rough engine start up and loss of power VIDEO PROVIDED
#1
rough engine start up and loss of power VIDEO PROVIDED
Hey guys i have a video i took of my start up. im pretty sure its not flooded caz it starts. but anyway, the car worked normally and i drove it to nissan to get an oil change (because its 16 dollars and they wash my car!! mazda charges me 25 and they dont even wash my car :/) and i pulled up and turned off my car, filled out some paper work, and the guy asked for my keys so he can check the mileage. and then he started it up... and he went inside to call me outside to see my car and thats when it started acting up. the idle was really really rough and the power loss was noticeable. it felt like only one rotary was working. and also after it gets warm, the idle would drop like normal, but then it would end up dying because it couldnt handle it or somtin.
anyway i had to get it towed back to my house and before i take it to the stealership i want to do what i can to fix it before i start spending money on diagnostics. i heard that mazda charges 200 for a compression test and if i fail THEN it gets waived... so yea ive been searching on the forums and i decided to replace plugs coils and wires. imma put in the order for that tmrw through that mazda revolution site thing.
caz i figure, if anything, those are due for a change anyway and if it fixes the problem then great! so yeah, heres a short clip of what my car sounds like and what im experiencing. thanks for all ur help guys! and i kno u guys hate it when people start new threads and what not, but this is the trouble shooting thread and no one really posts videos of their problems so hopefully someone in the future can look at this thread and be like "OMG THATS WHAT MY CARS DOING!" yeah. first post too btw.. :D and thankyou to all the DIY people! without you guys i would be spending 800 dollars at the stealership for a simple change of spark plugs, ignition coils, and wires.
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/v-NhCkb9Ih4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
http://youtu.be/v-NhCkb9Ih4
anyway i had to get it towed back to my house and before i take it to the stealership i want to do what i can to fix it before i start spending money on diagnostics. i heard that mazda charges 200 for a compression test and if i fail THEN it gets waived... so yea ive been searching on the forums and i decided to replace plugs coils and wires. imma put in the order for that tmrw through that mazda revolution site thing.
caz i figure, if anything, those are due for a change anyway and if it fixes the problem then great! so yeah, heres a short clip of what my car sounds like and what im experiencing. thanks for all ur help guys! and i kno u guys hate it when people start new threads and what not, but this is the trouble shooting thread and no one really posts videos of their problems so hopefully someone in the future can look at this thread and be like "OMG THATS WHAT MY CARS DOING!" yeah. first post too btw.. :D and thankyou to all the DIY people! without you guys i would be spending 800 dollars at the stealership for a simple change of spark plugs, ignition coils, and wires.
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/v-NhCkb9Ih4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
http://youtu.be/v-NhCkb9Ih4
#4
Registered
iTrader: (15)
Well without reading the codes it is really going to be hard to diagnose. Where are you located? Any autoshops near you that can lend you a obd2 reader to read the code? I personally wouldn't operate that vehicle until you do that first and foremost.
When was the last time you changed spark plugs and coils? I think the problem is a bit more serious than those but its a good place to start.
I almost want to say that the compression is shot in the engine.
btw, dont rev the car too high on a cold start....i know you were just trying to keep the car alive but on a cold start you really dont want to shoot the tach past 4k for a few mins.
When was the last time you changed spark plugs and coils? I think the problem is a bit more serious than those but its a good place to start.
I almost want to say that the compression is shot in the engine.
btw, dont rev the car too high on a cold start....i know you were just trying to keep the car alive but on a cold start you really dont want to shoot the tach past 4k for a few mins.
#5
I bought the car used almost 3 years ago. its 04 and had 32,000 miles on it when i bought it. now it has 80+k and i havent changed a thing on it except a kn typhoon intake. so yea, spark plugs n coils should be changed regardless. i hope thats all it needs! well i wouldnt mind a new engine either, but it would suck if that wasnt the case and i have to pay for the compression test
im in southern cali and ill probably borrow that reader thing ur talking about after i change those parts and the car Still wont run. btw thanks for the replies i feel special that someone is actually tryin to help me out :D so be sure to check back here on tuesday, caz i hope to have changed the plugs n coils and ill update what happens.
im in southern cali and ill probably borrow that reader thing ur talking about after i change those parts and the car Still wont run. btw thanks for the replies i feel special that someone is actually tryin to help me out :D so be sure to check back here on tuesday, caz i hope to have changed the plugs n coils and ill update what happens.
#8
k so im still waiting on the coils and wires to ship to my house. in the mean time i went to autozone and oreily to pick upp my spark plugs and i changed those and tried to start the engine. it does the same thing. but it does idle better and the engine light turned off after about 2 min. but as soon as the engine got warm, i gave it a quick blip and then it went down to idle, and then died .
i have to wait for my coils to come in. so ill give another update after that. til next time *tear*
i have to wait for my coils to come in. so ill give another update after that. til next time *tear*
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Swindon, UK
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Hate to say it but this is exactly what my car was like and mine ended up having a new engine. If you don't want to fork out the 200 for a compression test from the stealer until you know for sure, you can buy a cheap piston petrol engine compression tester off ebay and do it yourself on rotor one then rotor two as it is running on only one rotor all you are looking for is a difference in the readings between the two rotors. If there is an obvious difference then it's prob a toast engine.
#11
alright guys... so my car... WORKS! it turned on after i installed the ignition coils and wires. WOOT WOOT! thanks for all your guys help!!!! heres a video i took of the start up right after i finished installing the other parts. genuine excitement
http://youtu.be/Twe-VIn-e8c
oh and a pic of what my old spark plugs and coils looked like. dont mind the date stamp. its not correct lol.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2...n/oldparts.jpg
http://youtu.be/Twe-VIn-e8c
oh and a pic of what my old spark plugs and coils looked like. dont mind the date stamp. its not correct lol.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2...n/oldparts.jpg
#12
oh and i got another question... so i was tightening the last ignition coil andd i guess i didnt have it inserted correctly but i kinda snapped off half of the screw... so now the screw is flush with the ignition coil so i cant screw in the nut.. as of right now i have it zip tied tightly around that plate.. but i was feeling around behind the plate to see if i can replace that screw but couldnt feel anything.. anyone kno how to fix that screw?
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