Vincenzo Diglio

So my last thread I was working on fixing the P2070 my car was given me. I took it all apart got the SSV out the actuator seemed to work fine, the switch ran power through it, and it was covered in carbon. Soaked in chem dip, cleaned up and put back together. I also changed the oil.
now when I started it, it sounded great. I was like “yes,hopefully everything is worked out”. Pressed my throttle down to rev it up and on let off, rpms go down a bit to far and it stutters before it catches and isles. Sometimes a bit rough, and anytime I give it throttle it does the stutter. Aside from that everything sounds great. It did not do this before I did the work today.
anyone with any thoughts please let me know. If I should just buy a new piece if it’s still from the SSV I’ll do that too.

Vincenzo Diglio

This was the only problematic area on th SSV.

jcbrx8

Vincenzo,

Off top of my head I'd begin t-shooting by doing the following:
1. dbl-check anything you "touched" and ensure all connections are snug, , e.g. vac lines, connectors, etc.
2. visually confirm the SSV is operating properly. If you have someone start & turn off the engine...you can stand and watch that the SSV runs through it's test cycle, i.e. opens and closes.
2. Disconnect battery, if you hadn't already. Re-connect battery. Then do the 21 brake stomp reset.
3. See where things are. If things seem "better / ok", go for easy drive to try to allow trims to "re-learn".

Hope these help.

Vincenzo Diglio

I did take the battery off and go back through some of the stuff. taking the water pump cover back off and manually manipulating the SSV, even while running just to make sure its still working. I did not think to watch it through a start up and turn off though so thanks I will do that. I did take it for a drive and it wasn't horrible. of coarse when I let off or throw to neutral it stuttered during decell. if I cannot get things right again after this little check list I will wait for tomorrow and take the whole damn thing apart and put it back together again. im getting pretty good at these pieces as its the fourth time I have taken this apart this week. first to change the thermostat, then three times for this.i will just go back through all my steps and then make sure I do them exactly backwards again. I will do the brake reset now thanks again

Loki

iTrader: (1)

You discoed the battery, so the car has to relearn to idle.
Let it warm up idling then go for a gentle drive. It will learn to not bog down.

If you still have this problem after a couple of drives, come back.

Vincenzo Diglio

I think it may be an electrical thing. All of a sudden I’m getting two new codes that I was t getting before. P0123 & p0223. Both have to do with the throttle body/position sensor/pedal sensor sending high output. So I’m gonna move some wires around disconnect and reconnect all pertinent wires for that system. And see if anything is pinched or what have you.
i did the reset last night and it seemed to help. I let it run for 15. Turned it off then back on. It seemed to help but not make it perfect. I took it around the block and it isn’t hesitating as bad as it was last night. But it was still doing to it to some degree. After work today I will be working on it again. So I will keep posted.

Vincenzo Diglio

So as of now the problem is still occurring. I had my Daughter start and turn off the car. I watched the SSV cycle through and close. the P0123 and P0223 have not come back yet. drove around the block a couple times after brake reset system.let it run for about 20 turned it off on and drove. came back home on for fifteen drove. today still there. I will be taking my car apart again this weekend as I have a silicone hose set coming in. so no need to take it apart now and then. it will just drive me crazy the next couple of days. I do wanna know about the wire harness that connects the pedal to the throttlebody to the ECU. how can I find the part number for that? just in case that codes do come back. I will keep posted. please any advice let me know

PerilousGhost

My problem with the idling after battery disconnect, or even if it’s not from disconnecting battery, my rx8 would shut off at times when stopping at lights, more when hard braking, I didn’t realize the problem until 2 months later, that it was my Air Meter Boot that caused it to shut off during idle, or struggled to stay on. After my mechanic changed the air meter boot my 8 has been running as good as when I first got it, just need to change coils back to stock as some boof installed GM Hummer coils, and also, for others that are more experienced with the 8, are coils responsible for acceleration response time? My acceleration is so damn slow it takes over 5 seconds for it to actually speed up from 0.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Start your own thread, amigo. You need proper diagnosis. GM coils if done properly are a desirable upgrade over the stock coil timebombs.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

If the code doesn't reoccur I wouldn't worry about it. Before we go down the road of replacing parts, can you get fuel trim numbers from OBD when it's warmed up and idling? This will confirm/eliminate that taking everything apart introduced a vacuum leak.
On a hunch, I would check the jet air vacuum connection on the LIM and the little VFAD nipple out of sight on the underside of the throttle body.

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dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It is common to get strange voltage related codes when you connect and reconnect the battery and work on the car.
Reset the ECU and if they don't come back ignore them. It is also common to get communication error codes on the CAN system at the same time.

I've always tried to clear codes with a scanner....