runs rough and suddenly smokes - alot
#1
runs rough and suddenly smokes - alot
I'm hoping someone is familiar with this.
I have a cel code for o2 sensors for quite some time. I changed the rear one and the cel still came on. So I bought the front sensor (air/fuel mix) but I have not put it on yet, but all of a sudden the car runs really rough and is sending out lots of smelly exhaust, I guess its blue maybe. Could all this be the front sensor?
I am in a cold climate, 2004 rx8 only has about 40 k on it.
Anyone famililar with this?
I have a cel code for o2 sensors for quite some time. I changed the rear one and the cel still came on. So I bought the front sensor (air/fuel mix) but I have not put it on yet, but all of a sudden the car runs really rough and is sending out lots of smelly exhaust, I guess its blue maybe. Could all this be the front sensor?
I am in a cold climate, 2004 rx8 only has about 40 k on it.
Anyone famililar with this?
#2
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It sounds like your engine is done. Blue smoke is not a good thing as it indicates that oil is burning (probably due to oil rings failure). For how long are you driving the car with a front O2 sensor cel?
Last edited by tza0001; 02-09-2013 at 09:12 AM.
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blue smoke is oil. black is unburnt fuel.
grey is carbon which is good
blue/black usualy like a rich flooded nasty rotary engine.
id suggest new ignition system --> seafoam ---> clean Mass airflow sensor ---->compression test.
grey is carbon which is good
blue/black usualy like a rich flooded nasty rotary engine.
id suggest new ignition system --> seafoam ---> clean Mass airflow sensor ---->compression test.
#4
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What is the exact code you are getting? If you already purchased the front o2 sensor then go ahead and install it, it can't hurt anything. The front o2 sensor is the main one and you definitely need that working properly.
#5
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Hard to connect the dots...Why would the above steps stop the engine from burning oil if oil rings are bad? I would start from a compression test and move accordingly. OP have you noticed a dramatic change in your oil consumption lately?
Last edited by tza0001; 02-09-2013 at 09:12 AM.
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^A bad front O2 sensor would make the car run rich and rough. My concern is that the OP has noticed a blue smoke. Could that indicate an engine failure or could it be associated with running rich?
#11
Thanks for the suggestions
But my problem persists.
I changed both sensors, but I am now getting code of PO410. This is code for a secondary air injection system malfunction ??
It will fire but not idle and runs super bad - lots of exhaust smells very gassy.
Any ideas ??
I had heaters on it all day just in case something needed thawing - its very cold where i live.
When I turn the ignition key to run position but not to start, under the hood I hear a high quiet wine, maybe that's normal.
Any ideas?
But my problem persists.
I changed both sensors, but I am now getting code of PO410. This is code for a secondary air injection system malfunction ??
It will fire but not idle and runs super bad - lots of exhaust smells very gassy.
Any ideas ??
I had heaters on it all day just in case something needed thawing - its very cold where i live.
When I turn the ignition key to run position but not to start, under the hood I hear a high quiet wine, maybe that's normal.
Any ideas?
Last edited by hugfro; 02-12-2013 at 08:25 PM.
#13
I think they are original - the car only has less than 40,000 miles.
I drove it just a few blocks. Parked it for a couple of hours and then when I started it, it ran really really rough. And its very cold here.
I still have the 037 and 138 codes even though I replaced the sensors and the 410 code. But I think the super rough idle and gassy smell is a diff prob.
I drove it just a few blocks. Parked it for a couple of hours and then when I started it, it ran really really rough. And its very cold here.
I still have the 037 and 138 codes even though I replaced the sensors and the 410 code. But I think the super rough idle and gassy smell is a diff prob.
Last edited by hugfro; 02-12-2013 at 09:45 PM.
#14
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Well, plugs and coils last for about 25k to 30k miles. Having said that, I believe you should also change your ignition components. The p410 code is most likely your air pump failing. It should not cause any issues with performance as it only operates during warm up. You could just disconnect the air pump.
Did you reset the ECU after replacing the sensors?
Did you reset the ECU after replacing the sensors?
#15
I did the tap on the brake 20 times in 8 seconds piece - if that is resetting the ecu.
Should I pull and inspect spark plugs next to see if the problem has to do with coils? - although I gotta think that the plugs won't look good after the rough running and gassy exhaust.
Where's a good place to get ignition components - just average components.
Should I pull and inspect spark plugs next to see if the problem has to do with coils? - although I gotta think that the plugs won't look good after the rough running and gassy exhaust.
Where's a good place to get ignition components - just average components.
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By looking at the plugs you will not really figure out if your coils are shot or not. I definitely suggest changing all components. Do not use whatever quality on plugs, coils, and wires. As far as plugs, the stock ones are the best you can get for the car. Stock coils and wires are reliable solutions but if you want to spend more money and get something better look at the BHR kit. Places like mazmart run some bundle deals ($315 for everything). However, lots of members have bought "stock looking coils" from advance auto parts for a very cheap price and life time warranty. Look here for more info: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...-coils-210238/
To delete all the codes you need to disconnect the battery. However, do not do this if your car is not warmed because after you disconnect the battery it is highly possible your car will stall (so you do not want to flood the car). The reason for this is that the car tries to relearn the fuel trims. You will need to drive the car for a few driving cycles (start the car drive a bit, turn off the car = 1 driving cycle). Usually after 3-4 cycles everything gets back to normal.
To delete all the codes you need to disconnect the battery. However, do not do this if your car is not warmed because after you disconnect the battery it is highly possible your car will stall (so you do not want to flood the car). The reason for this is that the car tries to relearn the fuel trims. You will need to drive the car for a few driving cycles (start the car drive a bit, turn off the car = 1 driving cycle). Usually after 3-4 cycles everything gets back to normal.
#17
Hey thanks alot for your help.
I changed the coils and now she runs great!
After I changed them, it ran crappy for a couple of minutes (burning all the excess off) and then it smoothed right out and idled nicely. I am so relieved.
thanks again
I changed the coils and now she runs great!
After I changed them, it ran crappy for a couple of minutes (burning all the excess off) and then it smoothed right out and idled nicely. I am so relieved.
thanks again
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Great to hear....thats what I thought would fix it...
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