. The build was done by Steve Kan. I have been talking to him also about all this. I am using the BHR harness for the ignition system. The coils were moved to the lower cross bracing right infront of the motor and grounded to the same brace with the factory groudn right there. I think they should be grounded correctly.

 

Pull starting should be a good way to break in that new clutch to lol

 

to answer the plug question, the plugs are wet with fuel but not dripping wet... if that makes any since. I put new plugs in before i tried to start it at all. no burning or discoloration on the plug.

 

If you are using D585 coils and everything is wired in properly, it is nearly impossible to flood your engine.

 

The wiring harness was made by BHR, and the connectors on the factory harness are still numbered from when i had the "ignition solution" on back in the day and they tell youto number them 1- 4 in the instructions. So, the BHR harness is plugged into hte factory harness and the ground is on the lower cross brace in the engine bay. the coil marked 1 is the LF, 2-TF, 3-LR, 4-TR.

Since were talkin gcoils. another factory ground is running right underneight the plug wires perpendicular to ALL the plug wires. They are practically sittin on it. Would that cause and issue with spark? Would a positive lead doing the same thing cause an issue also?

 

Reading with interest.
Not sure what it could be at this point as you got some real heavyweights in here attempting to help.
I just read what you said about the plugs and last night when reading this, I was going to suggest that you take those out and really get them dry, then dry crank the engine(pulling the fuel relay) until you see no more fuel or puffs of smoke out the plug holes. Then install the plugs but not the relay. Crank it and when it starts to catch, plug that fuel relay in real quick.
HOWEVER...........All of the above is probably moot given what you've now said.

I think you still need to go out and try to push/pull start it. That's going to be the best way right now. If it doesn't fire up doing that, then everyone may reset their thinking to some degree.

If you are quoting your coil positions from front to back, then it looks okay in terms of order. The one thing I can't remember, but I think it's true....is that the factory harness has four different lengths and I think they run longest to shortest from the front to rear.

 

correct, the factory plugs run from longest to shortest from front to rear. I have also pulled hte plugs and the pump relay and turned the motor over to remove fuel. put the plugs back in and gave it a shot. when cranking it with the relay out and all plugs in, i can not hear it trying to fire and take off. however, one time i removed both leading plugs and forgot to un plug hte trailing plugs. it did however try to take off then. woops.

another question. A thread on here got me thinking. How many factory grounds go to the crossbar under where the stock airbox would be. Two or three? just trying to think hree at work about the install and everything i could have missed.

I will try the pull start tonight if this storm lets up and i tie up a few loose ends on the car.

Should i try the pull start off the stock ecu or with the INT-X hooked up?

 

Hey, I have an idea!
Before the BIG DOGS start back in(and I sink back into the shadows)..........let me ask you three questions.

1.) You mentioned you had another ignition system in there at one time...........was it the Mazsport?

2.) The so called factory harness that is leading up to the BHR harness(which goes to the coils)............is this a "new" one or the one that was used with "other" ignition system?

3.) This will kind of eliminate my idea and invalidate my other two questions, but did you ever have the BHR running on the old motor?

Go to go to a meeting and spank some people, but I'll be back and read your answers. Based on those answers, I may have an idea.

 

A long time ago, before the motor went, i had the MAzsport coils on the car, after that they got swapped out to Okada coils. Then, the INT-x fried on the car causing many issues including a blown motor and burning and melting of the okada coils. Durring engine troubleshooting for the blown motor i put the OEM coils back on. The car ran with OEM coils, although there was low compressioin and needed a rebuild. While waiting on cash to do a rebuild i purchased the LS coils and a harness from BHR. I installed them on the car (wiht the blwon motor) and the car ran as expected (still low compression and a blown motor)

Now, the motor was taken out and taken to texas for a rebuild, shipped back to me, and installed. The LS coils and BHR wiring harness is installed. The BHR harness is plugged directly into the factory main harness for the four ignition coils and the other end of the BHR harness goes directly into the coils. Any more coil questions lol.

Thanks everyone for yourhelp by the way. Gettin my thoughts goin myself.