For some reason, just within the past month or two, my RX-8 seems to lose power as soon as the rpms get to 6k. Doesn't matter what gear or what speed...at 6K it doesn't go any higher. I brought it in and they think they need to reflash it (what a surprise) - anyone else see this? They also said it might be because additives in the gas in new York, but that doesn't make sense. If the additives were causing powerloss, why would it happen instantly at 6000rpms. WOuldn't it be gradual? It's like there the chip is just cutting my power at 6000, it dips down a little then tries to climb again, repeat... I did notice this originally at lower rpms when the car is cold, which I understand, but when i've been driving it for 20 minutes, i except it to to rev to whatever rpm i want.

 

It sounds like something on the intake tract isn't opening. Maybe the auxillary port motor is bad? Just a guess. It doesn't sound like a flash issue. It would have always been there if that were the case. It also doesn't sound like bad gas. Your car runs good or it doesn't.

 

flashes are on hold. bad software. dont let them flash it. they'll probably be told that when they call the tech line. did you have any CELs or did they find any Codes? could be a burnt coil etc. ever flooded it?

 

I seem to have a problem with the check engine light going on, but it always turns out to be something stupid - so it came on again...literally an hour after getting it turned off, its back on. That was a week ago when they flashed it based on that recall flash that everyone was getting...ever since then the check engine light went back on and things have been shitty with performance. The power gets a little hickup around 2-3k and then is jerkey and is pinned at 6k. I did flood it once months ago...i went away for a week and someone moved the car about 2 feet.

 

ok so the flash done a week ago was a bad flash and thats what the cels are most likely from. did you get the codes? second the flood could have hurt your CAT which may be breaking down and clogging causing your power loss at higher rpms. basically no air out = no air in.

 

More then likly its the CAT, They were having problems with them falling apart inside cloggin up inside the pipe.

Thats exactly how mine was, they had to order a new CAT. When they pulled off the old CAT the catlyst fell apart..

 

my car revs to redline - it just feels slow between 6k and about 7500...I think the CZ would fix a lot of that, however.

 

I had the same problem..........have the dealer.......install a new cat, spark plugs(get the hotter leading plugs)..........ignition coils........and this will solve your problem.........

 

In addition to the above suggestions, I personally would suggest you have the dealership check your coil packs for melting.

 

Just wondering... Is this an AT or MT? MT losing power at 6k is a lot worse than an AT considering the AT redlines sooner.

 

This is a MT...it drives me crazy, because the guy at the dealership was like "Are you one of those people who read the forums?"...without even looking at the car he thinks its the gas...he must be psychic...i feel a dealership change coming on. I don't know a ton about cars, but I know when the power output isn't right...

 

Is not the gas....if it is, then I would definately have that problem since I fill up everywhere in Queens and Bklyn. Which dealer is telling you that? Should try Great Neck Mazda in Long Island. Like everybody has said, if you go into limp mode at 6K then is most likely the cat or coils....At least is better than going limp mode at 3K :p

Al

 

This happened to me once last week when it was real cold outside. I opened it up about 5 minutes after starting, and it was like I experienced fuel cutoff somewhere between 6K and 7K RPM. I tried it again about 5 minutes later and no problem. I think it is related to engine protection - I wasn't quite at normal operating temp yet. In 1.5 years of ownership, I've only had this happen a couple of times (of course it doesn't get very cold around here).

stauffec - where does your temp gauge sit when the car is warmed up? Mines about 1/8" left of center. Maybe you have a bad thermostat?

 

this was definitely engine protection...in the cold winters (-15f last week ) the car had warmed for atleast 20 minutes at idle and 10 minutes driving (estimated) and still this occurred for me...but I think it was due to low battery voltage on mine, everything is fine now

LET THE CAR WARM UP FOR A WHILE, WHEN YOU THINK IT IS READY GIVE IT A FEW MORE MINUTES :D

 

I found the info, you must have missed it when you searched for 'kill cat'

 

the raw gas ignites in the cat and over heats them. the stress from the contracting and expanding so rapidly weakens the catalyst and it eventually breaks. a large portion of the failed cats that the car history was checked on showed new plugs installed a tthe port or dealership before the car was purchased. this is standard procedure for flood repairs.

 

well i had something similar at 6000 once....did u by chance just switch to an aftermarket intake? i noticed when i added the K and N open air intake taht it was very loud but at 6000 the power would just stop....it felt dead. then i took it out immediately and went with the revi intake airbox type....without the ram air duct cuz i couldnt afford it....this time the car was alot better..normal power structure all the way up to 9000rpm....with an occaisional cut at 6000 again due to the fact that the ram air duct wasnt in place and the stock air tube wasnt even there....then when i added the ram air duct the car was perfect......so i think ur problem is absolutely in take related....also i use a octance booster /cleanser regularly....from STP in an orange bottle....get it at walmart for like 3 bucks a bottle....i use it often and that might help...i notice the idle is a little smoother.....i havent had any misfire or CEL lightups either. the cars been good except for a little whistle noise at the beginning of accel....which im told is a rotary thing....do u hear it? its very faint like a turbo whistle but very quiet and goes away when the accel. is pressed further. but anyway i think its intake related....if u just went to an open air big tube intake get rid of it.....they are no good...get the REVIram air. good luck

 

bad secondary port motor or bad cat IF car is having power loss above 6k only.
Silverrbrx8-- why are you using the stp ocatne booster/cleaner reguraly? Octane WILL not help anything and a cleanser may. But you dont have to do that often. Just wind your car up to 8k once a day and use good gas. Then be careful what cleanser you use . Some may cause cat damage. I use Techron maybe twice a year. I run Shell 93 octane always. Maybe you need a new set of plugs?
olddragger

 

well by regularly i mean every 6 tanks or so.....but if u say it can cause damage then ill stop....it just idles so nice with it.....just a little quieter purr. but just get on it onece a day and that will help? as for the cat, ive had the car 2 months or so and im getting a new midpipe in week or two so cat damage isnt a big deal right now. id love to go offroad pipe but they inspect so often here ill never pass. anyway i had his 6000 rpm cutoff problem until i put my new intake in and got rid of that lousy k and N set up. its like the car preferred a little back pressure for the tighter setup of the revi too.

 

Hey guys, I am just doing some research on intakes and caught this thread. I have a question for you since this is so fresh and people are still reading this....

I replaced the B pipe with the HKS exhaust upgrade. I live in FL and a catalytic converter is not required by law because we have no emission rules now. If I removed the cat would Mazda void the warranty? I know they were concerned with the sensor and said the Bpipe wouldn't void the warranty.

If the cats are causing what I would call the staggar in acceleration in the powerband which may be in the 6rpm area (I dont usually catch it when it happens, but do notice that there is a stagger from time to time while driving) would removing it all together resolve the issue? I don't think removing it in NY is an option based on emissions.

Any comments on that?

My loss of power from time to time is minimal so there is no real prob to fix. but am curious on the opinions of removing it vs replacing it vs leave as is.

those that have installed the revi have messed with the sensor up there (I think) and have no issues with warranty until something breaks. same thing with the other sensor near the cat, i would assume.

 

If you pop the cat out, it will trigger a CEL...not a big deal, its just trying to tell you there is a problem with the cat (cause the car doesnt know the difference from NO cat to a cat that isnt working). It will get louder, and free up a little bit of power around the top of the power band, near red line.

Im not sure if this happens in all cases, but sometimes the car will change its A/F maps if the cat isnt working right.

Im not sure, but USUALY the cars warrenty is fine as long as the mods to the drivetrain dont affect the emissions system. That is why most of the time they are ok with an intake that doesnt affect the MAF sensor, or an exhaust that is AFTER the cat (cat back) as long as it keeps all sensors in place (after cat o2 sensor).

Taking the cat off DOES effect the emissions system, so you would have to ask your dealer, but I would think they would void the drivetrain part of your warrenty.

 

Ok, so suddenly I am having the same problem. My car won't rev past 6000 rpm, and I took it in and they told me I "wasn't having the problem anymore." Of course, after leaving the dealership, it was still there. Wood Mazda in Santa Rosa, what idiots.

I'm bringing mine in tomorrow to Royal in SF to see if they want to fix the actual problem.

 

dealer did the same thing to me, tired to tell me they fixed it the first time, and nohting was wrong the 2nd time, finaly the 3rd time they took it in, I had the service manage, the tech working on the car and the sales manager all ride with me, so they know there is a problem....maby now they will actualy get to the bottom of it.