Tank is at 3/4. I tried syphoning it and the pump line wouldn't fit past the bend in the gas line. I replaced the entire pump assembly

 

Talk about the blind leading the blind

Look, it's simple if the info you provided is correct.

1. You're not doing something right.
2. The pump ground wiring circuit is not complete.
3. You received a brand new pump that is bad.

Did you try to bench run either pump directly to see if they actually work or not?

 

That would be why I asked if there was something I might have missed out on. I'm not trying to be a wise *** or anything by any means.

I doubt I received a new pump that was bad, the OEM pump was doing the same thing. I mean it IS possible, but wouldn't it be unlikely that two pumps are bad?

How would it be possible to check the ground on the pump? Just run a wire from the ground pin to the neg terminal on the battery?

 

Check ground by measuring resistance to either a chassis ground, or (the preferred method) to the battery using a jumper. I'm starting to think its the condenser because that's all that's left. You can also try powering the pump in place with either some long leads or a portable 12 volt battery like a drill power pack. Oh and check the pump for continuity too.

 

Heres the readout at the harness:

 

Ok now you need to either bench test or put power on the pump in the vehicle. That way we can be sure what side the problem is on.

 

Did anybody else notice in the first picture the voltmeter was reading 12.1 mV. In my book that's damn near zero. Granted I haven't done any fuel pump work on my car yet so I'm not sure what your looking for at that point on the connector.

 

I didn't notice that, but now we're getting somewhere. How did you measure voltage? Did you use the fuse box jumper? The car will only run the pump under certain circumstances as previously discussed.

 

Id skip the electrical and listening. Check your fuel pressure.

 

Subbed just for the sake of seeing where this ends.

 

I'm not trying to be a wise *** either, it's just typical on a forum for people to start chiming in with not well thought out advice/directions

showing a pic and a reading means nothing without also explaining which wire in the diagram you are measuring ...

so on top of the first sentence above, trying to get the correct info explained in the correct context from the person in need of assistance is near impossible sometimes ... then add in all the other BS and it becomes frustrating fast. So yes, you have to measure Volts not mV (1mV =0.001 Volt)

The logical process is to start at where the power source supply comes in on the wiring schematic and then work your way to the pump. However, that assumes you checked fuel pressure or actual flow out of the pump first and also bench testing the pump to see if it actually works or not when you put 12V directly to it. If you bench test it then precautions have to be made to make sure you don't cause a spark and have gasoline fumes or liquid ignite.

 

Measuring terminals B - C and B - A. I didn't intentionally set it to measure mV, it defaulted to that on its own for that measurement.

Electrical on cars has never been my expertise, So this will probably kill some trolls out there who would rather see drama than something positive, but I'm taking it to Pettit Monday. Lack of tools and an adequate workspace makes this a bit harder than it should be.

 

In this case 12mv is effectively 0. Were you measuring the voltages with the key in the 'On' position? If you weren't them you need to our else it won't send power to that harness.

Starting with the fuel fuse and fuel relays, pull components out ONE AT A TIME and check voltage against the chassis as a ground. For the fuse 1 of 2 pins should read 12v. For each of the relays 2 of 4 pins should read 12v. Them move on to the fuel pump harness, measure the voltage of each of the 4 contacts with the multimeter ground (black wire) attached to some bare metal on the car body. At least one should be 8-12v (of it's lower than that after doing all the rest, then it's most likely your resistor.

 

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The fuel pump doesn't run the whole time the ignition is on unless the car is running. That's the tricky part. You need to force it to run to check power to the pump or a zero volts reading is meaningless.
Also you can bypass the resistor with a piece of wire and test it that way.

 

Great point! Switching from off to on right as the reading is being taken should work, it might take two people though.

 

Just talked to Cam at Pettit, problem ended up being the resistor. He says it runs fine now. Weird thing was, he said he measured it and it measured within spec, but when he swapped a new one on there it fired right up.

 

Glad you got it fixed though

 

I checked the resistor, and so did cam, its weird how it would act that way, and the readings not show it for both of us...but I'm not complaining, the cars fixed and I get to pick her up tomorrow..I'm just not looking forward to that two hour drive to Pettit Racing, then again, I guess I should be glad they are within driving distance!

I'll update some more tomorrow after I get her back.

 

Well I apologize for not following the thread closely in detail. I jumped in later and missed a lot of info on the previous page.

When you checked the resistor previously it was out of spec. You also overlooked that the voltage reading at the pump was mV, which is basically zero. The thing to do was to unplug the resistor and jumper the two wiring harness connector pins together. This would create a direct voltage bypass of the resistor and you would have then seen full voltage at the pump, indicating the resistor as the problem.

The same should be done for relays etc. to eliminate the possibilities of failed components. This is what I was attempting to communicate to you at the beginning of the thread when I posted the fuel pump wiring flow schematic. Again, the best lessons are the frustrating ones where you learn the hard way. You'll now have a better understanding going forward.

 

Well heres an interesting and annoying update!

I currently reside in Orlando, My ride arrives at 7:00 A.M. to take me down to West Palm Beach to Pettit, to pick up the eight. I get there, talk to Cam, pay my bill, get in the car, and prepare to start my two and a half hour journey back up to Orlando.

Car gets about three miles down the road, and bam. Same problem starts again, car just dies abruptly. Back to square one. Cranks and will not start. So I call a tow truck and use tow 2/4 of my AAA membership and have it carted back to Pettit. Car gets unloaded, Cam said he was to busy to get to it today, so I ride back up to Orlando another two and a half hours.

I'm mildly annoyed at the situation, making the drive there and back for absolutely nothing except wasting a AAA tow. Cam apologized, and I don't think its his fault, cars are cars. so the waiting game starts again while the root of this problem gets looked into.

If anyone has any insight feel free to chime in. I'll update more when I hear from Pettit, probably next week if I had to guess.

 

This is why no one else works on my car, I'd rather figure it out myself even if it takes forever.

 

Wait you paid him to fix a problem that he claimed to have fixed but didn't, leading you back to square one and refusing to take your car bc he was "too busy"?

And only giving you an apology? Just making sure I understand, because that some horrible customer service, not to mention costing you a chunk of time and cash, from a pretty reputable company.

QFT^^ Unless its something like an engine rebuild, I'd rather work on my car myself even then I'm still pretty weary of who touches my stuff.

 

When the car got back to Pettit he mentioned he wouldn't be able to get to it today, so I left the car there and headed back up to Orlando, as my ride down to Pettit had to be back in town by late afternoon. He didn't refuse to take it. I imagine as busy as Pettit gets he just had a schedule of cars to work on that day.

It still just sucks that i wasted all that time and money going down there to have the car break down for the same thing three miles up the road. Cars are just cars I guess, things happen. I may hear something by tomorrow, but I think its safe to assume next week.

 

Ehh I think if he took payment from you, its assumed that he would have atleast test drove the car for a bit to make sure the problem was fixed properly.

Rather than having you take delivery and then having the car leaving you stranded. Anyways hope you get it sorted out.

 

Just heard from Cam at Pettit today. Most of the details i'll spare, pending the outcome.

Anyway, He just got to working on my car today. Turns out he said the car is now blowing two EGI fuses. I'm no expert in electrical on cars, but I am at a complete loss as to how when it went in Monday (of last week), he changed the resistor out on the passenger strut tower below the airpump, and it ran fine.


Well, fine enough to get me 2.7 miles up the road after I picked it up that following Thursday, Then broke down again, same symptoms, Crank, no start.

Had it towed back right away , now today when he called me, like I said he told me its blowing two EGI fuses. Has anyone ever heard of anything similar to this happening on their car before? I've never had a single problem out of this car electrical wise in the fourteen months i've owned it. Any suggestions or possible things to start trouble shooting?