rud

Hi All. Some time ago my car started to loose power after driving for around 15 mins. Have to downshift to as low as 2nd gear to get it moving.
Got a CEL few days later: dead ignition coil. Changed those together with spark plugs but still same ****. Another thing is that it won't restart when i shut down if the engine is hot, i.e has been running for more than 15 mins. If it is cold then no prob in multiple starts.
Any ideas most welcome. Checked the other threads on the issue but haven't found anything conclusive. please help.

Thanks. Rud
2004, 5spd MT, stock.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

mileage? cat? compression check

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

^^^ what he said.

have you checked the cat? It could be clogged

rud

Hi. Mileage:90k km, around 56k miles. I'll check the cat. One question though, it seems that the previous owner used the wrong type of spark plug (what i heard from a friend who knows the previous owner well). Is it possible, by the symptoms, that i may have a broken apex seal? I was thinking of getting an engine kit from Atkins and redo all the seals. What do you guys think? is it worth?

Bluerenesis

I wouldnt go to that extreme yet until you cross off all the easy possible fixes but I really think you should get the compression tested after checking the CAT like the others stated.

rud

I've got the 9B like all of you but the 8C instead of 7C which is most common in the states. I got mine from the UK, made NGK. Interesting enough, while changing the spark plugs i found out that the rear rotor plugs were inverted. I put all plugs back to "normal" and that's when I flooded the engine.
I just took the car on the motorway and drove it like hell and it did satisfy me. It is running super fine for the first 15-20km. Pulled over, put the engine off. Checked the CAT, nothing glowing. But the damned thing won't restart. Waited 10 mins and it started again like everything's normal and drove just fine...
Can't find a rotary compression tester on island with only 2 dozens 8s and a coulple of 7s. Will try to get a "normal" compression test on Monday.
Coils are from the UK, OEM part. Suppression wires from B&B in the states.
Cheers from Mauritius.

Rud

Bluerenesis

Is your car stock or does it have any performance modifications?
Let us know Monday about your compression results and any ideas the mechanics have.

rud

Yes, will post the results tomorrow. The car is bone stock, no mods whatsoever. Another new thing i witnessed: It had a sudden surge in power around 6k rpm on first gear, it was quite brutal, not smooth, never had that before. 2nd gear was ok up to 8k rpm and so was 3rd.

rud

Hi all. Couldn't do the compression test yesterday, the bugger wouldn't start again!!! She flooded again. By the time I got her started, all garages were closed.
Can someone please explain to me why she wouldn't start when hot but when I push-start her, she starts just fine. Battery is fine, alternator is fine, starter is good, new coils, new spark plugs!!! I just can't find a logical explanation.
To de-flood it, i removed my plugs and unplugged the coils and removed the fuel fuse and turned the engine on starter to evacuate the gas. Something i noticed is that the gas came out with more pressure from the rear rotor than the front. Is it normal?
It's really getting me on my nerves, have to borrow my mum's old Civic to go to work...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Agree.
Not sure why people lately are ignoring this advise when given.
Guess they like to waste money and time on other unlikely components.

rud

Hi Jon, I'm not ignoring your advice, on the contrary. I'm from a small country lost in the middle of the indian ocean, and on top of that I work 12-14 hours a day...not an easy life i assure you, my two year old son will tell you something about it...

Good news, i got someone to do the test for me as I am "too busy". Reported results: Front Rotor 100-102 psi, rear rotor 106-108 psi.

He also got an Air Flow Sensor malfunction (IAF?), which did not generate any CEL. He says there is an overvoltage when the engine is hot and it closes the air supply when i try to start the engine. He will do some more tests by tomorrow.

Charles, Jon and all you guys, I really appreciate your help and advice and I'm very grateful. Please let me know what you think about the results. He will do another compression test maybe tomorrow.

Thanks.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

We need to see the compression numbers of all three rotor facings, per rotor, and at what RPM.

What was the voltage reading on the MAF at idle?
There is no way to close the air supply since the primary intake runners don't have valves.
Only the throttle body could "close" air supply... and even that stays open at 5 degrees and is easily visible to verify when the flexible tube is removed.

rud

Damn, I really don't know if there is a rotary compression gauge on the island... All 8s in Mauritius are second hand imports from Japan, our local dealer does not do 8s, and with only around 15-20 rotaries here...tough job.
Ok for the MAF voltage, i'll ask for those.
Do you have any idea why it starts fine when i push start it???
I did check the throttle a few days ago, curious but i did not notice the 5 degree opening, will check that again.
Regarding the compression test, I don't know how accurate his instrument is. But when i tried to de-flood the engine there were the three distinct "Phsst" from both rotors.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Could be a combination of battery and starter.
Many people misunderstand the problem with these components and say, "I'll just get them tested."
Thing is, they will test OK because there is nothing wrong with them alone.
The original battery did not supply enough crank amps and the starter wasn't delivering enough torque consistently.
I myself had issues where it would start fine cold, but then had trouble starting when it was warmed.
New battery and starter solved that for me (and my compression is still good).

Its easier to just observe the valve while someone is in the car pressing the gas pedal.
No need to start the car, just turn the key to 'ON'.
The valve remains slightly open at rest in case throttle control signals are lost and the PCM enters a fail-safe mode.
This position provides a high idle speed to allow the car to be driven.

If you can hear the three "Phsst" sounds from both rotors, you may be fine (or enough to at least run the engine).
If the sound is consistent and doesn't appear to "skip" or miss a sound, that's a good sign.
We were concerned with the comment about gas coming out with more pressure.
Usually if its that noticeable, then there is a noticeable compression difference between the two rotors.

rud

Hi Guys. I was really sceptic yesterday when the garage called me to give the compression test results, and rightly so. Was just there this morning and redid the test, twice.
All of you guys were right, i got a 1:4 ratio on both rotors instead of the rated 1:10.

Well atleast now i know where the trouble comes from, even if that means spending some more money...

rud

No comments from anybody... : (
Checked the compression again today with another manometer, the hand hardly moves during compression, nothing really to do with the sensitivity of the instrument, needle went up on my Civic, but moves very little on the 8... I definitely need some courage to tackle this one, guess my car will have to stay in the garage for quite some time, till i get parts flying from the states...

rud

Hey Guys, I'm back. Just got the engine back to where it should be yesterday, fired it up today.
Had a broken apex seal and a broken side seal in my rear rotor! Plus oil scraper rings were fully worn out. Anyway, got everything new in that engine and hope it will last some time.
I will road test the car tomorrow but i have one important question: What is the Break-In period for a rebuilt rotary?
Your comments and advice will be most appreciated.
Cheers.
Rud

EricMeyer

The break-in period revolves around new and used bearings. Same for seals. Quite honestly we warm up the car for 30 minutes idle. We then spend an hour at about 2,000 rpm and then drive the heck out of it.

rud

Hey Eric. Thanks for the advice. Tried the car today, had a 80 km ride, not a single hot stop/start problem. Power was consistent all over.
I think it was well worth the wait and money. I just hope it lasts...