SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. Just put an engine in the car and fired it up for the first time. The car started and idled fine. I let it idle for a few minutes and checked for leaks, etc.

Everything seemed good so I decided to drive it up the road. As soon as I got on the road, and started to accelerate, the car fell on its face.

Would not rev over 3000 RPM's...and it takes a long time to get to that point.(drove 5 miles or so this way....couldn't get it over 30mph.)

I have a code reader, and it reads p2004......the runner control code. But I've searched that code and it sounds like that code should come on after 5500 RPM....my car hasn't revved that high since I've put the engine in....so it must be something else screwing up...right?

I hear a vacuum leak coming from somewhere by the intake....i'll be doing more searching to locate that in the morning....but is there anything in particular that I need to be looking at?


P.s.....what could cause that code? I read on here that that code has nothing to do with vacuum, and I haven't revved above 5500 rpm.

Also, car is completely stock....just haven't changed my sig yet....

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

EricB

iTrader: (7)

dont take anything that im about to say serious because i have no experience in any of this but....

did you rebuild your engine yourself?

did you apply the correct ft/lbs when building the motor?

Check your compression?

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Didn't build the engine....bought a used one that tested good compression. (i dont have the compression numbers.)

flyinglow

Start researching Auxillary Port Valves and part number N3H6-13-B70. Sounds like the module is bad. Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but if you had someone turn the key on and off inside the car, you should be able to hear those valves open and close. If you dont, it is a good chance you need to replace the actuator.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

just a guess, limp mode?

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

I found the vacuum leak I was hearing....the throttle body gasket was missing.

Fixed that, but the powerless issue is still there. Revs up to 3500 rpm, but from 2000ish rpms up it takes forever to rev that high, and cuts really bad.

Does anybody have a picture of what that aux port solenoid would look like? I've tried searching, but cant find a picture.

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Found this youtube video that shows you how to check all of these valves.


I'm gonna try to test these tonight and see what I find.

Is there anything special you have to do when installing the apv motor? I replaced that motor with my old one because it had been damaged on the old motor....so I'm pretty sure this is my problem.

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Another question........I just went out and looked stuff over. When the key is on, it sounds like that apv motor is running....its a little whine that sounds like its coming from that motor. It doesnt ever stop whining though....with the key on and the engine off.....I cant hear it when the engine is on.
It also sounds like a little click every few seconds like it is slipping off of that gear maybe (not sure thats what it is doing, just thinking out loud....)

Is this normal? Should it stop after its turned a certain amount?

Is there an easy way to get the motor off? I can get the bottom bolt out, but not a chance on the top one.

thanks.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

This is a concern.
With you receiving a P2004 code and the possibility the APV is stuck open, I can see how this could relate to your problem.
Just to be sure, you can apply voltage to the motor manually and see if the motor continues to run.
Here is a post I made in another thread showing how I do it:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...99&postcount=4

Yes.
As you see in my video you posted above, it does stop.

Take off the passenger-side wheel and you can reach it through there.
Once the motor is off, spin the white gear and see if you can turn that freely (and see if it ever stops turning).

flyinglow

Here is a link within the service manual that talks about removing and troubleshooting the APV. http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar...301005W16.html

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Update.

Motor is off. White gear seems to turn fine.. turns a certain distance then stops. seems to be functioning fine.

The motor itself concerns me a bit.
When I run power to it via the battery....it turns, but very slowly. Reverse polarity and the same thing happens but it doesnt have a whole lot of speed.

I plugged it in and turned the key to the on position to see what it would do. The motor turns real slow for 15-20 seconds, then it will go fast for about 2 seconds, then it goes back to slow. it cycles like this continuously.

When I turned the key off it sped up, then switched directions, then shut off.


I noticed that the apv motor is cracked on the inside(the housing that surrounds the gear) not sure if this matters...

Now, two questions. I put that motor on, and may not have paid attention to the location of the magnet on the gear. Should I just replace the motor while it's out? Or should I turn the gear to the position your other post says, and re-install it?

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

this is a video of the motor with the key in the on position.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8WS_...ature=youtu.be

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

That is the throttle body. It is normal.

Did you check your injector wiring? I'd bet that it is wrong.

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Ok, another update.

I found another apv motor in my box of parts so I decided to install it. I cleared the light, and did the 20 pump pedal thing.

When I start the car it fired right up and idled good. I backed out of the garage and let it idle for a minute. After 20 seconds or so the engine light came on. I let it idle a couple minutes more anyways then tried revving it. Same thing. This time it revs to 4300 RPM and then starts struggling.

I decided to check the engine light with an actron code reader and it says "pass, no codes found."

I clicked clear on the handheld and also did the 20 pump thing. I started it back up and tried revving it. For the first 10 seconds or so it acts PERFECT. Revs to redline and seems fine. Then the engine light on and the it cuts the power. The rpms drop to 3500 RPm and it does the same thing as before.

When I check the light, it still says pass no codes found.


Any new ideas?

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

The motor was pulled with the upper intake left on....shouldn't have ever been unplugged. Will I have to pull off the upper intake off to check it?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Hook up the AccessPORT and start using some of its diagnostic value.
Get throttle position, AFR and MAF data.

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Haven't had a chance to get the numbers From the Cobb yet, but on my lunch break I ran home and installed it to the car.

When it was installed, I used it to check the engine light and it reads e1900.

Any clue what that is?

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

I typed that wrong....u1900 is the code

SEANMAC777

iTrader: (1)

Update. I checked the e shaft sensor and it seemed fine. clean. I had cleared that light so I started it again and got another code. P1688. OMP,

I should have thought of this sooner....but I know what is wrong. It's in limp mode because when I got the used motor, the omp connector was broken. I pulled the connector off and put my connector on it. I didnt reset the pump though, just switched the plug out.

I've searched that code, and found out you have to reset the switch.....so I will try that tonight and I am guessing this will fix my problem.

Any input? Otherwise, thanks for your help guys. I will let you know if this fixes it...I'm pretty sure it will.

mckinleyr97

Have the same issue (car revs up VERY slowly), p1688 error code... I have an obd ii reader and reset the code myself; doesn't happen every start-up, maybe 33% of the time...

What fixed this?