I've been researching my issue a lot, and I've found a lot of info. However I feel like my situation is a tad bit different. However, essentially if my CEL is P0076 then I should replace the ssv solenoid because its not functioning properly? Heres some things I've done and noticed with my problem

Btw i drive an 04 GT with about 80,000 miles on it. Replaced wires/plugs/coils over the summer and gutted the CAT. Just cleaned the MAF, reset ECU, and replaced the air filter.

--If the solenoid isnt working properly you can actually hear the intake sound likes its trying to get more air but it can't (essentially its raspier/suffocating). When the solenoid doesnt function properly the whole powerband is essentially limited in performance (sluggish) (car can't get past 6250rpms and misfires)

--If the solenoid IS working properly the intake sounds a lot more throaty and deep and the car flies through the powerband.

--I've used a mity vac and SSV valve moves freely 100% and holds vacuum.

--I've torn off the UIM and visually saw that the SSV was gunk free and functioning. I cleaned the connectors to the solenoids but I didn't replace the SSV solenoid, yet (next step, I think)

But the BIGGEST problem thats throwing me for a loop is....

I've wrapped a shoe lace around the SSV actuator arm and opened the arm manually all the way, and tied the SSV open and disconnected the vacuum line. Now, assuming the solenoid is the problem, wouldn't tying the actuating arm open temporarily fix my problem and wouldn't my performance at higher rpms (when the SSV is engaged) be normal? Because in doing such, my car still performs poorly throughout the powerband and essentially "redlines" at 6250rpms.

Im also getting a p0300 code "random misfire" which only comes when I hold the care at the "redline" of 6250rpms

please help

 

If you have it open all the time the ECU will know and still cause issues. Did you check the solenoid?

M A Z D A Engine: Intake: Solenoid inspection

 

Im checking the solenoid this upcoming tuesday. Im ordering it tonight actually, just want to make sure that its the solenoid.

Should I also disconnect the SSV actuating connector? Would that make my performance normal again until i replace the solenoid?

Im not really understanding how the ECU would still cause the problem to happen. Does the ECU still limit the air intake despite the fact the SSV is completely open? If thats the case can I reset the ECU (stomp the brake) and would the ECU adapt to the open valve?

 

Check out the troubleshooting section under engine.

 

there are different codes depending on the actual problem. I had a visibly (at first glance) clean SSV that still stuck. You can also sacrifice your Air pump solenoid temporarily to test your SSV...

 

in all the times which I have manually opened and closed the SSV acuating arm (which is a **** ton amount) it has never stuck at any point and always had its full range of motion.

Would lack of air at high rpms cause misfires?

 

lack of air at high rpms could cause all kinds of cool stuff if the fuel is still present… misfires and back fires and flames out your tailpipe come to mind.

Mine too operated smoothy. Ultimately it was a good bath and scrub that fixed it up. Try using your air pump solenoid if you're bored… at least then you'll know for certain what to do next.

 

Thanks! Ill deff swap the air pump solenoid and see if that fixes the problem. If not then I get I gotta get to the ssv valve :/

On a side note. Any idea why my car runs a little rough once its fully warmed up? I never see the RPM guage bouncing around, but sometimes the car shakes/rumbles. Worn motor mounts? Or could the air/fuel ratio be messed up because of the solenoid malfunction and cause the engine to run rough? As soon as I touch the gas at all the car runs smooth.

 

Starting to think the fuel injectors are also giving me a problem. If I slowly climb up the power band than I more than likely dont get stuck at 6250rpms. If I go ***** to the wall it stops at 6250... Im thinking some type of buildup of debris in the fuel lines. I did throw a whole bottle of techron in a half tank the other day and immediately my car was red lining every single time for a bit. But before that half tank was gone it was stalling at 6250 again.

And on a side note, its not always 6250, sometimes it hits 6500.

From 1st->2nd its 6250 usually, and 2nd->3rd is around 5800-6250. Any idea where I can find information about when certain fuel injectors kick in at what rpm range?

 

Just tinkered with the car again today. Noticed that when it does redline you can hear something around 6250 kick on, almost like a high pitched "ehhhh" noise. Any idea what this could be?

Also checked the SSV vacuum check valve, seemed pretty restrictive so I picked up a new check valve and threw it on there. Car will redline fine in neutral but as soon as you put that in drive then its restricted to 6250.

Cleaned the throttle body today.

Noticed that the air duct that connects to the air box didn't have a very good seal. Mickey moused it and it seems to be tighter.

Drove around last night with a disconnected ssv vacuum line, disconnected ssv actuator connector, tied the actuator and ssv valve 100% open, and reset the ECU, and with no luck the problem still persisted.

Edit: Just sprayed MAF cleaner all over the ESS, reset the ESS, and now my car will stall upon start up if I dont give it a little gas once the engine finally starts for the brief second before stalling. Once I give it that tad bit of gas it idles, so far, better, and a tad bit higher too (maybe 900 instead of 750ish) Edit : Forgot to plug MAF sensor in, hence the stalling. Ironically enough the car idled much better with the MAF unplugged... Possible indication of MAF sensor malfunction or even the actual MAF still being dirty despite using half a can of MAF cleaner on it,

 

For now the problem is fixed. One little bottle of Lucas fuel system cleaner and the car is running strong again! Shitty winter blend fuel seems to be a huge problem