Ok guys I just got a call from the dealer and here are the numbers he gave me over the phone. He said the spec is 6.8 and I have the following numbers...4.8, 3.7, 3.9, 4.8, 3.9, 3.9. Can anyone give me a clue as to what this means. The dealership said the engine is shot. He did say the tech said I have a bad ignition coil and it needs new spark plugs.

 

Found the answer in the New and Potential owners sticky that every new member should read...

 

ok, thanks for the chart. I am a little confused though, based on my numbers my engine should not be running and yet if you push start it, it will run although very rough and without power. The tech mentioned the bad coil and I wonder if that bad coil would have affected the compression test results???

 

Just because the compression is below spec doesn't mean it can't run at all.
I've seen many engines run that way, but like you said, they can run rough and without power.

The ignition coils have nothing to do with compression tests.
You actually don't want ignition to occur while performing the test.
In fact, you insert the transducer into one of the spark plug holes to read the compression.

 

mine ran with a blown seal on the rear rotor .... guys have travelled 100s of miles on one rotor to get home... many stories out there.

You could try the zoom zoom cleaning procedure. It might raise your #s a little but the truth is they couldn't be much lower than what you reported.

I can send you a well used, but functional, coil if you want to try the zoom zoom cleaner without throwing too much more money into it.

Drop me a PM with your address. I've got a small flat rate box here if you paypal me the cost of shipping.

 

hey thanks for the offer. I just ordered today from Autozone 4 new spark plugs and one coil for $95. I am going to give that a try. Found a local guy that is a rotary enthusiast so at least I am not alone. He is willing to help out. He did mention that the compression numbers can be misleading depending on whether the engine is hot or cold. since mine was towed to the dealership, it was ice cold.

 

Put in the new coil, Zoom zoom clean the crap out of it, then new plugs and see how it goes.

And start planning on dumping it or a rebuild.

 

can you send me a link to the zoom zoom clean procedure. It appears some like the Seafoam and others recommend the real stuff from Mazda. Which one should I use?

 

Search for it... Plenty of threads here cover the differences.

 

Been searching for answers on this code. Starting to drive me crazy. I did a rebuild on a 13b engine and now it's back together and running I get cel code p2004,have looked at the gear and put magnet at 1:00 position and even ordered a used motor. The oms from it are at 24 so from what I've read that acceptable. I can't find any reason for this fault. The white gear turns very easily with motor off and motor runs when key is turned on. Any help on this matter would help me greatly. I can't get it to pass Utah emissions due to the fact they say not all systems have been ran. I've put 4,000 miles on this rebuild outta ideas. HELP

 

no matter what i do my rx8 will get a p2004 cade and i clear the coad but it dont came back in less i turn the car off and turn the car back on its back ant idear????

I THANK ITS THE 5<6 PORTS NOT WORING BUT THE THE GEARE TUNES FINE LEFT AND RIGHT AND THE APV MORDER IS NEW TO LAVES ME TO DROP THE ENGINE OR OPEN UP MY WIRES UP TO LOOK FOR A BRAKE IN THE WIRES