Rebuilt motor - wont start
07-18-2011, 07:03 AM
#26
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would have also guessed that it would have been the injector wiring. I myself had also messed that up and did not realize this the first TWO times i checked it. Not untill i got **** and were checking wire colors and diagrams out of the manual did i get that part fixed. Also, It may take a few times to pull start the car. I know the first time i started it after the end wobble fix, it took me about 5 or six times to get it where it would stay running. I think it was just the crazy amount of flooding. I jsut played with the gas to keep it going untill eventually it would idle. Not saying there is not another issue but jsut givin a heads up
07-18-2011, 09:36 AM
#27
You should never have to pull start a rebuild. You have a problem in the build if you are pull starting it to get it started.
You need to make sure the car is deflooded. Once you are certain it is you can try to start it off starter fluid. Just remove the little plastic box that is right before the throttle body and spray a good amount in there. You should be able to get the motor to fire up even w/ the fuel pump fuse pulled. Once you can get that to happen plug the fuel pump back in and start it off the starter fluid and it should run.
You can also inject oil through the lower spark plug holes if you need to bump the compression a bit to aid in starting.
Did use new side seals on the build? If so did you clearance them or did you purchase the preclearanced seals? I have seen sides seals clearanced too tightly break the corner seal and the motor sounds like it has decent compression but will not start. I had to correct a motor like this for a customer before.
What seals did you replace in the build? The more info we get the more help we can provide.
You need to make sure the car is deflooded. Once you are certain it is you can try to start it off starter fluid. Just remove the little plastic box that is right before the throttle body and spray a good amount in there. You should be able to get the motor to fire up even w/ the fuel pump fuse pulled. Once you can get that to happen plug the fuel pump back in and start it off the starter fluid and it should run.
You can also inject oil through the lower spark plug holes if you need to bump the compression a bit to aid in starting.
Did use new side seals on the build? If so did you clearance them or did you purchase the preclearanced seals? I have seen sides seals clearanced too tightly break the corner seal and the motor sounds like it has decent compression but will not start. I had to correct a motor like this for a customer before.
What seals did you replace in the build? The more info we get the more help we can provide.
07-18-2011, 10:23 PM
#28
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had bought kit "A" from atkins rotary and cryogen apex seals so i kept the factory side seals, there was a variance in their length forsure so i used the table found on mazdatrix website. Ill try the starter fluid and inject some oil and see what happens. Im also changing out the wire harness and going over each connection lol. Should this not work ill look into buying a compression tester
07-31-2011, 07:17 PM
#29
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
K so update on this messed situation..changed out the engine wire harness hoping theres an open circuit ive overlooked and got the same no start scenario. So finally today i gave in and bought a compression gauge, took out the shrater valve am getting 30 psi on all 6 rotor surfaces:s WTF? Thinking the gauge must be screwed i tried it on my daily driver (murano) and got a descent 160 psi. What the hell would cause the same low compression number on each rotor surface??
What sis you forget to do?
08-01-2011, 09:55 AM
#31
I hate to say it, but looks like you need to pull the motor and tear it back down. You cannot solve the problem by guessing and throwing parts at it.
If you cannot figure it out or do not want to tear it back down there are several good shops who can rebuild it for your depending upon your location or you can ship it out to get it rebuilt. I do this w/ some of my customers.
Good luck.
If you cannot figure it out or do not want to tear it back down there are several good shops who can rebuild it for your depending upon your location or you can ship it out to get it rebuilt. I do this w/ some of my customers.
Good luck.
08-05-2011, 09:54 AM
#33
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never used thier apex seals. However, when i had my motor built by Steve Kan i sent him the atkins chryo treated rebuild kit. He told me that when he was putting hte motor together they sent him the RX7 corner seals that are chry treated. He claimed that they would not work properly. I talked to Atkins about it and they claimed that they would work fine in the eight. None the less, i swapped them out for the non chryo treated rx8 corner seals. I never got to try the ones that Atkins includes in thier kit, but maybe that would be the issue?
08-05-2011, 08:01 PM
#34
Nothing wrong w/ the Atkins Cryo seals. You are missing something in the build. Check everything twice when you tear it back down. No one can solve this one over the internet. Your just going to have to spend some time w/ it. Post up some pictures and we can assist as much as possible.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PotatoCannon
New Member Forum
13
09-06-2015 11:48 AM
