Odd problem - Starter Solonoid perhaps?
10-22-2012, 02:33 PM
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Odd problem - Starter Solonoid perhaps?
I've been having a strange problem off and on for the last month or so, and before I take it into a dealer to look at 'everything', I thought perhaps someone might be able to help narrow down my issue to one or two things I can have them check.
Issue:
Sometimes I go to start the car and when I turn the key, the starter does not crank. It's exactly like a dead battery, no sound, but the battery is not dead. In fact the AC fan goes on, all lights and dash are ok. I do notice that the first time I turn the key, all my gauges sort of go a little haywire and bounce left/right a few times as if my dash had some sort of major electrical fault. If I give it a second and turn the key a 2nd time, the dash and all electronic parts work as normal, no odd behaviour, but still no starter cranking.
If I then let the car sit for about 2-5 minutes , with the key in the ignition and try it again, it starts up just fine. Of course DSC and Traction control lights stay on, indicating that it must have lost power, but my clock is just fine so I'm not sure if power actually was cut at any point. Once i reset DSC and Traction control, I'm all set.. as if nothing was ever an issue. It starts up on the first or 2nd 'crank' of the engine, so I don't believe the starter is an issue (but I could be wrong).
It will be fine for weeks, then out of the blue... wham.. no crank again.
Someone I know mentioned that it could be a Starter Solonoid? I had a "Valve Solonoid" last replaced about a year ago when the check engine light came on, so I'm thinking wouldn't that light also come on for this solonoid?
I've already done the battery testing/cleaning etc... that usually is the cause of starting issues, but of course the battery is fine.
Anyone seen something like this before and have a clue where I should point the dealer (or other repair place, haven't decided yet).
Issue:
Sometimes I go to start the car and when I turn the key, the starter does not crank. It's exactly like a dead battery, no sound, but the battery is not dead. In fact the AC fan goes on, all lights and dash are ok. I do notice that the first time I turn the key, all my gauges sort of go a little haywire and bounce left/right a few times as if my dash had some sort of major electrical fault. If I give it a second and turn the key a 2nd time, the dash and all electronic parts work as normal, no odd behaviour, but still no starter cranking.
If I then let the car sit for about 2-5 minutes , with the key in the ignition and try it again, it starts up just fine. Of course DSC and Traction control lights stay on, indicating that it must have lost power, but my clock is just fine so I'm not sure if power actually was cut at any point. Once i reset DSC and Traction control, I'm all set.. as if nothing was ever an issue. It starts up on the first or 2nd 'crank' of the engine, so I don't believe the starter is an issue (but I could be wrong).
It will be fine for weeks, then out of the blue... wham.. no crank again.
Someone I know mentioned that it could be a Starter Solonoid? I had a "Valve Solonoid" last replaced about a year ago when the check engine light came on, so I'm thinking wouldn't that light also come on for this solonoid?
I've already done the battery testing/cleaning etc... that usually is the cause of starting issues, but of course the battery is fine.
Anyone seen something like this before and have a clue where I should point the dealer (or other repair place, haven't decided yet).
10-22-2012, 02:38 PM
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It's a grounding problem.
Gauge cluster flickering/going crazy is always a grounding problem. In nearly every case it is the battery connections, though other grounding points are possible as well.
The voltage is unstable due to the poor connection, and it messes with the sensitivity of the voltage that the gauges are looking for. It's enough of a connection to allow current to flow off the battery as long as the load remains low, but the draw from the starter is far too much.
The very cheap and easy solution is to re-visit those battery terminals. Disconnect negative then positive. Clean both terminals and both clamps VERY VERY thoroughly. When you reconnect, wiggle the clamp on the terminal back and forth as you tighten the nut to make sure that it seats as securely as possibly.
Most of the corrosion that causes this is between the post and the clamp, and you have to remove them to properly clean them, and it isn't a smooth surface for either the clamp or the post any more, and you want as solid of a grip as possible.
If it STILL does it, then start checking other main battery grounds.
Gauge cluster flickering/going crazy is always a grounding problem. In nearly every case it is the battery connections, though other grounding points are possible as well.
The voltage is unstable due to the poor connection, and it messes with the sensitivity of the voltage that the gauges are looking for. It's enough of a connection to allow current to flow off the battery as long as the load remains low, but the draw from the starter is far too much.
The very cheap and easy solution is to re-visit those battery terminals. Disconnect negative then positive. Clean both terminals and both clamps VERY VERY thoroughly. When you reconnect, wiggle the clamp on the terminal back and forth as you tighten the nut to make sure that it seats as securely as possibly.
Most of the corrosion that causes this is between the post and the clamp, and you have to remove them to properly clean them, and it isn't a smooth surface for either the clamp or the post any more, and you want as solid of a grip as possible.
If it STILL does it, then start checking other main battery grounds.
10-23-2012, 05:48 PM
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It's a grounding problem.
Gauge cluster flickering/going crazy is always a grounding problem. In nearly every case it is the battery connections, though other grounding points are possible as well.
The voltage is unstable due to the poor connection, and it messes with the sensitivity of the voltage that the gauges are looking for. It's enough of a connection to allow current to flow off the battery as long as the load remains low, but the draw from the starter is far too much.
The very cheap and easy solution is to re-visit those battery terminals. Disconnect negative then positive. Clean both terminals and both clamps VERY VERY thoroughly. When you reconnect, wiggle the clamp on the terminal back and forth as you tighten the nut to make sure that it seats as securely as possibly.
Most of the corrosion that causes this is between the post and the clamp, and you have to remove them to properly clean them, and it isn't a smooth surface for either the clamp or the post any more, and you want as solid of a grip as possible.
If it STILL does it, then start checking other main battery grounds.
Gauge cluster flickering/going crazy is always a grounding problem. In nearly every case it is the battery connections, though other grounding points are possible as well.
The voltage is unstable due to the poor connection, and it messes with the sensitivity of the voltage that the gauges are looking for. It's enough of a connection to allow current to flow off the battery as long as the load remains low, but the draw from the starter is far too much.
The very cheap and easy solution is to re-visit those battery terminals. Disconnect negative then positive. Clean both terminals and both clamps VERY VERY thoroughly. When you reconnect, wiggle the clamp on the terminal back and forth as you tighten the nut to make sure that it seats as securely as possibly.
Most of the corrosion that causes this is between the post and the clamp, and you have to remove them to properly clean them, and it isn't a smooth surface for either the clamp or the post any more, and you want as solid of a grip as possible.
If it STILL does it, then start checking other main battery grounds.
I'll be so glad if this doesn't require a trip to the dealer!
10-23-2012, 05:51 PM
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Very few fixes involve a trip to the dealer 
And usually the dealer will throw expensive parts at the problem without really bothering to diagnose it, which wastes everyone's time and money.
And usually the dealer will throw expensive parts at the problem without really bothering to diagnose it, which wastes everyone's time and money.
10-26-2012, 10:46 AM
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I'm having a similar problem. I've been having hard starts lately but my engine isnt flooded or anything. Everything turns on and it cranks, sometimes it just takes a painfully long time to turn over finally. Today though, I go to leave for class and everything turns on, it starts to crank and slowly dies...almost like the starter gave out? I'm charging the battery right now because it also felt like it didnt have enough juice so we'll see if thats it. I'm more concerned that it's actually the starter going out. I'm at about 40k miles.
10-30-2012, 10:42 AM
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^Make sure that everything is installed correctly. Next thing I would check the starter and cat. If these look fine it might be a time for a compression test. Does your car start harder when warmed up? Have you felt any loss of power?
10-31-2012, 03:38 PM
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no loss of power that is noticeable. The hard starts have stopped completely so far. I've never had any problems with a warm hard start (maybe one time but it was forgettable). I still might look into the condition of the starter because I think it could be doing a better job. Any idea what the life expectancy of a Mazda Started is?
11-01-2012, 08:34 PM
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my car is an 08...i cleaned the battery posts before putting the new one in...havent had any trouble since. Lesson learned: don't trust Jensen Tire when they say your battery is at 98% power.
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