Odd Problems. lights and buttons n trans lurch[$20 to whoever leads me to fix]
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Odd Problems. lights and buttons n trans lurch[$20 to whoever leads me to fix]
I cant for the life of me figure this out after a weekend of trying.
Ive checked ALL OF THE FUSES.
BUTTONS: neither of the trunk open buttons work (drivers one or glove compt) the DSC button doesnt work or light up.
I HAVE checked the fuses, but where would the one specifically for that be?
LIGHTS: On the guage cluster (after resetting the ecu) after bout 30 seconds of driving the Traction control light(not DSC), abs light, and ebrake light all come on at the exact same time.
checked the fuses
all tires are same and same pressure
all sensors are connected
did reset and dsc reset.
Will pay 20$ for whoever can tell me how to fix this:
the transmission seems abnormally lurtchy. like the smallest little change of throttle will make it lurch (clutch fully out). I have a .mov vid clip that Ill see if I can upload. (engine mounts are fine, and its mostly in first n second)
If anyone leads me to a sucessful fix Im willing to toss $20 their way as a thanks!!
Ive checked ALL OF THE FUSES.
BUTTONS: neither of the trunk open buttons work (drivers one or glove compt) the DSC button doesnt work or light up.
I HAVE checked the fuses, but where would the one specifically for that be?
LIGHTS: On the guage cluster (after resetting the ecu) after bout 30 seconds of driving the Traction control light(not DSC), abs light, and ebrake light all come on at the exact same time.
checked the fuses
all tires are same and same pressure
all sensors are connected
did reset and dsc reset.
Will pay 20$ for whoever can tell me how to fix this:
the transmission seems abnormally lurtchy. like the smallest little change of throttle will make it lurch (clutch fully out). I have a .mov vid clip that Ill see if I can upload. (engine mounts are fine, and its mostly in first n second)
If anyone leads me to a sucessful fix Im willing to toss $20 their way as a thanks!!
Last edited by bren5279; 04-04-2011 at 10:51 AM.
#2
Time for boost...
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I'm not quite sure what you mean about a lurch. If by that, you mean that going from first to second, the transition is not smooth, then I do believe that's normal.
A video may help
Have you checked your fluid? Is it happening in any other gears?
Now, for the light issue. How did you check to see if all fuses work? Try swithching some out with others.... Could be a loose connection somewhere? Have you had your battery tested? I was having an electrical issue, and once I changed the battery, haven't had the issue since.
Good luck
A video may help
Have you checked your fluid? Is it happening in any other gears?
Now, for the light issue. How did you check to see if all fuses work? Try swithching some out with others.... Could be a loose connection somewhere? Have you had your battery tested? I was having an electrical issue, and once I changed the battery, haven't had the issue since.
Good luck
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I'm not quite sure what you mean about a lurch. If by that, you mean that going from first to second, the transition is not smooth, then I do believe that's normal.
A video may help
Have you checked your fluid? Is it happening in any other gears?
Now, for the light issue. How did you check to see if all fuses work? Try swithching some out with others.... Could be a loose connection somewhere? Have you had your battery tested? I was having an electrical issue, and once I changed the battery, haven't had the issue since.
Good luck
A video may help
Have you checked your fluid? Is it happening in any other gears?
Now, for the light issue. How did you check to see if all fuses work? Try swithching some out with others.... Could be a loose connection somewhere? Have you had your battery tested? I was having an electrical issue, and once I changed the battery, haven't had the issue since.
Good luck
Lurching as in NOT SHIFTING AT ALL, clutch all the way out, only one foot on the gas. like when youre on a street bike where you let off the gas really fast. or blip it while going slow. where it jerks forward. Ill try and get the vid up,, how do I upload .mov files?
Checked all fuses, tires are same at same pressure, all connectors are connected, all correct directional.
changing your battery probably just reset your ecu... my batts brand new.
Last edited by bren5279; 04-04-2011 at 10:52 AM.
#4
dsc/abs means one of your abs sensors in the wheel is bad (usually), but since the ebrake light is also on, it makes me wonder....have you tried pulling to see if there is a code, even without a cel?
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my checker did but I didnt have the licence to read the code yet : /
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I kinda figured that, but where the heck would it be.... I have an entire cars worth of a wire harness that it could be in... would there be any way to narrow it down? like would the radio and the dash be the only places?
#8
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You do know the button in the glove compartment is a cancel button, not an opener?!
For the truck to open (with the driver's side button or the keyless entry) the cancel switch (in the glove comp) has to be closed.
Use a meter to verify the switch isn't open.
There is also a relay for the truck opener to the left side of the clutch pedal.
Start be verifying voltage to and from the relay.
Use the search to get you started.
When I performed a search, I got a few different results including a corroded power steering connector.
For the truck to open (with the driver's side button or the keyless entry) the cancel switch (in the glove comp) has to be closed.
Use a meter to verify the switch isn't open.
There is also a relay for the truck opener to the left side of the clutch pedal.
Start be verifying voltage to and from the relay.
When I performed a search, I got a few different results including a corroded power steering connector.
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You do know the button in the glove compartment is a cancel button, not an opener?!
For the truck to open (with the driver's side button or the keyless entry) the cancel switch (in the glove comp) has to be closed.
Use a meter to verify the switch isn't open.
There is also a relay for the truck opener to the left side of the clutch pedal.
Start be verifying voltage to and from the relay.
Use the search to get you started.
When I performed a search, I got a few different results including a corroded power steering connector.
For the truck to open (with the driver's side button or the keyless entry) the cancel switch (in the glove comp) has to be closed.
Use a meter to verify the switch isn't open.
There is also a relay for the truck opener to the left side of the clutch pedal.
Start be verifying voltage to and from the relay.
Use the search to get you started.
When I performed a search, I got a few different results including a corroded power steering connector.
Yeah I did a search after posting it and got a good idea on the lights.
Still NO CLUE on the whole trans lurching thing..... thats the one Im really concerned about.
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Ok so here is a video (poor quality sorry) of the lurtching and the what I believe is the runout bearing.... (is that right?)
THAT IS WITH ALMOST NO MOVEMENT ON THE GAS PETAL AT ALL!!!!
I would say about .5mm to 1mm movement just barely enough to change the throttle, NOT taking my foot off the gas or stepping on the gas...
![](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O76juB3NHr0)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O76juB3NHr0
THAT IS WITH ALMOST NO MOVEMENT ON THE GAS PETAL AT ALL!!!!
I would say about .5mm to 1mm movement just barely enough to change the throttle, NOT taking my foot off the gas or stepping on the gas...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O76juB3NHr0
#13
Grasshopper
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![Uhh](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/uhh.gif)
No such thing as a "runout bearing"... bearings, in general, have certain runout measurements and tolerances.
But no bearing is actually called "runout"
Are you in 1st gear in that video?
If so, I can definitely see the car lurching at those speeds because 1st is geared high.
And just to clarify... the clutch is engaged at this point... right?
#14
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low gear especially 1st gear will make the car jerk back and forth when you get on and off gas. sometimes it can create an oscillation jerking back and forth. thats just part of driving a manual.
also the shift **** moves when you on and off gas is normal.
since you ride a motorcycle you probably have felt the same effect on a motorcycle. cept the R6 has much taller 1st gear(6xmph @ redline), and smaller engine makes the engine braking effect less noticeable but its there.
also the shift **** moves when you on and off gas is normal.
since you ride a motorcycle you probably have felt the same effect on a motorcycle. cept the R6 has much taller 1st gear(6xmph @ redline), and smaller engine makes the engine braking effect less noticeable but its there.
Last edited by jasonrxeight; 04-05-2011 at 06:33 PM.
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r not runout, I meant throwout bearing - it only does it when the clutch petal is released. sitting in neutral its really really noticable.
No that was in 2nd clutch all the way out, no clutching involved at all. and that was with excessive gas petal control (like being rediculously careful, smooth and slow as to not push it quickly)
Its like its impossible to drive below 30 and hold the speed without it doing that.
No that was in 2nd clutch all the way out, no clutching involved at all. and that was with excessive gas petal control (like being rediculously careful, smooth and slow as to not push it quickly)
Its like its impossible to drive below 30 and hold the speed without it doing that.
![Crying](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/crying.gif)
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Just in case anyone in the future is looking for the answers to these problems, here is what I figured out:
The trans lurch: something was loose in the gas petal, fixed and learned to be a bit more sensitive with the gas, mostly better. But somone who tried it just said it feels a little jumpy, so its all throttle control past that. I would still like to find a way to tweak the trans to make it a bit less jumpy but idk if thats possible??
The 3 lights: Out of alignment and turns out that one of the front tires actually was different afterall and I was told otherwise by the person who checked on it for me : /
Dsc button: Havent gotten to it yet but I think its the actual button itself, have a replacement one I just need to get to swapping them out.
The trans lurch: something was loose in the gas petal, fixed and learned to be a bit more sensitive with the gas, mostly better. But somone who tried it just said it feels a little jumpy, so its all throttle control past that. I would still like to find a way to tweak the trans to make it a bit less jumpy but idk if thats possible??
The 3 lights: Out of alignment and turns out that one of the front tires actually was different afterall and I was told otherwise by the person who checked on it for me : /
Dsc button: Havent gotten to it yet but I think its the actual button itself, have a replacement one I just need to get to swapping them out.
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