No Compression in San Diego. Any help? I have beer.
#1
No Compression in San Diego. Any help? I have beer.
Hine Mazda said there is compression when cold, but little when warm. Starting to go through the 5 stages of grief. Should I accept I need a new engine or are there other options?
Any pros in San Diego, California? Or Orange County, Or LA?
I have sent Paul at Mazmart a PM. I would love to get my hands on a ceramic rebuild, but wouldn't we all? To add to the weighing of the cost, faith in my 8 is faulting. After the new engine, it's likely it's still a lemon. 125k on cat, suspension, clutch... well everything except tires, ignition and fuel pump. I have a bent chrome rim too (somehow that was the catalyst of my current scenario, go in for tires, leave without a working engine)
If any body is interested, I'd be happy to detail the reason it's in the shop and troubleshooting of the engine, to help with your current dilemma. Because, unfortunately, I am not alone.
How are you guys handling this?????
Any pros in San Diego, California? Or Orange County, Or LA?
I have sent Paul at Mazmart a PM. I would love to get my hands on a ceramic rebuild, but wouldn't we all? To add to the weighing of the cost, faith in my 8 is faulting. After the new engine, it's likely it's still a lemon. 125k on cat, suspension, clutch... well everything except tires, ignition and fuel pump. I have a bent chrome rim too (somehow that was the catalyst of my current scenario, go in for tires, leave without a working engine)
If any body is interested, I'd be happy to detail the reason it's in the shop and troubleshooting of the engine, to help with your current dilemma. Because, unfortunately, I am not alone.
How are you guys handling this?????
#2
if the car was running fine before the compression test, it just needs an engine. if it was flooded or had a bad coil(s), then the extra fuel will lower the compression numbers.
there is no way to fix worn seals without pulling the engine.
however if the car drove fine before the compression test, it'll drive the same after...
there is no way to fix worn seals without pulling the engine.
however if the car drove fine before the compression test, it'll drive the same after...
#3
Registered
Have you actually noticed any loss of compression symptoms? If you go for a drive and turn off your car and then try to restart it does it start right away or is it very difficult to get started again unless you give it time to cool down?
#5
Yes, my 8 will not start until cool.
In 6 months it's flooded 3 times. Each about 2-5k miles apart.
1st time replaced wires, battery and plugs. Second time just the de-flood procedure. 3rd time, new coils plugs and fuel pump.
After the first flood, everything was back to normal (or better with new wires and plugs).
The second, time the engine light had come on just before and there were gaps in power at 6k+ rpm. I told them about it, but they couldn't figure out what why it was misfiring. Charged me $700.
The third time, I held on to it for a few days. Did the fuel pump, plugs and coils myself. After that, still couldn't get it started, so towed it again to Mazda. They said compression was fine and charged me $158 for de-flood and compression test. So I test drove it, no more loss of power at 6k, everything was great. Until I turned it off and it wouldn't restart. Then mazda said that compression was good cold, but hot, its reading 5.0 (r1) and 5.5(r2)
So it will run from a cold start, just can't take it to a gas station.
They did perform the MazdaSpeed cleaning/seafoam/ATF treatment
Phil- I can do more than beer. Know anyone is SD who may be able to help?
Anyone heard of getting insurance to pay for a new motor?
In 6 months it's flooded 3 times. Each about 2-5k miles apart.
1st time replaced wires, battery and plugs. Second time just the de-flood procedure. 3rd time, new coils plugs and fuel pump.
After the first flood, everything was back to normal (or better with new wires and plugs).
The second, time the engine light had come on just before and there were gaps in power at 6k+ rpm. I told them about it, but they couldn't figure out what why it was misfiring. Charged me $700.
The third time, I held on to it for a few days. Did the fuel pump, plugs and coils myself. After that, still couldn't get it started, so towed it again to Mazda. They said compression was fine and charged me $158 for de-flood and compression test. So I test drove it, no more loss of power at 6k, everything was great. Until I turned it off and it wouldn't restart. Then mazda said that compression was good cold, but hot, its reading 5.0 (r1) and 5.5(r2)
So it will run from a cold start, just can't take it to a gas station.
They did perform the MazdaSpeed cleaning/seafoam/ATF treatment
Phil- I can do more than beer. Know anyone is SD who may be able to help?
Anyone heard of getting insurance to pay for a new motor?
#6
Registered
You need a new engine then, and there really is no cheap option. You can get one build by a good company that will last you or you can get a reman from Mazda that will be hit or miss. You could also try and have yours rebuilt but I don't really know what the cheaper option is, it probably depends on your exact internal problems.
I really doubt you could convince insurance to do it since it was not an accident, just wear and tear.
I really doubt you could convince insurance to do it since it was not an accident, just wear and tear.
#7
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
iTrader: (3)
Yes, my 8 will not start until cool.
In 6 months it's flooded 3 times. Each about 2-5k miles apart.
1st time replaced wires, battery and plugs. Second time just the de-flood procedure. 3rd time, new coils plugs and fuel pump.
After the first flood, everything was back to normal (or better with new wires and plugs).
The second, time the engine light had come on just before and there were gaps in power at 6k+ rpm. I told them about it, but they couldn't figure out what why it was misfiring. Charged me $700.
The third time, I held on to it for a few days. Did the fuel pump, plugs and coils myself. After that, still couldn't get it started, so towed it again to Mazda. They said compression was fine and charged me $158 for de-flood and compression test. So I test drove it, no more loss of power at 6k, everything was great. Until I turned it off and it wouldn't restart. Then mazda said that compression was good cold, but hot, its reading 5.0 (r1) and 5.5(r2)
So it will run from a cold start, just can't take it to a gas station.
They did perform the MazdaSpeed cleaning/seafoam/ATF treatment
Phil- I can do more than beer. Know anyone is SD who may be able to help?
Anyone heard of getting insurance to pay for a new motor?
In 6 months it's flooded 3 times. Each about 2-5k miles apart.
1st time replaced wires, battery and plugs. Second time just the de-flood procedure. 3rd time, new coils plugs and fuel pump.
After the first flood, everything was back to normal (or better with new wires and plugs).
The second, time the engine light had come on just before and there were gaps in power at 6k+ rpm. I told them about it, but they couldn't figure out what why it was misfiring. Charged me $700.
The third time, I held on to it for a few days. Did the fuel pump, plugs and coils myself. After that, still couldn't get it started, so towed it again to Mazda. They said compression was fine and charged me $158 for de-flood and compression test. So I test drove it, no more loss of power at 6k, everything was great. Until I turned it off and it wouldn't restart. Then mazda said that compression was good cold, but hot, its reading 5.0 (r1) and 5.5(r2)
So it will run from a cold start, just can't take it to a gas station.
They did perform the MazdaSpeed cleaning/seafoam/ATF treatment
Phil- I can do more than beer. Know anyone is SD who may be able to help?
Anyone heard of getting insurance to pay for a new motor?
Insurance? Only if you have an after market warranty service or an extended warranty plan from Mazda.
Chances are that the flooding is due to a lack of an old flash on your car (dealer flash) and some poor starting habits. Flooding can be caused by a bad engine but I would not count on it.
Face it, the engine is gone and you need a rebuild, reman or replacement engine.
#8
Thanks Phil, Mazda Parts from Good-Win Racing - Mazda Performance Specialists was super helpful, but aren't currently swapping out rx8 motors.
I am trying to decide if I should go with a motor with some upgraded apex and water seals (for better reliability) and porting, or just the basic reman ( I have heard the Mazda remans are hit and miss). I haven't heard back from everybody yet, but it looks like the cheapest I can get a reman done is about $3.4k, and the best I can get on improved rebuild is $4.9k. Cost is very much the issue.
I would like to say, All the vendors, listed on this site, I have spoken with so far, have been super informative, helpful, and there is a obvious sense of commitment to the rotor community .
Vendors- Im taking bids. LOL
I am trying to decide if I should go with a motor with some upgraded apex and water seals (for better reliability) and porting, or just the basic reman ( I have heard the Mazda remans are hit and miss). I haven't heard back from everybody yet, but it looks like the cheapest I can get a reman done is about $3.4k, and the best I can get on improved rebuild is $4.9k. Cost is very much the issue.
I would like to say, All the vendors, listed on this site, I have spoken with so far, have been super informative, helpful, and there is a obvious sense of commitment to the rotor community .
Vendors- Im taking bids. LOL
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