Not beeping when i redline
#1
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Not beeping when i redline
Started to redline my car today in first gear, got to around 9.5k RPMs for a good 2-3 seconds, didnt beep once. Anyone have ideas? didnt see anything like this on the forums.
#5
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I dont usually take it up that high, i try to conserve as much gas as possible so i shift around 4.5k. wanted to redline it atleast once, and didnt beep, just want to know why.
#6
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
The buzzer is part of the insturment cluster's circuit board.
If it were a fuse, it would be the 15A ROOM fuse and nothing on the dash would work.
There is a diagnostics screen to test the buzzer:
1. Put the key in the ignition
2. Push and hold the odometer button
3. Turn the key to the 'ON' position (do not start the car)
4. Continue to hold the odometer button until 'test' appears in the lower right corner
5. Once 'test' appears, you can release the button
6. Now push (not hold) the odometer button to scroll through various numbered options
7. Stop when you reach the desired output (which is 14 for the buzzer)
8. After a full second the output signal should toggle (ex: light illuminates, gauge sweeps)
* Some have an on/off switch (ex: Buckle switch changes state when the seat belt is buckled)
9. To exit from the output diagnostic, simply turn the key to the 'off' position and back on.
If it were a fuse, it would be the 15A ROOM fuse and nothing on the dash would work.
There is a diagnostics screen to test the buzzer:
1. Put the key in the ignition
2. Push and hold the odometer button
3. Turn the key to the 'ON' position (do not start the car)
4. Continue to hold the odometer button until 'test' appears in the lower right corner
5. Once 'test' appears, you can release the button
6. Now push (not hold) the odometer button to scroll through various numbered options
7. Stop when you reach the desired output (which is 14 for the buzzer)
8. After a full second the output signal should toggle (ex: light illuminates, gauge sweeps)
* Some have an on/off switch (ex: Buckle switch changes state when the seat belt is buckled)
9. To exit from the output diagnostic, simply turn the key to the 'off' position and back on.
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
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Going to bump this thread saying that I have the same problem, and diags for the buzzer *do* work.
I have a 40th Anniversary edition if it matters - dunno if they didn't have the buzzer or not.
I have a 40th Anniversary edition if it matters - dunno if they didn't have the buzzer or not.
#16
Voids warranties
#17
This week at a track day I hit the fuel cutoff a few times and realised I was not hearing the beep. Never had this problem before and did take my helmet off to check. Yes still get beeps for not leaving keys in etc. Has anybody actually fixed this issue?
#19
#21
#22
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
there was a reason the Formula Pro Mazda racecars with Renesis engines were recommended to not exceed about 8600 rpm. Those were also fully hand blueprinted engines with micro-balanced rotating assemblies, RX7 depth Iannetti ceramic apex seals, oil system modifications, and so on.
As indicated by many dyno graphs, most Renesis engines will make peak power in the lower 8000 rpm range, it falls off pretty quick after that. It doesn’t feel like it, but it does. Not only are you going slower, but the rotor seals are seeing highly accelerated wear. Which in turn is less and less power output over time.
Can you afford a new engine annually for ensuring the highest output? Kind of doubting it.
reduce weight, lower gearing either by differential or tire OD, a shorter ratio transmission, a properly built engine outputting the true Renesis potential; not really possible to say without knowing what ruleset and finances you’re working with. Otherwise it has a staged intake for a reason assuming the engine condition isn’t the issue. If it’s only making 180 whp then revving it out is kind of moot.
.
As indicated by many dyno graphs, most Renesis engines will make peak power in the lower 8000 rpm range, it falls off pretty quick after that. It doesn’t feel like it, but it does. Not only are you going slower, but the rotor seals are seeing highly accelerated wear. Which in turn is less and less power output over time.
Can you afford a new engine annually for ensuring the highest output? Kind of doubting it.
reduce weight, lower gearing either by differential or tire OD, a shorter ratio transmission, a properly built engine outputting the true Renesis potential; not really possible to say without knowing what ruleset and finances you’re working with. Otherwise it has a staged intake for a reason assuming the engine condition isn’t the issue. If it’s only making 180 whp then revving it out is kind of moot.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 05-21-2022 at 02:26 AM.
#23
Thanks appreciate the reply. In Oz we run a RX8 cup series which is a budget race series running standard S1 with the main mods being suspension, tyres, clutch, brakes. Running the normal about 12 minute races the group has never had a significant engine failure, more like often transmission, fuel, or electrical. Ric Shaw recently did the Bathurst 6hr in an RX8 cup car without any issues apart from some pom hitting the kill switch by accident. Depends on tracks whether it is better holding a gear at high RPM or shifting up to get best time. No not planning on a rebuild for a few years as they cost about 8-10k down here and I only paid 5900 for the car, plus about 3k for suspension, clutch and brakes. Anyway cutting to the chase any idea why I am not getting the beep?
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