Engine light came on so I took it to get it checked and he said the code is for the 02 sensor.

Is the parts/labor for that covered under the 100k 8 year warranty?

 

No, only the engine core is covered under 8yr 100k. O2 is bumper to bumper. Forum vendor Mazmart has the best available price

 

For how much? And is there a diy on replacing it...rather not pay crazy high service charges.

 

1) For as much as they charge for it
2) Unclip...Unscrew...Screw in...Clip in

 

Front is $260, rear is 180 i think. Get a O2 socket and if its not seized or you have room under, it just a twist out, disconnect connector.

Actually at a shop right now for my front, because it was seized. Just paying a few minutes of labor

 

This guy charged me $20. Feels nice to have the power back, no more stumbling around, etc... Probably have my 22mpg back as well, but time will tell on that.

 

You are correct. Most of them are siezed.

So you are beeter buying the O2 sensor and show up to the shop with it in your hand.

Let them deal with the removal. Most of the time the treads get stripped.

 

Wait so the o2 sensor alone caused your car to lose power and fuel efficinecy? Hows that?

If I need a whole new cat (aside from it being illegal), would I be better off to just drop the cat n put in a strait pipe (since Im on a really tight budget right now) and just ignore the 02's? I know its prob a dumb idea but Ive heard by dropin the cat you can gain about 20hp

 

The O2 sensor measures the amount of chemicals in your exhaust. When those are below what it wants because it is fowled it will increase the amount of fuel injected which in turn will eventually burn out your cat.

 

Yes, removing the cat and putting in a midpipe does have the highest or second highest gain possible for the 8 (Tune being the other). I went catless with the BHR midpipe a week ago. This doesn't matter when it comes to the O2 sensor though.

If the O2 sensor is reading bad, then the ECU doesn't realize that it's dumping in the wrong amount of fuel, which usually means power loss from running too rich or too lean, and since the ECU generally defaults to rich when it sees issues, you end up dumping lots of gas through your exhaust that isn't getting burned because it's WAY too rich.

You can run constant Open Loop (ignores O2 values and goes off straight tables) by running without a front O2 sensor, but your mileage will be even worse. Like 9-13mpg range.

Getting the Air/Fuel ratio at optimum, and accurate, is where you make the most amount of power, and use the least amount of fuel for the speed/gear you are cruising in.


My O2 was killed when it got over-burnt from a failed cat that built up too much localized heat and cooked it. Didn't die immediately, but the issues were all over the place for months before I finally figured it out.