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rattling and white cloud from exhaust at 9k rpm only
Hello all, so just like in the title, i have some issues.... again.... it started with rattling in idle, not strong but if you stay out of the car you would hear it, i left it to the mechanic and he said that the issue could be coils, since for him the ones that i bought are chinese replicas of NGK coils, i bought them on RockAuto.... anyway, i didn't change them yet, only took the car back home, but while going home i noticed that while going at around 9k rpm and changing gears it did a big cloud of white smoke, it was something new....
After 2 weeks from the mechanic, i took the car again, did the normal warm up while cruising my town, all cool, after that did small redlines and that was also ok, when i took the fast road and did 2/3/4 gears at redline, at 4th gear it did a really big white cloud.... i continued going, after that the car had difficulty in acceleration (slow) and at idle it was trembling like crazy and if i didn't give gas, it felt like dying....
also i've been checking coolant since the first smoke, and it never decreased.
So i parked her, turned her off for 5 min and back on, and here you can see how it turned....
So I have a 2006 RX8 with 134.000 km more or less, no CAT, I did a rebuild at 120.000km (2 years ago), changed battery too. Changed Plugs, Coils, Wires 4.000km ago and the starter too. I did a compression test with those results: 617 597 583 and 515 654 654 I use 20w50 idemitsu oil and premix sometimes..
Sounds like you're sucking oil into the intake. This can happen at high rpm if you have a lot of blowby, which tracks with the compression test results.
Sounds like you're sucking oil into the intake. This can happen at high rpm if you have a lot of blowby, which tracks with the compression test results.
yeah actually i took it from the mechanic after an oil change, and it seems he overfilled a bit…. So like is this ok and will go away or something should be done ?
i will check the air intake tomorrow and see how much oil is in there
Last edited by FrancescoRX8; 01-24-2023 at 07:14 PM.
If it's just overfilled that's one thing, but if it sucks oil at normal levels, your engine isn't long for this world. The compression test results are also failing, but as long as it runs fine I'd be willing to repeat the test and see if it remains the same.
hello loki, i had some time and did some changes in the 8, replaced the coils (put the old ones back), thanks to that the car stopped having difficulty in acceleration..... but the old problem came back, the hesitation one, it hesitates between 5 and 6 k rpm, is that because of old coils.... because the solenoids should be new since they got changed...
oh and also while changing the coils i checked the intake, it was full of oil, i cleaned most of it, also cleaned the MAF sensor, but strange enough the oil didn't get to the air filter, it stopped around the maf area....
Also another thing, dunno if you can help, i searched on rx8club but couldn't find anything, it's about an ebay seller called isicar, they sell coils from japan at a good price, do you think they are reliable ?
thanks for your help in advance.
Last edited by FrancescoRX8; 01-30-2023 at 11:34 AM.
Buy good coils. If you don't know the seller or brand, don't buy it. It's like buying a heart transplant, you don't want one off ebay . BHR is the reference around here, or Mazda.
If your old coils brought back old problems, I wouldn't drive on them to avoid creating other problems (clogging the cat, for example).
Oil in the intake should be your biggest long-term concern. If it comes back after a high rpm run, you have blowby, which means engine rebuild eventually. Combustion gas is getting past the side seals and into your oil. It might be driveable for a while, but if it barfs oil whenever you go high rpm, it's hard to have fun. If the oil is not overfilled, and doesn't come back into the intake, that's a better sign, maybe it only happened because someone put too much oil.
Yikes, ok. The fan might have something jamming it, it's easy to drop one of the engine cover grommets in there.
As for the spark plug... I hope that piece didn't go anywhere too critical :/
hello loki, soooo i did put the old one, ran it one time but it was having such a difficult start that i decided to let her stay a bit, and change back to new coils…. But today i decided to start the car and it went really bad, started not even hitting 2000 rpm cold…. Here’s video
Possible the coils or spark plugs didn't get connected back in the right order after you swapped them back and forth?
Hello Loki, so here's the update....
I changed plugs and coils, all new (ngk and mazda oem)...
did the deflood procedure but i noticed that from rotor 2 (rear) there is no oil coming out, contrary to rotor 1 (front), you can see it in the photo, i put two papaers to cover the holes, only one had oil on it...
oil
anyway i started the car, here's the video of her coming back...
all good, she had a strong sound, i did a long run, parked and tried to turn her on righ away but she didn't want to... so i stopped, waited another 10 sec and tried again, this is the video of when she did turn on (hot engine).
So like... did i do something wrong again ? like putting wires (the order is right [blueL-blackT-blueL-blackT].... for example i didn't hear a click sound, you know the one you hear on spark plugs, like 3 plugs did the click but the 4th didn't... but i tried removing her by hand and she didn't budge....
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by FrancescoRX8; 02-18-2023 at 08:22 PM.
So like... did i do something wrong again ? like putting wires (the order is right [blueL-blackT-blueL-blackT]
Thanks in advance.
That's assuming each wires is connected to the right coil up top. But anyway, she doesn't sound super healthy and the oil coming out spark plug holes isn't a great sign. Could the oil have come in via the intake? If the intake is dry then it's getting in past the oil rings somewhere in rotor 1.
Amd you're sure there are no gaps in the manifold or throttle body connections where air could get in?
That's assuming each wires is connected to the right coil up top. But anyway, she doesn't sound super healthy and the oil coming out spark plug holes isn't a great sign. Could the oil have come in via the intake? If the intake is dry then it's getting in past the oil rings somewhere in rotor 1.
Amd you're sure there are no gaps in the manifold or throttle body connections where air could get in?
oh yeah forgo to add [first coil-L, second coil-T….and so on] i followed the photo on here so I’m sure that one is ok…. Still dunno if the click is mandatory or not, didn’t find a thread about it…
so the oil is bad… damn… I thought it was ok… i did similar thing like a year ago and a little bit of oil came out too, not as much as here and it came from both rotors…
anyway to make clear the procedure was to take out 4 plugs, take out fuel pump relay, turn the key, let her run for 20 sec that way, clean oil and put new plugs on…
as for gaps i will check since i did take out the intake to put coils… maybe i moved something, will check all wires too
Last edited by FrancescoRX8; 02-18-2023 at 09:53 PM.
That's assuming each wires is connected to the right coil up top. But anyway, she doesn't sound super healthy and the oil coming out spark plug holes isn't a great sign. Could the oil have come in via the intake? If the intake is dry then it's getting in past the oil rings somewhere in rotor 1.
Amd you're sure there are no gaps in the manifold or throttle body connections where air could get in?
so here's the update, i did everything again, checked coils plugs wires... all perfect all in place.
still it starts the same way, long cold/hot starts, here's the two videos of the starts:
the idling is ok, a bit rough but no idle drops, it's at perfect 800... only starts have issues... all new, battery, starter, and what not... the only answer would be the engine compression at this point...
May want to eliminate the battey and starter as possible causes. If the battery lost a cell or two it'll have trouble delivering the current needed to get the starter up to 250 rpm. The starter itself could also be wearing out and not getting up to the required speed. I'm not saying it's not compression also, but the llack of difference between cold and hot suggests it's not exactly just a compression problem.
May want to eliminate the battey and starter as possible causes. If the battery lost a cell or two it'll have trouble delivering the current needed to get the starter up to 250 rpm. The starter itself could also be wearing out and not getting up to the required speed. I'm not saying it's not compression also, but the llack of difference between cold and hot suggests it's not exactly just a compression problem.
Thanks for the reply Loki, I seriously have no words…. It all started after i left my car for 3 weeks at mazda dealership in my city (in Italy)… for a complete clutch change (here photos)
A piece of clutch missing Pressure plate damaged Release bearing destroyed
they changed a lot of things…. And stayed for 3 weeks, maybe a little more…. But I’m sure it’s after that time That the car started to go crazy with starts…. The start issue started to be bigger and bigger, taking more and more time….
maybe they did something or maybe the clutch missing piece destroyed more than what they changed…. Just dunno
Have you talked to Mazda about it? If they broke something while working on the car, they beed to fix it. Insist it all started after the clutch job. They could at least help diagnose.
Although if it took 3 weeks to change the clutch, my confidence in them isn't starting high.
the llack of difference between cold and hot suggests it's not exactly just a compression problem.
I dunno, to me the difference between cold and hot is quite significant. It sounds worse when hot and takes more effort for it to start, so I'd almost be certain that the main problem is with compression.
I dunno, to me the difference between cold and hot is quite significant. It sounds worse when hot and takes more effort for it to start, so I'd almost be certain that the main problem is with compression.
hi all, so yeah, it's compression, i left it to my mechanic and he measured it, but didn't take a photo, he said that front rotor is like bad, really bad and only the rear is good and spinning for both.
so that's all, all the money and time spent for nothing... rip
Have you talked to Mazda about it? If they broke something while working on the car, they beed to fix it. Insist it all started after the clutch job. They could at least help diagnose.
Although if it took 3 weeks to change the clutch, my confidence in them isn't starting high.
hi loki,
i wanted to know if there was a way to mod the ecu so it would turn off in idle and would take longer to start ?
Because i decided to sell the car, and the mechanic to whom i left my car for compression test, said that he's interested in buying it, so i wanna know if there is something he would've done to alter it....
I went there 2 days ago to try her and it died in idle (which is something that didn't happen before, i never wrote it on here) and it was taking way too much time to turn her on (which is also something that didn't happen in my videos).
Last edited by FrancescoRX8; 03-08-2023 at 05:51 AM.
01-24-2023 | 03:53 PM
. BHR is the reference around here, or Mazda.
