Real Way to Clear the Memory
#52
Just to give my input... I got the P0037 error code and read somewhere it may be from a change of weather. To test to see if it was an actual problem I pulled the room fuse and then did turned the car on and pumped the break about 20 times. I put the fuse back in and it did in fact reset the CEL. Good news for me is that the CEL did not come back on.
#59
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
After I replaced them, I didn't have an issue with clearing the PCM.
So its possible you could have an issue with the ignition system (coils, wires, plugs) or something else preventing it from running properly.
#61
edited 3/26: added addition KAM procedure, also formatted it for easier reading, removed some excess.
Hey guys,
Alright I seem to frequently be running into people suggesting you clear the KAM and/or NVRAM by holding the odometer/trip reset button and when it says test bla bla bla.
First of all, the only way to clear a code is with an OBD scanner or disconnecting the battery, CEL codes are NOT stored in KAM or NVRAM they are stored in basic memory in the module which they are set (PCM, TCM, ABS HU/CM, etc..). No power to the module with the code = no more code.
Here is how you clear your memory, also some reasons to clear each memory:
NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they're pretty close to unique.
As you'd imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn't want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn't a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won't erase.
When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it's really needed is when replacing a motor since you'll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you'll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it's good to clear it.
How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:
NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.
2004-2008 Method
1. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
NOTE:
Manual transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132647 and automatic transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132607 or vehicles with PCM updated to "L" calibration or later can confirm the clearing procedure was performed. If procedure was successful, the oil pressure gauge needle will move to right of center slightly (nearer H).
Vehicles produced prior to these VIN's or vehicles without "L" calibration do not have an indicator to confirm the clearing procedure was performed.
3. Drive vehicle and confirm misfire related DTCs are not stored.
NOTE:
If the malfunction cannot be corrected even though the procedure was successful, the eccentric shaft position plate may be damaged. Inspect the eccentric shaft position plate. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-40 ECCENTRIC SHAFT POSITION PLATE INSPECTION and repair as necessary.
2009-2010 Method
1. Record customer radio station presets (FM1/2, AM, SAT).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable for a minimum of 1 minute.
With negative battery cable disconnected, depress and release brake pedal one time.
3. Reconnect negative battery cable.
4. If equipped with DSC, perform the STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE located in MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 04-15.
5. Input customer radio station presets.
6. Initialize power windows. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-12 POWER WINDOW INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE.
KAM (Keep Alive Memory)
Keep alive memory is not named because it keeps the car alive, rather it's named after the way it works. When you remove the battery terminals from the battery you'd assume all power in the car is lost right, hell your clock resets so the PCM must too, right? WRONG. KAM is saved by "Keep Alive" power, reserve battery power if you will.
KAM generally doesn't store very important stuff, other then the airbag operating on KA power they dont store anything in the KAM tho they just use the same reserve power. The main thing KAM stores are things like fuel trims etc. It's useful to reset KAM when you have lean/rich codes where the fuel trims have been able to reach 25%. It takes a while even after repair for the fuel trims to go back to proper levels, if you clear the KAM it will reset them to 0%.
How do you reset KAM?
Two easy ways, disconnect the battery and leave it like that for at least 10 minutes, sometimes longer. To expedite the process disconnect the battery and hold down the brake pedal, itll drain the KA power quicker. This will allow all codes to clear and KAM to clear.
After some research, at this time, it seems pulling the Room Fuse on the interior fusebox will also clear only the KAM. Not 100% sure yet, but pretty close.
-----------------
So what is this instrument cluster/odometer test thing people have been throwing around? The answer's right in front of their face, as it says it is a "TEST" and since it's in the Instrument cluster it would be.........the Instrument Cluster Input/Output Check Mode.
What is the IC Input/Output Check Mode? It's a quick and easy way to test all the electric meters/sensors/lights etc in the IC.
Here's a link to a larger description:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-diagnostic-outputs-155947/
YOU CANT CLEAR ANY PCM MEMORY WITH THE ODO/TRIP RESET BUTTON. If you want i can explain how to test each on of those things... im still searching for where in the FSM it says the odometer can reset NVRAM, because im sure mazda would like to repair it.
Thank you and good night,
kevin.
Hey guys,
Alright I seem to frequently be running into people suggesting you clear the KAM and/or NVRAM by holding the odometer/trip reset button and when it says test bla bla bla.
First of all, the only way to clear a code is with an OBD scanner or disconnecting the battery, CEL codes are NOT stored in KAM or NVRAM they are stored in basic memory in the module which they are set (PCM, TCM, ABS HU/CM, etc..). No power to the module with the code = no more code.
Here is how you clear your memory, also some reasons to clear each memory:
NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they're pretty close to unique.
As you'd imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn't want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn't a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won't erase.
When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it's really needed is when replacing a motor since you'll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you'll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it's good to clear it.
How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:
NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.
2004-2008 Method
1. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
NOTE:
Manual transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132647 and automatic transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132607 or vehicles with PCM updated to "L" calibration or later can confirm the clearing procedure was performed. If procedure was successful, the oil pressure gauge needle will move to right of center slightly (nearer H).
Vehicles produced prior to these VIN's or vehicles without "L" calibration do not have an indicator to confirm the clearing procedure was performed.
3. Drive vehicle and confirm misfire related DTCs are not stored.
NOTE:
If the malfunction cannot be corrected even though the procedure was successful, the eccentric shaft position plate may be damaged. Inspect the eccentric shaft position plate. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-40 ECCENTRIC SHAFT POSITION PLATE INSPECTION and repair as necessary.
2009-2010 Method
1. Record customer radio station presets (FM1/2, AM, SAT).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable for a minimum of 1 minute.
With negative battery cable disconnected, depress and release brake pedal one time.
3. Reconnect negative battery cable.
4. If equipped with DSC, perform the STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE located in MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 04-15.
5. Input customer radio station presets.
6. Initialize power windows. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-12 POWER WINDOW INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE.
KAM (Keep Alive Memory)
Keep alive memory is not named because it keeps the car alive, rather it's named after the way it works. When you remove the battery terminals from the battery you'd assume all power in the car is lost right, hell your clock resets so the PCM must too, right? WRONG. KAM is saved by "Keep Alive" power, reserve battery power if you will.
KAM generally doesn't store very important stuff, other then the airbag operating on KA power they dont store anything in the KAM tho they just use the same reserve power. The main thing KAM stores are things like fuel trims etc. It's useful to reset KAM when you have lean/rich codes where the fuel trims have been able to reach 25%. It takes a while even after repair for the fuel trims to go back to proper levels, if you clear the KAM it will reset them to 0%.
How do you reset KAM?
Two easy ways, disconnect the battery and leave it like that for at least 10 minutes, sometimes longer. To expedite the process disconnect the battery and hold down the brake pedal, itll drain the KA power quicker. This will allow all codes to clear and KAM to clear.
After some research, at this time, it seems pulling the Room Fuse on the interior fusebox will also clear only the KAM. Not 100% sure yet, but pretty close.
-----------------
So what is this instrument cluster/odometer test thing people have been throwing around? The answer's right in front of their face, as it says it is a "TEST" and since it's in the Instrument cluster it would be.........the Instrument Cluster Input/Output Check Mode.
What is the IC Input/Output Check Mode? It's a quick and easy way to test all the electric meters/sensors/lights etc in the IC.
Here's a link to a larger description:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-diagnostic-outputs-155947/
YOU CANT CLEAR ANY PCM MEMORY WITH THE ODO/TRIP RESET BUTTON. If you want i can explain how to test each on of those things... im still searching for where in the FSM it says the odometer can reset NVRAM, because im sure mazda would like to repair it.
Thank you and good night,
kevin.
I have checked the following things and have no luck:
Coils OK
Cables OK
e-shaft sensor OK (tested with a voltimeter)
Water leaks OK
Spark plugs OK
O2 sensor OK ( tested at 600 F )
I am sure the problem is in the pulley, but I do not know what else to do. Before putting the pulley the car were fine, and still is. Good idle, no rough sounds, runs smooth. It just has lost a litle power. It also have the Revi. Intake system with the ram air duct, and the RB headers.
Any comments, really appreciate.
Thanks,
Sergio
#63
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
you have to reset the e-shaft profile if you make any change on the engine; the key on/engine off brake pedal pump procedure
edit; guess you did that, better double check everything you changed. No way to really bent the e-plate. No way to install it backwards. Only real way to screw it up is to not install it at all or not get everything seated properly on the e-shaft. You might try cleaning the pickup sensor surface.
.
edit; guess you did that, better double check everything you changed. No way to really bent the e-plate. No way to install it backwards. Only real way to screw it up is to not install it at all or not get everything seated properly on the e-shaft. You might try cleaning the pickup sensor surface.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-12-2011 at 08:44 PM.
#67
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
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^....................well, that explains it!
Jeez, what was it...welded on there?
Thinking if he didn't pry it off with a freaking screwdriver(if stuck at all) that maybe he didn't get it lined up with the holes correctly? Think you would see that as a distinctive wobble and car won't react well. Better check it and clean that sensor.
Sergio...........When you did the reset, did you see the oil gauge sweep right and then left? If not, do it again and repeat until it does(assuming you checked everything else).
Jeez, what was it...welded on there?
Thinking if he didn't pry it off with a freaking screwdriver(if stuck at all) that maybe he didn't get it lined up with the holes correctly? Think you would see that as a distinctive wobble and car won't react well. Better check it and clean that sensor.
Sergio...........When you did the reset, did you see the oil gauge sweep right and then left? If not, do it again and repeat until it does(assuming you checked everything else).
#68
^....................well, that explains it!
Jeez, what was it...welded on there?
Thinking if he didn't pry it off with a freaking screwdriver(if stuck at all) that maybe he didn't get it lined up with the holes correctly? Think you would see that as a distinctive wobble and car won't react well. Better check it and clean that sensor.
Sergio...........When you did the reset, did you see the oil gauge sweep right and then left? If not, do it again and repeat until it does(assuming you checked everything else).
Jeez, what was it...welded on there?
Thinking if he didn't pry it off with a freaking screwdriver(if stuck at all) that maybe he didn't get it lined up with the holes correctly? Think you would see that as a distinctive wobble and car won't react well. Better check it and clean that sensor.
Sergio...........When you did the reset, did you see the oil gauge sweep right and then left? If not, do it again and repeat until it does(assuming you checked everything else).
Thanks again.
#70
good info in here guys. i have two questions. jon you are awesome on here...i have used your DIY's before and they saved me a fortune!
first , i have a P0610 CEL. PCM error. I was wondering if i should do the NVRAM clear (20 brake pedal pumps)?? will this reset the PCM? the dealership said i can pay them $100 for a diagnostic to see which flash it has and if it just needs a pcm reset or if it needs a new pcm (the dealer should have installed the most recent flash when replacing the engine a few months ago). is there a way to verify which flash i have now? the P0610 CEL has been on for at least 3-6 months. the transmission was replaced a while before the CEL came on, and the engine was replaced a few months after the CEL came on. around the same time the CEL came on, the radio starting having issues...the front speakers started popping and completely stopped working a short period of time later. after driving for a month or so with no front speakers, the rear speakers started popping and then they went out too. leading me into my next question...
i read this regarding a radio reset
is it possible to "reset" the radio and/or the radio software to attempt a fix for my radio problems??
thanks guys
first , i have a P0610 CEL. PCM error. I was wondering if i should do the NVRAM clear (20 brake pedal pumps)?? will this reset the PCM? the dealership said i can pay them $100 for a diagnostic to see which flash it has and if it just needs a pcm reset or if it needs a new pcm (the dealer should have installed the most recent flash when replacing the engine a few months ago). is there a way to verify which flash i have now? the P0610 CEL has been on for at least 3-6 months. the transmission was replaced a while before the CEL came on, and the engine was replaced a few months after the CEL came on. around the same time the CEL came on, the radio starting having issues...the front speakers started popping and completely stopped working a short period of time later. after driving for a month or so with no front speakers, the rear speakers started popping and then they went out too. leading me into my next question...
i read this regarding a radio reset
the radio button reset is only for audio related DTC's, there's a whole sub-test system for the audio system.
there's tons of different memory resets, one for almost every module on the chain. only the NVRAM and KAM are engine related, other then PCM regular memory etc.
kevin.
there's tons of different memory resets, one for almost every module on the chain. only the NVRAM and KAM are engine related, other then PCM regular memory etc.
kevin.
thanks guys
#71
I haven't had my 8 for a super long time and when I got it, it had bad a bad cat and weak coils. I replaced the exhaust with a Turboxs and rp. Then I replaced the coils with the BHR kit. Car runs good but there is a wierd hesitation at around 6k. It was alot worse with the bad coils. It kinda felt like a fuel cut with the bad coils now it just feels like a slight hesitation. I was wondering if it could be fuel trims from having the bad coils. I'm only getting a cel for the no cat. Thanks in advance for any help or Ideas.
#72
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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I haven't had my 8 for a super long time and when I got it, it had bad a bad cat and weak coils. I replaced the exhaust with a Turboxs and rp. Then I replaced the coils with the BHR kit. Car runs good but there is a wierd hesitation at around 6k. It was alot worse with the bad coils. It kinda felt like a fuel cut with the bad coils now it just feels like a slight hesitation. I was wondering if it could be fuel trims from having the bad coils. I'm only getting a cel for the no cat. Thanks in advance for any help or Ideas.
My guess................APV, so do an advanced search and type in "APV", but we all have a slight hiccup at that range of rpm.
#73
I'm sorry I totally asked if you all thought this would help due to I was thinking the fuel maps would be out of whack from running bad coils. Then weeks later you come in here and give me the don't hijack a thread yet if I started a new thread I'd hear the whole search thing. This is why this site gets such a bad rep. Thanks I will look up the APV thing thou.
#75
Im 8 drifting on a budget
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Ok, so heres the senerio with me. had this car since it was new. My car was running fine before I put it on jackstands for a paint job in the garage. I had the battery out. when I was ready to take it off the jackstands I had my battery charged,cleaned the MAF checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the eccentric sensor( it really wasnt dirty) and changed the trans, diff. and engine oil. So I install the battery and did the nvram and 20 ft stomp deal, though I didnt think I needed to. checked for codes with my CAN scanner, no codes detected. Started up the car. let it run to temp. but when I give it a little rev it goes down below 750, and shuts down. if I ease it down to idle,it sometimes is ok with that. ok. so I take it for a 20 mile drive even though I had to work to keep it from dying on stop signs. Is it relearning my fuel trims and will get better or what? this 04 has 28400 original miles so its not wore out by all means.the only thing is it had the last M flash years ago. new coils, wires spark plugs. Ok, anyways I can handle any flaming at this point, but I would really like to understand whats going on here. I know this should be in the Trouble shoot thread but I was reading this thread to look for clues to my idle problem.
Last edited by juikster; 03-12-2012 at 02:24 PM.