no low-end power...
06-20-2009, 03:23 PM
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no low-end power...
my 2004 rx8 takes longer to start than it used to and has pretty much no power until 5000 rpm. I already changed the spark plugs. Just thought I would get some more info before taking it to the dealership, because if I can fix it without going there I would be extremely happy. Any suggestions would be great, thanks
06-23-2009, 05:43 AM
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Hard to say if the coils, wires, or plugs will solve the problem.
I had all of the above replaced at 50000 miles and noticed an improvement in power and no longer have occasional stalling problems at lights when trying to accelerate from a stop.
When the coils were pulled I could see burn marks on the surface.
I would have those checked and probably replace coils, wires, and maybe have a compression check done on the engine, too.
I had all of the above replaced at 50000 miles and noticed an improvement in power and no longer have occasional stalling problems at lights when trying to accelerate from a stop.
When the coils were pulled I could see burn marks on the surface.
I would have those checked and probably replace coils, wires, and maybe have a compression check done on the engine, too.
06-23-2009, 07:56 AM
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Bad coils can lead to a loss in power and starting problems. A lot of people have said that after changing the coils they noticed a sizeable increase in power and low end torque. The wires are probably the strongest item out of the plugs/ignition coils/wires so they should be replaced last. It's also said that the coils only last between 20k - 30k miles and need to be replaced. It's a very simple job to do and all you need to do is remove the accordian pipe and its connections, loosen the air box and you then have the maximum amount of access you'll need.
It is a tough job to get the plugs off the coils if it's never been done before. This is due to the high temperature in this area which kind of "welds" the rubber in place. Either use brute force (remembering to hold down the coil and not to yank the whole wire as it's attached to the spark plugs at the other end) or try and get a small bit of washing-up liquid in between the rubber and the coil. If using brute force, the top end of the coil might come off with the plug. This doesn't make a difference as long as you can get it out of the plug. Leaving the coils securely bolted down will help with this.
Don't forget that all the coils are the same so there's no set coil for each plug, just install them as you unbox them and be VERY careful when removing and replacing the nut not to drop it into the engine. You'll need a 10mm socket with a long extension to reach the nuts. Make sure that the coils are lined up properly before fully tightening the nut i.e. push them towards the cabin where they should line up easily. The hardest part is loosening the air box. There's videos on youtube that show you how to do this if you don't already know. After it's loosened, just leave it there. There's no need whatsoever to disconnect it totally but if you like, this is a good time to wash it out if needs be.
The nut closest to the air intake is a little tricky to get at due to a pipe with a plastic clip around it. Just pull this back towards you (considering you're standing at the side of the car) then get the socket over the bolt and let go of the plastic. It's always good to have someone else there to give you a hand.
When you have the coils out, look on the bottom surface of each for a white mark. Kind of looks like a hard water mark. This means the coils are past their time and need to be replaced.
Make sure you reconnect everything especially the MAF sensor if you disconnect it which isn't necessary. If you don't, you'll have very rough idling and a pool of petrol on the ground at each exhaust.
I hope this helps and if you have any problems just come back to us
Printing off this post and following it will guide you through this job very easily.
It is a tough job to get the plugs off the coils if it's never been done before. This is due to the high temperature in this area which kind of "welds" the rubber in place. Either use brute force (remembering to hold down the coil and not to yank the whole wire as it's attached to the spark plugs at the other end) or try and get a small bit of washing-up liquid in between the rubber and the coil. If using brute force, the top end of the coil might come off with the plug. This doesn't make a difference as long as you can get it out of the plug. Leaving the coils securely bolted down will help with this.
Don't forget that all the coils are the same so there's no set coil for each plug, just install them as you unbox them and be VERY careful when removing and replacing the nut not to drop it into the engine. You'll need a 10mm socket with a long extension to reach the nuts. Make sure that the coils are lined up properly before fully tightening the nut i.e. push them towards the cabin where they should line up easily. The hardest part is loosening the air box. There's videos on youtube that show you how to do this if you don't already know. After it's loosened, just leave it there. There's no need whatsoever to disconnect it totally but if you like, this is a good time to wash it out if needs be.
The nut closest to the air intake is a little tricky to get at due to a pipe with a plastic clip around it. Just pull this back towards you (considering you're standing at the side of the car) then get the socket over the bolt and let go of the plastic. It's always good to have someone else there to give you a hand.
When you have the coils out, look on the bottom surface of each for a white mark. Kind of looks like a hard water mark. This means the coils are past their time and need to be replaced.
Make sure you reconnect everything especially the MAF sensor if you disconnect it which isn't necessary. If you don't, you'll have very rough idling and a pool of petrol on the ground at each exhaust.
I hope this helps and if you have any problems just come back to us
Printing off this post and following it will guide you through this job very easily.
Last edited by EinHeisserSchrei; 06-23-2009 at 08:11 AM.
07-23-2009, 10:51 AM
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i ended up taking my car to the dealership and after about 3 days they found the problem. There was carbon build up in the engine. So they de-carbonized the engine and charged me $500. But it ended up solving all of the problems I was having. It even starts better now, but the guy at the dealership said I might need a new starter in a month or 2.
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