Huey52

iTrader: (2)

That's the one. Overall it's not very difficult, although as BHR aptly cites in their well written instructions it does "require some patience" when ultimately siting the coil plate on the factory bracket (it fits fine, just a little tight maneuvering it into place).

It's best to disconnect the factory airbox and flex duct and maneuver it out of the way just to gain some room to work, but you need not actually remove the intake.

Basically all you need is a Phillip's head screwdriver for the duct clamps and a 10mm deep socket with extension (wobble or universal joint also good) for the stock coil removal and kit plate attachment and also grounding stud.

I also find it's easier to jack/stand and remove the front left wheel to gain straight-in access to the sparkplugs for the cable routing/attachment, but you can reach from above if slender build.

See my pictures in this thread page: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/bhr-ignition-system-does-work-174414/page8/

RX-Nut

Argh.. ok, so LF and RF motor mounts are broken.. apparently there is a a right bracket that I need to get cause they dont do the old style (bracket is $444!). in addition, they will decarb for free (ooh).. but the coils are indeed bad.. they will replace the whole kit and kaboodle, coils, plugs, cables..

GRR.. and then only then after all is fixed they say they can get a compression reading. they say they cant get one while the car is running like crap as it is..

but in the meantime, he tells me.. get all your oil chg receipts in order.. he's seen enough of these to know it may end up in new engine group.

total ticket. $1915. craap.

alz0rz

iTrader: (41)

The compression test they run is NOT affected in the least by the ignition system.. what a bunch of liars. You could run a compression test on a motor with no plugs (cap the holes off course) or whatever on it...

Tell them you will replace coils/plugs/wires yourself, since it's time anyway. You can buy all the parts for $250 and either do it yourself for free, or have a competent mechanic do it for alot less.

RX-Nut

yea, they claimed they could only do it on a engine that was running well, its some special barometric doohickey... i told them, thats not what I was told about compression checks.. they dont believe me. sad.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

If it was coils/plugs etc., and you drove it for 10 miles that way, your cat is probably on it's last leg or already shot at this point. The dealer can test the cat, and it is covered under the extended emissions warranty. But, one thing at a time.

RX-Nut

thx for that info! I will have them check that too.

RX-Nut

ok so I dont know what this means but they say my compression tests came back passed.. here are the numbers they rattled to be..

KOEO = 3.83
Idle = 1.73

Not sure if thats the right terms .. but those were the numbers given. some barometric hububb.. they claim anything near 2.0 for KOEO is new engine time...

Can anyone decipher this?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I know they do vacuum test. but ...

they never told u what was the compression number ?

RX-Nut

those were their numbers.. i had nothing to base it off of so I just said ok, they said it passed!

MrBuddhalicious

i was told the optimal compression was near 7ish. i had the same problem, resulted in a new motor. all 4 foils were burnt out. one spark plug was completely gone. o compression in one rotor and 1. something in the other rotor. maybe they can save it. however they tried a de-carb which didn't work. oh, they did these before testing compression. the dealer i took it to were a**holes about it and said I couldn't get the new motor under factory warranty. took it from them and took it to a different dealership. gave them oil receipts, 2 days later, approved for new motor under warranty, got her back 6 days later running stronger and faster!! good luck on this man i went 4 months without my baby because of that fist dealership.