Overheating!
#402
Please, let's not forget that Mazmart sells the factory new R cooler and lines for the best pricing in the US. RE-medy is about creating solutions and providing parts that compliment each other. Here's a link to our kit: http://www.mazmart.com/PartsList.aspx?id=27&n=NEW&m=6
Paul.
Paul.
Now your pump in combo with the BHR radiator and I should be good to go.
I went to the dealer and I am not allowed to see the messages from MAZDA about there decision. I am still going to make that phone call though.
#408
I installed your water pump yesterday Paul. I like what it does for the cooling. The car still gets warm. But it drops temps like a rock when you get moving. A lot faster than the stock water pump.
Now your pump in combo with the BHR radiator and I should be good to go.
I went to the dealer and I am not allowed to see the messages from MAZDA about there decision. I am still going to make that phone call though.
Now your pump in combo with the BHR radiator and I should be good to go.
I went to the dealer and I am not allowed to see the messages from MAZDA about there decision. I am still going to make that phone call though.
You deserve for this to be rectified in a manner satisfying to you.
Paul.
#409
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
iTrader: (3)
Paul, second coolers do not solve the problem. The over heating problem is prevalent among all desert 8s. Here in Vegas, everyone who own an 8 has a problem with the heat, some more than others. Most of the problems are very short term with the car returning to acceptable limits quickly. Some like mine do not stop at a reasonable temperature but keep going until it causes a problem. That is Erick's problem also. It's a shame that we are forced to add extra cooling items to a stock car such as Erick's. They tell us it's our driving habits, I own 4 vehicles and my 8 is the only one that overheats in the summer.
#410
Paul, second coolers do not solve the problem. The over heating problem is prevalent among all desert 8s. Here in Vegas, everyone who own an 8 has a problem with the heat, some more than others. Most of the problems are very short term with the car returning to acceptable limits quickly. Some like mine do not stop at a reasonable temperature but keep going until it causes a problem. That is Erick's problem also. It's a shame that we are forced to add extra cooling items to a stock car such as Erick's. They tell us it's our driving habits, I own 4 vehicles and my 8 is the only one that overheats in the summer.
Paul.
#411
Paul ,, my dealershp has done a stellar job in just getting Mazda to recognize this issue. (To a degree). Without Berge Mazda I would more than likely still be beating my head against the wall. Not that I've stopped. I can not say enough good things about them. How many dealers out there would have done what they have done.
Now we go the other way with the situation. Installing your water pump is step one, next it's the BHR radiator.
Step three is make the phone call, which I will do later today, just to get the ball rolling around.
Now we go the other way with the situation. Installing your water pump is step one, next it's the BHR radiator.
Step three is make the phone call, which I will do later today, just to get the ball rolling around.
#412
Registered
iTrader: (3)
the 2009 auto rx8 still has only one oil cooler.
Guys--i firmly believe that the a/c condensor is a major source of yall's temp issues. Yall HAVE to have a/c, but i would not only agree with the Radiator upgrade but i would also suggest strongly a secondary radiator place AWAY from the other exchangers with a fan. Mounted before the a/c condensor. I would also suggest strongly a 180F thermostat so that full flow would continue at all times(basically). Yall's coolant bypass needs to be closed to do that.
I have done all of the above and the difference is profound.
I used a 21 x 7 inch trans cooler with 5/8 lines from Summit racing. Open fin type so air flow to the rearmost exchangers are not really blocked. I fed it with the return heater hose. I mounted mine approx 2 inches back of the front of the bumper support.
I have posted a 180F barrel type(highly recommended for use with a high performance water pump) thermostat thread--some of you have seen this. Others may not be aware.
I would be glad to help anyway I can now that Mazda has shown some true colors concerning this issue.
olddragger
Guys--i firmly believe that the a/c condensor is a major source of yall's temp issues. Yall HAVE to have a/c, but i would not only agree with the Radiator upgrade but i would also suggest strongly a secondary radiator place AWAY from the other exchangers with a fan. Mounted before the a/c condensor. I would also suggest strongly a 180F thermostat so that full flow would continue at all times(basically). Yall's coolant bypass needs to be closed to do that.
I have done all of the above and the difference is profound.
I used a 21 x 7 inch trans cooler with 5/8 lines from Summit racing. Open fin type so air flow to the rearmost exchangers are not really blocked. I fed it with the return heater hose. I mounted mine approx 2 inches back of the front of the bumper support.
I have posted a 180F barrel type(highly recommended for use with a high performance water pump) thermostat thread--some of you have seen this. Others may not be aware.
I would be glad to help anyway I can now that Mazda has shown some true colors concerning this issue.
olddragger
#414
Registered
iTrader: (3)
simple ---take the heater hose that is returning the engine coolant to the engine (remove the little restrictor that is inside that hose--its a small brass plug) and use it to feed the secondary radiator. Then use the s rad "out" hose to return the coolant back to the engine. Reattach it to the thermostat housing like the oridginal heater hose.
The hoses have run to run through the side of the radiator/mount. be sure to reseal that area afterward.
olddragger
The hoses have run to run through the side of the radiator/mount. be sure to reseal that area afterward.
olddragger
#415
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
don't worry boys, the Nitrous is going to cool the engine down.
#416
Banned
iTrader: (3)
simple ---take the heater hose that is returning the engine coolant to the engine (remove the little restrictor that is inside that hose--its a small brass plug) and use it to feed the secondary radiator. Then use the s rad "out" hose to return the coolant back to the engine. Reattach it to the thermostat housing like the oridginal heater hose.
The hoses have run to run through the side of the radiator/mount. be sure to reseal that area afterward.
The hoses have run to run through the side of the radiator/mount. be sure to reseal that area afterward.
Removing the restrictor decreases flow to the regular rad by increasing it through the cabin heater core. It a hot place, the last thing you want to do is introduce more hot water into the cabin, anyway.
If you are going to add a second radiator, use the line to the bottom of the separator tank.
#417
Registered
iTrader: (3)
wouldnt the upgraded water pump handle the need for the increased flow?
also remember that the increased flow through the heater is NOW going to a radiator also.
So far no probs and it sure has made a difference.
The source you listed is a good idea, bears some thought.
thanks
olddragger
also remember that the increased flow through the heater is NOW going to a radiator also.
So far no probs and it sure has made a difference.
The source you listed is a good idea, bears some thought.
thanks
olddragger
#418
Banned
iTrader: (3)
wouldnt the upgraded water pump handle the need for the increased flow?
also remember that the increased flow through the heater is NOW going to a radiator also.
So far no probs and it sure has made a difference.
The source you listed is a good idea, bears some thought.
thanks
olddragger
also remember that the increased flow through the heater is NOW going to a radiator also.
So far no probs and it sure has made a difference.
The source you listed is a good idea, bears some thought.
thanks
olddragger
#420
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
^^^ agreed
#422
I wish they'd put me on the payroll on as a cooling system engineer.
#423
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,425
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This is my main issue. Why am I (and many others) having to engineer a better cooling system for the AT and MT RX-8's in this hot environment? This is an issue that should not have come up at all. This is something that should have been done before production and sales.
I wish they'd put me on the payroll on as a cooling system engineer.
I wish they'd put me on the payroll on as a cooling system engineer.
#424
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
easy: how's she running now?