JamesD31

So, I have cleaned my wires plenty of times, it works. Then it stops working, then it'll work but cut out randomly while driving!

It still pulls to the right (while turning "left" is harder). If I keep pulling right, it will ultimately turn off.

If I hit a BUMP going X mph it will disengage..

My question is: IS THIS STILL SIGNS OF CORRODED WIRES?!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Nope, it's a sign of The torque sensor dying (or dead), the only way to fix this is to get a new rack assembly.

JamesD31

I took it into Mazda, they claim that they REFUSE to check the rack and charge my warranty (or at least tell them that it is the rack) UNTIL I pay them $400 to clean the stupid "corroded" wires.. which aren't corroded >_>

danielk015

iTrader: (1)

I think there are several power steering threads but will post my recent experience. I had this exact issue earlier in the year, so I got the connectors welded and that solved my power steering going out randomly for about a month. Then it went out completely. before paying for a big fix like the rack assembly, swap out the power steering harness to a new one. I got this done last week and so far so good, back to like normal. this is the cheaper fix to test if you really need a big job done.

JamesD31

Where can I get the harness and how hard is it to swap? I can probably get the rack covered under warranty, but probably not the harness if it is due to "corrosion" or anything of that nature.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Harness is simple, just a length of wires with appropriate connectors. $400 to clean the connection is straight robbery. You remove the air filter box, the filter tray, and the connection is right there. Piece of cake.

Check with Mazmart on the harness itself.

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

I had similar symptoms with mine and tried cleaning all connections, replacing harness, and removed connectors/soldered wires and the problem persisted. After replacing the rack it has not happened again.

$400 to clean those connectors is complete insanity and you should go to another dealer and call Mazda North America and file a complaint.

REtali8

iTrader: (2)

Just to throw this out there, I had the same issues with mine. Had cleaned, would get better etc. While at a local rotary shop getting exhaust work done, I mentioned this to them. They pulled the main plug and reseated all the wires and crimped the connectors for better hold. 5 weeks so far and not a single issue.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

At this time, I think it's one of the terminals because I experienced what you have; you really just need to clean and tighten the connections. I had the same problem almost four years ago and fixed it with zip ties, then when I had my engine replaced a year-and-a-half ago it came back; mainly, when I fully turn the wheel or when I hit a bump. I completely removed the harness, cleaned it with dielectric grease and tightened the connections; extended the hose of the coolant reservior, as well. Three options:

- Clean and tighten the terminals.
- Hardwire (solder) the connections.
- Replace the harness with a brand new one.

If none of those work, consider nycgps' advice, or it could be the EPS module...
That's what bladeiai had to do almost three months ago.
Addendum: It wasn't mentioned early in most of the other Power Steering problem threads, but if the EPS still act out after cleaning all the three connections, check the fuse which is located on the positive terminal of the battery marked EPS 60 A. Also, ake sure your battery's positive terminal is clean and snug; if that terminal is loose, a slight bump may cause to cut off your EPS' electrical continuity.

JamesD31

Terminal is fine, also if the fuse was blown, I wouldn't get any power steering correct?

In regards to the $400 they wanted to charge me, I agree that was bs and that is why I did not want to work with them. I have been honestly thinking about calling Mazda NA to file a complaint about all 3 Mazda dealerships I have been at and my horrid experiences with them.

So far the power steering seems like it works? (I don't remember how nice / easy it was to turn the wheel since I have been without proper power steering for so long).

I will let it go for a few more days, and see if it knocks out / acts up again, hopefully not as I have an AutoX event coming up and would love not to have my power steering out, or worst, go out during the event.

A few days ago, my power steering started to tug really hard to the right and almost got me to crash into the car to the right of me.

JamesD31

Well update, it turned off again on me today. Does anyone have any good straight up mechanic shops that will do the power steering rack swap? They don't necessarily have to be a rotary place does it?

I ask this because there is only 1 close Mazda dealership near me that I have not tried. Honestly, I would like to stay away from them period. I also kind of need a flywheel refinished (or a new one if deemed necessary) and maybe a compression test (this new engine doesn't seem as powerful as I remember it being, though that could be just the flywheel not engaging properly).

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Any shop should be able to do the steering rack replacement. Nothing rotary specific about it.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

There is nothing special about swapping a rx8 steering rack, any shop should be able to do it.

JamesD31

So, talked with the mechanic doing my work, and it DID turn out the power steering rack was shot. They also mentioned some problems with the wires, but not that big of a deal. According to the shop, they got confirmation from the warranty company who will cover the rack and an "alignment"?

Not sure what they are aligning, but the warranty company is covering 80% of that (only $30 on my part?)

Either way, the shop says that it was about a ~$1,400 job and I lucked out with only having to pay the $100 deductible and the $30 alignment (so ~$130). National Auto Care Corporation (my warranty company) does come through when I need them.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The tie rods either come out with the rack, or need to be unmounted from the rack. The tie rods are threaded into the rack, and the depth of this threading changes the toe in or out. So nothing unusual with the full alignment, it's going to be required.

JamesD31

Yea, I was mentioning that to someone at work and they said the same thing basically. It makes sense now. I wonder if they are going to replace the wire harness as well.

elysium19

iTrader: (1)

I've never heard of a steering rack that was truly found to be broken with systematic diagnosis and need replacement. If you just replaced the harness ($90) that will usually fix everything. As I've stated in other posts. it is extremely sensitive to voltage fluctuations; even if everything appears intact, it may fade in and fade out and just not work properly/consistently.

The irony is that I'm pretty sure they replace the harness when they replace the steering rack, so it perpetuates this myth that the steering rack was faulty. I'd love to be proven wrong, but I havent heard of it yet...

JamesD31

Everyone here states that it should be the harness and that is usually the case 99% of the time. Though, the warranty company even sent out an inspector who had to of verified that it was the steering rack as well, as they replaced it.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

After fixing dozens of Rx8 out there, the EPS rack's failing rate is actually really high ... especially the earlier ones from 2006 and Earlier.

the newest version came with newer cars seems to do better, but only time will tell, I tried to speak with Showa(the japanese company who makes the rack) but so far no responds. meh

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

It's often just the torque sensor that goes right? Luckily Mazda doesn't offer that without replacing the whole thing...