0rph3n

shouldn't we notice rough idle and/or shouldn't the engine die at idle in this case?
my 8 idle rock solid and it have good torque in low/mid range rpm!

bse50

When an engine starts showing bad idle and acceleration is usually very low on compression or has irregular face to face or rotor - to rotor wear.

The truth is that the first engines here started failing before reaching 50.000kms for this reason. When they increased the OMP rates from the factory (around 2006 VINs here) the engines started lasting longer.
I'm afraid that, in your case, the damage is done. Any increase in the oil metering system will only work as a temporary solution. Lack of housing lubrication causes some bad wear...
You can notice it by sticking an optic fiber probe inside a spark plug hole

Dragonfooser

Forgive me for my ignorance, but can someone sum this up in layman's terms for me-- tell me what instructions to take to my mechanic to (hopefully) fix the problem?

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Which problem do you want him to fix? Because the overall problem so far I don't believe has had a permanent fix. With you having luck with seafoam you might want to start researching premixing solutions and see if that helps in the long run for you.

DHPrx8

lets us know if this helps! As long as I am using a bottle of Carb cleaner with gas noise is gone. I am planning on taking out the injectors and getting them cleaned as that is the only thing left. Just have not had the time or a nice weekend to remove and get them up to shop for cleaning.

Gas prices are killing me - paying $ 4.79 per gallon up here - plus the 5 bucks for the carb cleaner - dividing it all up paying about 5 dollars a gallon for gas. Just sucks.

stevep200sx

Ok folks, latest update after two-three more experiments. I mentioned that I went back to stock air filter and replaced the air box dividers - I've decided that it sounds more natural and I don't want any variables clouding my marbles in a can solution search.

Went to the dealer, got them to flush and bleed the coolent. Marbles in a can grittiness is gone at high RPMs, even after high temps of driving for three hours 2 times (work trip, there and back). I found it comforting and surprising that the marbles sound was gone. The dealer said I don't need the orifice and whether that's accurate, I'm starting to think that the marbles/sand in a blender sound really is bubbles in the coolent. After three hours of driving when the engine is at its hottest, the marbles sound was gone, but...

Power loss was still there on the highway in 5th and 6th gear and after the three hour drive, the idle was bad and power even in 1st gear or 2nd gear was horrible. I also noticed that the loss of power was accompanied by a weird intake sound, kind of like how a K&N air filter changes the intake sound note. After coming off the highway, the engine was visibly rattling and even the exhaust pipes were rattling a bit from the rough operation of the engine.

Therefore, I'm leaning toward the two problems that most of us have started to suspect: bubbles in coolent or coolent moving too quickly throughout the engine cause the marbles sound, and a dirty MAF / sticking SSV is causing a loss of power. Because of the over-filling potential and oil leak into the intake, it's very possible that a lot of people are experiencing these same to problems at the same time but they seem to be one problem. I'm going to finally take apart the intake piping and clean it properly since I've eliminated the coolent issue as being the whole problem. I'll report back once the intake is cleaned, and if that's not it, it would be time to look deeper into fuel deliver, carbon buildup, etc.

Mystykalbaby

i've gone through some of the same issues you descibed. this has been happening for almost a year now. new air filter, new gas cap. no dummy lights. the ruff idle or even stalling out as soon as clutch is pressed in. seems to only happen after highway driving and ac is on. if i cut ac off the car usually will not stall. seems like the load put on the engine too much. or that idle needs to be adjusted. i really dont have an unlimited budget for mazda to play guessing games with car and my wallet. the problem seems to only happen if its like plus 85 degrees out and after a highway drive.

Has anyone resolved this issue. i swear i love my car but this is making wish i purchased a wrx instead

BigJeff

Update:
Secondary fuel injectors were replaced -- no difference. Dealer replaced engine despite the fact that the original engine passed their compression and leak tests and also did a Zoom cleaning -- still no difference. Super techs returning in a few days to recommend next steps. The dealer's service manager thinks they'll replace intake manifold next....we'll see....

Manic Mechanic

Intake manifold is the next step on mine. The SSV and VDI valves are both loose in their bearings and make quite a knock if rattled.

MariesRX8

May not be related, but since you mentioned the clutch thing... clutch switch problem?

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/neutral-switch-133529/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-test-neutral-reverse-switch-200453/

Mentioned in https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=10

SauerKraut

I have an auto and have this problem as well. I doubt it's clutch related. I also replaced my intake manifold and SSV with no change. It's VERY upsetting to hear that replacing secondary injectors didnt help, nor replacing the entire engine....

Out of curiosity, what flash level are you guys running? Mine was in an accident and not driven from 2006-2010, I doubt it has a newer flash on it.

stevep200sx

Guys, here is my update after months of logic and a handful of bucks to the dealer. First thing, the marbles in a can sound IS IN FACT RELATED TO THE COOLANT. I don't know who said it first about it being bubbles in the coolant or there needing to be an orifice or something, and I still don't know which it is, but a coolant flush has 100 percent fixed the problem for me. Repeat, the marbles in a can, sand in a blender, MIAC sound, etc. etc. was cured by a coolant flush.

Secondly, my loss of power, horribly highway acceleration, rough idle, and a couple of other driveability issues were cured by a new catalytic converter. Apparently what happened was my O2 sensor went bad, didn't throw a light, but the mechanic diagnostic showed it wasn't operating properly. I don't know which came first, a bad Cat and then a bad O2 sensor, or the O2 sensor actually destroyed the Cat, but they replaced both and the car runs like a dream now.

My advice, if you're experiencing either of these problems, check these. Our cars have a horrible reputation regarding the cats. I found all this out of course, after changing plugs, wires, coils, etc., and it was obvious. A couple of hints about the cat: the cup holder was much hotter than it should be, and most obviously, so was the bracket/runner that holds the passenger seat to the floor of the car. It got so obvious that I could touch that metal and it's level of heat directly related to how poorly the car was running. I never saw a red-hot cat, but pretended I did to get the mechanic to check it and it was in fact bad. PM me if anyone has any questions but like I said, these were the solutions FOR ME. Good luck and trust me, if you can figure it out, it's worth it. My 04 runs like it's brand new.

Citrik

I planned on getting a coolant flush here soon anyways as my next step, as I have a feeling that a lot of my issues have to do with the cooling system. Now that I think back on it, and I'm not entirely sure since I had other crap going on with my car during the winter to pay too much attention, but I don't think I was having the acceleration issues while it was cold outside. Half the time there was snow on the ground so there really wasn't much opportunity for me to really test that theory, but I can say at least that since it's been hotter here...my issues start up almost immediately, whereas again I'm pretty sure that if I was even experiencing these issues at all in winter, it wasn't right away. So I wonder...

As far as replacing the cat, I don't even have a cat on my car and I still have the horrible acceleration, so I don't think that's my particular problem, though I am happy to hear that it worked out for you. I plan on getting a coolant flush in the next few weeks here, and I will post back with results and impressions as soon as I do.

bse50

Don't waste your money on a coolant flush before knowing what your compression is. A new engine requires new coolant anyway!
In your case it really looks like the usual engine compression issue, or the lack of an adequate ignition\fuelling system. Coils, and plugs have been mentioned a lot of times before, clogged injectors a bit less.

How much oil does your car burn?

SauerKraut

On the other hand, Bigjeff had his engine replaced and stil no improvment. I removed the stock cat and put on an exoticspeed high-flow 15k ago, so I dont think thats my problem there. However I will test out my 02 sensor, as well as get a flush

Manic Mechanic

Have any of you guys with the problem tried premixing?

I had a go at this a year ago with poor results, but since then I have changed a few bits on the car. I put 150ml of 2-stroke in the tank this week, I've only done 80 miles so it's a bit early to be conclusive but it feels a lot better.

SauerKraut

I havent premixed oil yet. However I can be experiencing this problem hardcore, pull into an advance auto for a bottle of injector fluid, pour it in, then BAM good as new.

Manic Mechanic

Yup, mine is/was the same. A bottle of Cataclean, octane booster or fuel system treatment made everything better, until the next tankful.

bse50

Injectors can be clogged so cleaning them is always a good idea. A proper injector cleaner could do the work, just stay away of the usual supermarket cleaners. The one I use is made by magigas, our race fuels distributor. At least we know it works. It costs 30€\lt without an endorsement though.

Catrol's 2t oil is just fine, unless it is the old "TTS". It wasn't ashless and killed many 2 stroke engines

I didn't mean to offend you anyway with my previous comments, it's just that when things might be bad we start spending money on useless parts even when the diagnosis is pretty clear.
An engine that ran for years with an older flash probably has seals that are worn in a bad way (uneven surface)... the main reason why such engines lose compression. The centre of the seal doesn't touch the housing et voilà.
Get another compression test done with your engine being very warm and your fuel not premixed, start from there (with printed results) and then see what happens.
Don't start spending money on parts that you probably won't need. Checking the oil nozzles requires just a couple of wrenches and a compressor...

Manic Mechanic

No worries, I have £60 of non-returnable fuel pressure damper in the garage that I probably don't need too

Mystykalbaby

UPDATE!!!!!
just clicked 106k on her and got that noise again and lose of power. Hot out about 92°f with 83% humidity. I was heading down interstate no traffic or nothing heavy. Car lost power. Down shifted and it made that weird Honda civic sound and died. Friend of mine was with me and was like that's it. Motor is toast. Nothing like getting towed of highway. The kicker is I just did new tires plugs and wires. I swear I'm beyond upset. I wish I had purchased the speed6 instead of Mazda experimental and unreliable renesis motor. This car has had so many gremlins I'm suprised the government hasnt had a class action filed. By time I'm done with this I'm sure I would have paid for a used dodge viper.

Mazda you get an epic fail from me. Way to give your most loyal buyers lemons.

DarkBrew

So I'll just put you down as undecided...

100K + miles and it needs a rebuild... This could happen with any used car you bought.
The 2004 cars (mine included) did not get enough oil injected under some conditions in early ECU code versions so the seals wear out earlier than they should... especially if they were driven nicely or had lots of highway miles... and especially in hot climates.
Needing a rebuild sucks but it doesn't make the car a lemon...
Inquire with some of the forum vendors and see what it will take to get you back on the road.
Also you might try Mazda... You're just outside of the 100K
Good luck and sorry for your troubles.

Dragonfooser

stevep200sx: How are the coolant flush and new catalytic converter holding up as a fix?

SauerKraut

Coolant flush for me has fixed all the wierd sounds from before MINUS the rasp in the higher rpm range. I'm going to be checking my o2 sensors next

Dragonfooser

I folded and traded my RX-8 for a 350Z. Thanks to everyone for the help in trying to figure out how to correct the issues.