Questions about my compression test results
#1
Questions about my compression test results
Hi all,
Been lurking these forums ever since I bought my 8 a little while back. I am still pretty new to the 8 and rotaries but I finally got a compression test since I am approaching the 100k mark. According to the service tech he said my compression was "very good" however I don't think he normalized my results. With that said my numbers came out as such; Rotor 1, 305rpm, 7.2, 7.4, 7.4. Rotor 2, rpm not listed (assuming it was the same?), 8.2, 8.1, 7.9. I downloaded the rx8 compression calculator from the app store and using that, it normalizes those numbers to 6.2, 6.4, 6.4, and 7.2, 7.1, 6.9. With 4/6 numbers showing up in red. Does this mean my engine should be replaced under warranty due to low compression or am I wrong about my results? Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Been lurking these forums ever since I bought my 8 a little while back. I am still pretty new to the 8 and rotaries but I finally got a compression test since I am approaching the 100k mark. According to the service tech he said my compression was "very good" however I don't think he normalized my results. With that said my numbers came out as such; Rotor 1, 305rpm, 7.2, 7.4, 7.4. Rotor 2, rpm not listed (assuming it was the same?), 8.2, 8.1, 7.9. I downloaded the rx8 compression calculator from the app store and using that, it normalizes those numbers to 6.2, 6.4, 6.4, and 7.2, 7.1, 6.9. With 4/6 numbers showing up in red. Does this mean my engine should be replaced under warranty due to low compression or am I wrong about my results? Any help would be appreciated thanks.
#3
What year is your car because the warranty is 8 years or 100k miles, whichever comes first. So if it is an 04 then chances are pretty good it is not in warranty. The warranty started when the car was sold to the first owner and I believe you can find out the date by calling mazda north america or maybe a dealership.
#4
There aren't any huge gaps from chamber to chamber but the engine is at least down on power despite possibly "working" properly.
At 100k the housings will probably have to be scrapped, it's cheaper to just buy a remanufactured engine from a reputable source than rebuilding it
I'd say contact Mazmart but i'm partial, they're my vendor of choice for replacement parts!
At 100k the housings will probably have to be scrapped, it's cheaper to just buy a remanufactured engine from a reputable source than rebuilding it
I'd say contact Mazmart but i'm partial, they're my vendor of choice for replacement parts!
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