I searched and found a lot of possibilities but am hopeful someone has more direct insight.

Last week or so I've had intermittent no spark/no start problems. Car would crank but not start. First couple times it seemed like flooding and after pulling the pump fuse, cranking, waiting 20 minutes would solve the problem. Now intemittently, it cranks and simply won't start. Tech looked at it, started right up after he pushed it into the bay. Happened again, confirmed it was no spark.

Today, I was actually driving at low speed on a dirt road and the engine cut out and wouldn't restart.

Now, that said, I have the old Mazsport ignition kit on there, and replaced the battery with a yellow top optima two weeks ago. I don't think its the coils. I was initially thinking maybe the starter, but why would it cut out like it did?

Tech ran codes and he got was P0850 which is the neutral switch. That can't be causing it right? Is the CPS an issue?

Just looking for guidance to point my guy come Monday morning when I'm renting a car.

 

Dave, recently there have been a few post's on Eccentric Shaft sensor issues, it seems it is prone to attracting debris as it is magnetic .This was causing start/no start issue's .The problem was remedied by removing it and cleaning. One member who did this unfortunately snapped the retaining bolt in the engine,, I dont know if it's cleanable when still attached.

 

If you have an "old" Mazsport ignition kit, then chances are the ignition box has or is failing. Check any ground circuit to it and all connections.

 

Yep, the ground would be crucial!

 

Yes, it is easily cleaned by wiping it with a rag and removal of the sensor is not necessary to do so. However, sudden/immediate failure is typically seen when a part physically breaks or an electrical component fails. This leads me to be suspicious of the Microtech ignitor module in your Mazsport ignition system, as mentioned by my associate Easy_E1.

 

I'll keep those in mind when I go to the shop tomorrow morning. Is replacing that Microtech ignitor module easy and cost effective?

 

Charles, assuming it makes sense to just buy your product, what's the turnaround time to ship one to San Diego.

 

There are really two grounds using this system, they both should be checked and made sure the connections are clean and solid.

If the "normal" locations were used for these grounds:

First one is on the alternator bracket. Should be slightly behind and below the MicroTech box on a 10mm bolt.

2nd one is normally over on the car frame located between the battery and the airbox.

 

There are 20 kits available for sale and shipment on the week of 6/27.

 

update: Apparently it WASN'T a no spark situation, which was a surprise to me. They are getting spark, and the fuel pump is pumping fuel. It has been determined that the injectors are not firing. WTF?

 

Was hoping for some thoughts on the injector problem.....

 

Sorry, Davey, thought your question/concern was posted in one of our threads. I have been bouncing around the entire forum today.....

Any idea how it was determined that the injectors are not activating when commanded to do so?

Injectors typically won't fire if there is a problem with the e-shaft sensor but that would cause a similar problem with the spark, as well. Might be a slight chance that you have a bad ground for the injector harness but I am not the specific wiring expert around here.

How was the fuel pump determined to be working properly?

 

These should be some interesting answers we(or Mr. Hill) get back.

FYI................have you checked every fuse in the engine bay and in the cabin?
If not, get after that! Don't forget the 15A room fuse in the cabin of all things!

 

My tech said he disconnected the fuel line from the pump into a cannister so when they cranked the engine it pumped fuel into the cannister rather than towards the injectors.

As for the injectors, they said they put some sort of light down there, don't remember the details but it involved looking for a pulse?

I will mention the fuse issue to them tomorrow in the AM.

is it possible the fuel filter is clogged? Would Marvel Mystery Oil do that?

 

Fuses are fine. What cause the injectors to not fire while there is both fuel and spark?

 

Also considered the alarm system but two separate FOBs were used.

 

Update: Crank sensor ruled out. Really frustrating, trying to find a needle in a haystack.

Fuel getting to the injectors, spark is coming, injectors just not pulsing and no idea why.

 

I am sure we all understand your frustration.

I don't want to suggest the worst, but I hope there is nothing wrong with your PCM (like a bad injector driver circuit).

 

In the hopefully unlikely event there is, how could that possibly happen and short of dropping another one in, how could it be diagnosed?

 

Unfortunately, PCM failures are not all that rare around here. They are not common, but they ahve been known to happen.

Electronic failures are rarely gradual.

 

Ya know, I'm just catching back on this thread, but jeez, as I was reading from where I left off, I was quickly going down the PCM path. Looking at the electrical diagram(and I only did it quickly) seems like they fire right from the PCM with not much inbetween.

Was it confirmed than none of the injectors were firing?

Only think I can think of and it's a real long shot is to wiggle the PCM connectors around and see if by chance it makes a difference? Think if I was going to actually unplug the connectors at the PCM(just to inspect the contacts or clean them and then plug them back in), I would probably disconnect the battery first, just to be safe.


FYI...............the dealer would have the test setup to identify if it's the PCM or not......but it will cost you a diag fee.

 

Well I'll swing by in the AM and talk again. We know spark is firing and the fuel pump is providing fuel. I forget the technical term but a light was shown down on the injectors and there was no pulse so it was determined that's the problem but not why. I could take it to the dealer but I think my AAA is used up til October 1 and would prefer to avoid that if possible. I will mention checking the PCM connectors. Last time the PCM was touched was about 3 years ago when Racing Beat flashed it.

 

Is it possible to simple pull the PCM out directly and have it tested at the dealer out of the car or does it need to be in the car to be tested?

 

Just got a call and there is no spark again as well as no injector pulse. Will have him chek the ESS but maybe the Mazsport ignition is bad as well?

 

Problem isolated. The
Mazsport igniter box has something loose or unreliable. The coils themselves are fine but the box apparently has something loose inside. Now where to find a replacement part. Guys? No knock against the BHR system but I would prefer to avoid that cost and wait since I am paying for a rental right now.