I've always used Carb Cleaner

 

^^ thanks Jon, BTW your videos are always of great help, thanks again

 

Hey Jon, got a problem that you might know. Still haven't thrown a CEL with that p2070 code again, but my car stalled today at a stop sign. You think its because of the SSV? Going to get it fixed at the end of april, but I thought i'd ask. Guess I might do coils, plugs, and wires too to be on the safe side. Coils and plugs aren't that old, but I only drive the car maybe once a week. What do you think?

 

Nothing right now is pointing directly to the SSV being the culprit.
Feel free to test the valve's movement just to be sure, but other items could cause this such as ignition, compression, or fuel pump.

 

Ok well thanks, but I forgot to mention that about 500 miles ago it through a p2096 (running rich i think) after I filled up my gas. I guess i'll start with ignition first when i get the SSV fixed. I would drive it over to you (about a 7 hr drive), but i'm afraid it won't get there without having issues.

PS: Also my car has 78k miles on it, so I might just go ahead and change the fuel filter too. This has me puzzled because it's not throwing any CEL's at the moment and it doesn't act like its sputtering.

 

Well, I just joined the infamous p2070 code!! Only @51K miles and have to deal with what I just read is total asinine by Mazda!! If this car wasn't so unique, I would have gotten rid of it a looooong time ago. No sane customers would want to have to hassle with the damn stealerships/Mazda to have this addressed, ESPECIALLY, when it is a very well known issue on this "stuck" issue!!!

I just threw in a can of seafoam into the gas tank and will drive the **** out of it in hopes that it will at least remove the carbs. Next step would be some in the oil crankcase. If that doesn't work, either deal with it or have someone help me in the apparent 5 hrs project. Either way, not a good feeling I have for Mazda right now....

 

Stop dumping fluids into random places hoping to solve a problem.
Fuel is dispensed further downstream in the intake runner and will never reach the SSV.
And oil isn't even injected into the intake, so not sure why you thought that would help.

Just use the DIY to narrow it down and stop guessing/assuming.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/

 

Dang..so much for my attempt at avoiding the 5 hrs. project..thanks Jon!!

 

Trust me... if it were as easy as dumping fluids into the gas tank, I would have suggested that.
I've even removed the UIM and sprayed carb cleaner directly onto the valve with no success (same car as in my video).
Again... this all is under the assumption that the valve it truly stuck/sticking.

 

Alright guys well i invested in me a diagnostic tool scan my pcm having this rx8 for 2years im tired of going up to auto zone, after running it i got codes: P2070, P0302, P0420, and p0704. After doing lots of research going in n out of threads i see Intake Manifold tuning valve stuck open bank 1 is what is malfunctioning so ima pull that and clean it following a thread i found. I also found from code P0302 that i have a Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected, i believe that is a result of me having a bad ignition #2 coil is what the tool is saying, to cure this i will buy the BHR ignition kit, yes overkill but ive been eying it on here for a while that that Charles guy is selling because i been needing to change my wires and coils anyways, it seems to make a big difference so i will invest in it, if anyone have any info or suggestions on it speak up im still learning so im ALL EARS! Based off what ive said if u got anything else to help out it'll b greatly appreciated seeing that i cant drive for 10 to 15 miles without it killin on me and fouling the plugs and having a etremly hard time cranking up! Wish me luck my 8 is too clean to b sittin in the garrage

Mod Notice to Poster:
13. Multiple posts about the same thing across many forums are considered "spamming" the site and may result in the poster being banned. (alnielsen)

 

Got the code 2070. Over the course of the last year, off and on poor throttle response at lower rpm range and assumed it was just the nature of the beast. Over the last week seemed a bit more than normal and threw in the fuel injector cleaner gas addaitive and not much of a difference. Monday drive home from work and the engine light came up while passing another car (don't ask at what speed) and the Check Engine Light came on. Uh, oh. Long story not so long, I had my odb2 datalogger scan the codes and seen P2070.
Great input on all of the various threads here on the subject and I was at the dealer the very next day armed with knowledge.
The end result was the replacement of the valve over 2 days of it at the dealer. Charges: diagnostics $80 dollars, Valve and misc. parts $350.
Result: Smoother idle, better throttle response throughout the rpm range, especially long and steep uphill grade (cough) acceleration without needing to downshift.
If the SSV can stick or is inconsistant with it's operation, in either opening or closing, the symptoms leading to the issue may not be because it 'stuck open'.

 

I've had the p2070 a few times recently, but I haven't had any idle issues, etc. I think it may be a bad contact switch. It appears the SSV is working ok if I watch it while a friend revs the engine in neutral. Is this an acceptable test to prove it's working all the time? It seems to me that if it works in neutral, it should always work, but I wasn't sure. I've read several of the threads Jon posted in, but don't remember seeing this simple test to test the contact switch.

Is there another way to test the switch? If it is bad, does anyone know a part number and how to replace it? I don't recall seeing a switch replacment DIY.

 

Going to try this tomorrow thanks good thread

 

For what is worth, but didn't want to post this until it happened again..which it just did and I did the same thing last time..which was..

A bottle of Seafoam in the tank..warm car up, ran the **** out of it on the highway in 3rd gear (with a tank full of Shell V-Power)..and VOILA, the error code disappear!!! Not sure how that works out, Rotary-wise, but it will save me from shelling serious $$ for someone to strip the manifold valve and clean the gunk up

Anyways..maybe you have to do this early when you 1st get the engine error sign..so..with that in mind..it wouldn't hurt to try, as it only cost you $8/bottle, and a nice trip on the highway in 3rd gear

 

1st of all awsome thread thank you!!!!!
So i did get the infamous P2070 code and while driving it home i had a miss fire. My question is would 1 cause the other. Thanks in advance!!!!!!

 

Had mine in yesterday and they replaced the SSV assembly, including the actuator. My symptoms were a loss of low RPM power, and a power drop crossing about 4,500RPMs under acceleration. The loss of power felt very similar to the feeling when the stock coils went bad, but without the "chirping" sound on start up.

The 4,500 RPM drop is gone and the low end power is back!

A little under $1,400 for parts and labor including new spark plugs and an oil change at Lee Johnson Mazda in Kirkland WA.

I do most of my own work, but just didn't feel up to it this time around. Maybe if it were in the summer and my garage was warmer.

 

Happy New year everyone, just woke up this morning and I have the P2070 code. I am currently in Toledo visiting and have a 220 mile drive to Cincinnati to get home today. I am not experiencing any symptoms at all, from what I have been reading so far (not nearly done reading yet) I should be good for the trip home? Any advice would be appreciated, I plan on troubleshooting all of this once I get home.

 

Just an update since my 1st post on the P2070 code. Ever since reporting what I have done, I have switched gasoline from cheap FredMeyer to pre-dominantly Chevron. I had one other instance of it showing back up, so instead of going through the process of seafoam, etc., I tried a different blend of gas (normally I would switch between FredMeyer or Shell V-power). Suffice to say, V-power wasn't do much to it, so I tried Chevron with their additives in all gasoline grade and VOILA! I have NEVER received another P2070 code since 2012!!! SO, for what it is worth, try this out and it might save you the headache and substantial $$ to take the stupid valve out to clean it or replace it....my 2 cents....

 

Add me to the club

 

My SSV was stuck closed and thanks to Jon's great post I was able to pull it, clean it, and reinstall and then my 2005 GT was like new. Oh how much better it drove and I hadn't even realize it was getting worse and probably not opening all the way for a while.

Anyway, last week I started getting P2070. If I clear it with my scan tool it stays off for one trip then comes on when I start it the next time.

The SSV is operating properly. I can manually move it easily with a screwdriver and it jump right back when I let go. Further, I used a tip from Brettus to watch the unit cycle when I had my wife turn the car off for me. Opens and closes fully.

The switch tests good. Continuity across when the car is off and the valve is closed. As soon as you move the valve a slight bit, the circuit opens and no more continuity.

I did seem to have an issue with the ground wire somewhere in the harness, so I soldered in a fresh ground into the wire in the harness just a few inches back from the connector to the SSV switch.

I found the pinouts on the ECU and verified I have continuity from ground all the way through to the ECU connector except when the valve is open.

So the valve is actually opening and closing, the solenoid is working, the switch changes from open to closed, what else is left to kick a P2070 consistently? Iv'e cleared it several times and the CEL comes back right after the next time driving.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
And yes, I would have started a new thread, but I've never had a question I couldn't find an answer to on this amazing forum, so this is my first post after just creating an account.

EDIT: I have also tested to ensure I get battery voltage from the ECU pin when the car is warm and at idle if I manually open the SSV and that voltage drops to 0 when the SSV closes again.

 

Just joined the 2070 club, saw a random mechanic...Im out in the boondocks, Humboldt Co CA. He says he doesnt know what it will cost or IF they can do it AND no appointment for two weeks. Thanks everyone for posting on this blog. I am getting real info from real Mazda guys.
I feel safer too

 

I just joined the P2070 club this week on my '05 MT. Thanks the the great folks here, especially Jon316G, I was able to deal with it.
The CEL came on a few days ago and I found the P2070 code which would not stay cleared. I used this forum to determine the likely fault and got a quote from a local dealer for replacing the SSV for about $600 since the warranty expired. Kept poking around and since there was no other symptoms I sprayed some carb cleaner on the outer mechanism and now the CEL went away. Looks like it was not the valve (this time).

Thanks again.

 

THREAD REVIVE::!!!
Hey guys, lots of great info on here. I recently got this code aswell(P2070) on my 2004 6spd rx8. I JUST replaced my 3 solenoids, (ssv/Vdi and AIR) due 0076 and the 0661 both related to solenoids If I recall. BuT when I ordered these solenoids I ordered the purge valve solenoids... NOT the EGR solenoids. They look identical and fit the exact same and plug right in. Should I be worried about these new solenoids being the issue?? ALSO... I can move the arm for the SSV valve by hand. Doesn't seem hard, I can move it back and forth easily enough. . And I pulled the hose off the actuator, put my thumb over the hole and it holds for as long as my thumbs over the hole (on the actuator itself).. I guess I'll take her apart and test the switch.. but just a weird scenario. Thanks!!

 

Want to throw another scenario in here, hope this helps someone....

Had a flaky aftermarket vacuum solenoid. It wouldn't totally seal up when not energized. That pulled the actuator back a little bit when it shouldn't be, so the actuator wasn't hitting the sensor, throwing the code. Swapped out with a good one, done.

I put a vacuum hose on the nipple pointing up on the solenoid and sucked on that with my mouth. All air should go through the side with the cap/filter on it but air was coming through the other nipple which should be totally closed off while not energized.

After I swapped in a good one that was that, problem is gone and code is gone.

Dale