Overheating!
#326
Registered
iTrader: (3)
yep---currently i have been working on this. i lot of the battery heat is being transferred form the radiator hoses that run all around it. Under the botton, the left side and in front!! it is not bad until you 1- park or get stuck in stop and go----no air flow right?
solutions ---move the battery or insulate the hoses around the battery. Take the top of the battery box off. Insulate the bottom of the battery box(will not help that much) and you can buy a battery wrap heat barrier from Summit racing.
OD
solutions ---move the battery or insulate the hoses around the battery. Take the top of the battery box off. Insulate the bottom of the battery box(will not help that much) and you can buy a battery wrap heat barrier from Summit racing.
OD
#328
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
*sigh*
Its just sad that we have to do what Mazda should've done in the first place.
Hmm, I can probably get some of those "heat insulator" from Home depot for 1/2 or less the price. Gonna see if I have the time to go check it out today.
Need to get a battery quick, wow, I just crank my car it was like soooo slow that it barely barely turned over, while cranking, I think it drain the power so much that it actually reset the DSC function and I have to turn the steering wheel left & right again.
Its just sad that we have to do what Mazda should've done in the first place.
Hmm, I can probably get some of those "heat insulator" from Home depot for 1/2 or less the price. Gonna see if I have the time to go check it out today.
Need to get a battery quick, wow, I just crank my car it was like soooo slow that it barely barely turned over, while cranking, I think it drain the power so much that it actually reset the DSC function and I have to turn the steering wheel left & right again.
#329
Argh. my battery got killed by the heat ! Well not quite sure about that as stock Mazda battery suck *** anyway. 08/05/2008 will be its 2nd yr servicing my car. yep, the battery isnt even 2 yrs ago and its already dead Trying to see which brand to go for. probably Optima ? or Just go cheap and get Duralast from Autozone.
see what happens.
see what happens.
optima, then relocate it into the trunk using the summitracing $100 1 gauge kit. Problem solved, and gives you a ton of space under the hood to work with.
#330
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
Im just gonna see if I can direct some colder air into the box + insulate it with some warp around the box or something.
oh, do u recommend the Red Top or Yellow Top ?
one of the pepboys has both in stock. 160 for red, 200 for yellow. yeah cost more than summit, but after tax is about the same as summit + shipping + tax. (Damn I hate that new NYS taxing internet thing, NYS is the most greediest government, trying to tax everythin they could then they will just spend it on useless ****, I hope Amazon wins the case)
I probably not gonna have any aftermarket sub/speakers cuz I like to enjoy good quality music @ home more than when Im driving. but I dunno, maybe a good idea to have more Reserve Capacity ? stronger starting power?
Last edited by nycgps; 07-20-2008 at 09:53 AM.
#331
2005 Ti Gray RX-8 - SOLD
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Get the red top then if starting the motor is your only priority.... I have a yellow, but I have a CarPc and a bunch of other peripherals that benefit from the longer running time without the car running. Yellow top is 44 pounds, stock is 22 pounds...keep that in mind. Red should be less than 44....
#332
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
I thought stock is 37 lbs ?
and I think the Red top is 33.1lbs and yellow is 36.7, or the other way around ?
nm, found it, yep its 33.1 lbs for red, and 36.5 for yellow
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi..._35_082304.pdf
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...D35_082104.pdf
and I think the Red top is 33.1lbs and yellow is 36.7, or the other way around ?
nm, found it, yep its 33.1 lbs for red, and 36.5 for yellow
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi..._35_082304.pdf
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...D35_082104.pdf
#334
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
random question: how much distilled water is needed when putting a new rad on?
Yes, I'm lazy and don't feel like checking the manual.
Yes, I'm lazy and don't feel like checking the manual.
#336
Funny but I'm on my third battery. First one(stock) lasted about 18 months and the next one lasted about 6 months. Just got a new one from the dealer 2 months ago, free with warranty. But here in AZ batteries just don't last due to the heat.
#337
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
I have been saying that for a while now.
Funny but I'm on my third battery. First one(stock) lasted about 18 months and the next one lasted about 6 months. Just got a new one from the dealer 2 months ago, free with warranty. But here in AZ batteries just don't last due to the heat.
Funny but I'm on my third battery. First one(stock) lasted about 18 months and the next one lasted about 6 months. Just got a new one from the dealer 2 months ago, free with warranty. But here in AZ batteries just don't last due to the heat.
According to my NAV's ACC voltage read function. Its reading as 10.8 Volt when engine not running. Im freaking surprise that it can start the car (but all stuff reset, too low power, and I crank it like 6-7 seconds b4 it starts)
Now Optima, 13.2 when engine is out, same as spec.
with engine running, Alternator putting out 14.2-14.4 most of the time. pretty good. so yes, the battery suck. and Im going to make an service appointment tomorrow with Wayne, bring the battery there and ask what are they going to do, if they're willing to prorate it 50%, I'll take it, it doesnt hurt to have a backup battery at home.(but anything more than 50% , screw it)
#338
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
we're on the same boat, cuz after about hmm 23 months of service, my 2nd battery is now pronounced dead.
According to my NAV's ACC voltage read function. Its reading as 10.8 Volt when engine not running. Im freaking surprise that it can start the car (but all stuff reset, too low power, and I crank it like 6-7 seconds b4 it starts)
Now Optima, 13.2 when engine is out, same as spec.
with engine running, Alternator putting out 14.2-14.4 most of the time. pretty good. so yes, the battery suck. and Im going to make an service appointment tomorrow with Wayne, bring the battery there and ask what are they going to do, if they're willing to prorate it 50%, I'll take it, it doesnt hurt to have a backup battery at home.(but anything more than 50% , screw it)
According to my NAV's ACC voltage read function. Its reading as 10.8 Volt when engine not running. Im freaking surprise that it can start the car (but all stuff reset, too low power, and I crank it like 6-7 seconds b4 it starts)
Now Optima, 13.2 when engine is out, same as spec.
with engine running, Alternator putting out 14.2-14.4 most of the time. pretty good. so yes, the battery suck. and Im going to make an service appointment tomorrow with Wayne, bring the battery there and ask what are they going to do, if they're willing to prorate it 50%, I'll take it, it doesnt hurt to have a backup battery at home.(but anything more than 50% , screw it)
put in yellow top. after reading i should have put in the red top. as i have no thumping anything.. and the red top is less money...
but it is in and it works WELL. did have to extend the pos connection.. but easy..
beers
#339
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
i got 3 yrs out of the new improved tsb mazda battery.. and mine died the same way your did..
put in yellow top. after reading i should have put in the red top. as i have no thumping anything.. and the red top is less money...
but it is in and it works WELL. did have to extend the pos connection.. but easy..
beers
put in yellow top. after reading i should have put in the red top. as i have no thumping anything.. and the red top is less money...
but it is in and it works WELL. did have to extend the pos connection.. but easy..
beers
#347
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
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The optima yellow-top seems to withstand heat pretty well. We don't have the kind of constant heat as in AZ, but we do get a number of triple digit days, and I've seen up to 117. My yellow-top installed in spring '05 is still holding up well -- judged by the way it shrugged off my SeaFoam adventure, with the multiple long-cranks in the procedure. The difference in the Yellow-Top is thicker plates. This is good for durability and deep-cycle, with a small tradeoff in CCA. Preferable to the red-top in the long run, imo.
That being said, I've seen rumblings about recent Optima quality control problems in the electric vehicle forums. Those guys know batteries....
One good alternative seems to be Odyssey batteries.
That being said, I've seen rumblings about recent Optima quality control problems in the electric vehicle forums. Those guys know batteries....
One good alternative seems to be Odyssey batteries.
#348
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
When we are @ SSXI do you want to talk to Yamamoto-san ? He said last year that he would be back this year.
#350
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
The optima yellow-top seems to withstand heat pretty well. We don't have the kind of constant heat as in AZ, but we do get a number of triple digit days, and I've seen up to 117. My yellow-top installed in spring '05 is still holding up well -- judged by the way it shrugged off my SeaFoam adventure, with the multiple long-cranks in the procedure. The difference in the Yellow-Top is thicker plates. This is good for durability and deep-cycle, with a small tradeoff in CCA. Preferable to the red-top in the long run, imo.
That being said, I've seen rumblings about recent Optima quality control problems in the electric vehicle forums. Those guys know batteries....
One good alternative seems to be Odyssey batteries.
That being said, I've seen rumblings about recent Optima quality control problems in the electric vehicle forums. Those guys know batteries....
One good alternative seems to be Odyssey batteries.