davefzr

Hey there guys.. I have had long issues with a CEL in my car for probably the last 30,000 miles. There was a period where I reinstalled practically all of the components on my car back to stock and it still existed. The only parts that I never tried to reinstall back to stock were the flywheel/clutch.

I purchased the ACT combination pack flywheel/clutch assembly about 35,000 miles ago. Since then I had installed other products on my car and thought that was the reason why I was getting the CEL.

I know that many of us have purchased the ACT combo pack from SR motorsports so maybe this is why many of us have CEL issues. I know we cant all have the issue but maybe many of us do.

My experience in automotive issues is not great at all, but what I can do is comment on what I see as the parts change in my car.

For the last few months I have been having clutch issues. The engagement from gear to gear would be very hard and at times I would almost have to force it into gear. Last month I purchased to Axial Flow short throw shifter and this just made things worse. I took my car in to get evaluated and it was their professional opinion that I needed a new clutch.

I contacted RP racing and purchased the Bonez clutch. Let me tell you this. This one purchase cured all of my issues.

I usually got a CEL when in 3rd gear taking it up to 9,000 and shifting fast into 4th. No more..

I have taken my car to the track and have gone through 4 - 25 minute sessions and didnt get one CEL.

All I can do is comment on this but I really do believe that the CEL was because somehow my clutch was slipping and this was translated into the car not applying the proper power to the ground and throwing a CEL.

I have read many times on here about how the car will throw a CEL because something about the shaft does not equate to the cars power output level...

It's truly amazing to me though that for the past 30,000 miles I have been living with a constant CEL and now that I have a new clutch, it's completely gone...

Does this make sense to anyone? Just thought I would throw this out there because it's rare to see a thread with CEL in the title and good news to follow...

Thankx!

swoope

iTrader: (5)

no it makes no sence at all. what was the cel code??????

maybe when they insalled the new clutch they reinstalled something right. like got the o2 sensor tightened down all the way or plugged in a wire tight that was not before.

beers

davefzr

It's the same code that everyone on here always gets when they mention a CEL.

P0004 - Random Misfire... The catch all trouble code..

To me though, I would have gotten a code that was related to the emissions system and I didnt.

Maybe it was a loose o2 sensor like you say, but all I that I know now is that it's completely fixed and has been for just over a month now... Maybe I am one of the lucky ones because even I have to admit that it seems farfetched....

swoope

iTrader: (5)

random missfire is usually plugs, coils, and the like.... i am not saying that the cluch change did not fix it, but it is damn unlikely.

beers

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

they probably pulled the battery during the install... it will come back when the random problem appears once again

davefzr

I'll report back every once in a while and update you.. So far no CEL and I am hoping it stays like that. The whole reason why I believe it's fixed is because I would disconnect the battery myself and/or reset the PCM to clear the trouble codes and it would be back within days.

There was never a time where I could take my car to the track for a day and not have the CEL blinking in my face for every session throughout the entire day.

Razz1

Looks like you just lost your nick name... Mr Cel.

Hope it stays off.

davefzr

Hey guys.. Well, I am completely convinced that my CEL is gone for good now..

I attended another track event at the Ca. Speedway just this past weekend and ran 5-25 minute sessions without the CEL light coming on one time. The traction control came on though because it was raining.. Man was that a fun day! Just wanted to report back and say that I do not know how a clutch change cured my CEL, but that is certainly fine with me!

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue with the same cure. Bad cluch or pressure plate...Random misfire. Replace clutch...no more cel.

But my pressure plate, clutch and flywheel friction ring were complete toast when I pulled them (there are pics here on this forum). How did yours look?

davefzr

In my case the flywheel was fine but the pressure plate/clutch disc had the major issues.

It makes you wonder if many of the CEL issues that everyone on this board has been discussing is due to a faulty clutch (SR Motorsports in my case).. Food for thought.

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

could you post pics?

davefzr

Sorry, but I didnt keep any of the old parts.. They are gone now.

I'll give anohter update later after some more time/mods.. haha

djmano

davefzr, i followed up on your old thread concerning the flashing cel and the misfire issue. i am having the same exact problem, and now that i read this thread it makes alot of sense.

i just took the car out for a drive to try and replicate the problem (its been bugging me ever since i went to my first track day a few weeks ago and i had to pull off the track for fear of destroying my car when the cel would flash) then it hit me. whenever i would redline 3rd and shift into 4th, the clutch would grab kind of funky. it seemed to slip for a moment, then grab but by that time the dreaded flashing cel of death would pop in my face.

if the clutch truly is the problem to our misfiring issue i am at a lost for words. its crazy to me that i followed your problem all the way to this thread! i know you had a hard time and it must have driven you crazy! glad to see that your problems gone and you can finally enjoy your car.

maybe we can receive compensation from ACT or SR if that really is the problem?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Two possible correlations:
1) Bad ESS position data - cured by reset
2) Vibration/chatter from the clutch triggering the knock sensor when off-load which may throw a P0004. The PCM does not expect knock sensor output when in a low-load situation.
Just for kicks, try hitting a rotor housing with a wrench while the motor is idling and watch what happens.

Though it is attractive to think the latter, I'd be more inclined to believe the former.
Beyond that, you were probably suffering from a bad cause-effect relationship.

djmano

i feel like i have the same problem that was plauging dave but an ecu reset did not make it go away.

i did the odometer one and the brake pedal one. excuse my lack of proper terminology (NVRAM and i forgot the other one).

unless im misintepreting your directions?

1) With the key in the off position, press and hold the odometer reset button and turn the key to on;
Continue to hold the odo button until the odometer reads "TEST" and then release.
2) Turn the key to off and repeat step one.

i interpret these instructions to mean basically go through the process twice? in other words, ill hold the odometer till it reads 'test' then turn key off. then repeat the process again and turn off. then im good to go?

Razz1

that's the way I do it.

Aseras

pull the battery cable off and wait a minute, then reconnect, go get in car, hold the odo reset button down. turn the key on and keep stomping the brake pedal until the oil gauge moves to the middle and back. let go of odo reset and turn key off. start car and the cel should be gone.

If you have abs/DSC lights on, turn the steering wheel all the way right, then all the way left and then all the way right again. turn off the car and restart and it should reset. then go drive it for a few minutes ( get it up over 50 ) to let the ecu reprogram itself.