Hi All!

Ok I have a '07 with 130,000km on it. I've noticed lately a lack of power, hard starts and rough idle.

I have replaced the starter motor with an s2, and I purchased (but not installed) a set of BHR coils, wires, plugs - and I also purchased a s2 pump assembly arriving today.

I thought I was getting a head of the problem preemptively ordering the pump - but literally 2 days later my car wouldn't start after a drive to work.

It cranked and sounded like it wanted to - or would almost catch then would die. I tried the pedal the floor for 2 sets of 8 seconds to try and clear a possible flood (my car has never flooded on me in 10 years) - but when I went to start normally, the engine only cranks and there is now absolutely no attempt to start - it just cranks freely.

Also when I hooked up my jumper-pack to support battery for cranking, I noticed my positive battery terminal was causing my starter to crank slower then it should - but I fixed by slipping on a terminal over-post to re-establish a tight connection. Don't know if that was the initial cause of the flood? - IF it even is flooded??

My OEM coils are about 40-50k on them, and fuel pump is original.

Right now the car was towed to my driveway, but I'm not sure what I should do next to narrow it down. If I installed new coils and plugs, and my pump is bad, could I hurt the new coils and visaversa? Should I first install plugs and see if that helps?

Looking for some help with an experienced member "what would you do next"!

Thank you!!

 

A weak battery can cause a flood.
Be sure your battery has, and can hold a charge.
Install your new ignition parts, do the deflood procedure, and proceed from there.

 

Thank you BC! I installed a new battery a few years ago, sealed AGM, should be good for a while, BUT the positive connector was loose so that could have done it.

So I'll do the ignition upgrades first, then if still problems assume it's the pump.

 

My last battery died after 3 years.
If you charge it fully, and it starts to turn slower after a few cranks, it's probably bad.

 

OK I installed the BHR coils and new plugs/wires. They were crudded up for sure, especially the rotor closest to the rear of vehicle (and especially the trailing plugs). I cranked it over no fuse for pump and foot to gas-pedal floor for good measure without any plugs for a about 10 sets spread over 30 min to make sure toasty-dry. I cleaned up around the holes (no liquid fuel seemed to be expelled, just vapor) before reassembly.

Car still won't start, still sounds as if it wasn't getting any fuel - even though the fuse is back in and not touching the gas pedal - aside from a compression note with the plugs in, the sound in the same as I cranked it. I shut off and immediately pulled the fuel line, barely as dribble came out as I lifted the quick disconnect off - should it be spraying out? Does this point to fuel pump now?

Thoughts very welcome! Been in my driveway for a while now

 

It should be 60psi. I highly suggest getting a proper fuel pressure gauge if you value you life. And actually try to troubleshoot the problem, it will save you some cash.

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html

 

Check.

Considering my bush-league test I can assume there is nothing close to 60psi coming from the pump?

I already have a new s2 pump\assembly here, I guess I'll see if I can get a hold of a rental fuel line repair kit so I can add the new quick connect adapter I purchased to modify the s2 to my s1 (as read on this site..)

 

Thanks for the link! Just for some history here I already had coils and fuel pump to get ahead of service interval and a pump with 130k on it. Then the car died, so I'm installing parts I already had and planning to - not just buying parts to fix

 

Yeah if you had fuel pressure when you pulled that line of you would have known it. It holds pressure even when the pump is off.

 

Ok the new pump is in and still no start darn...

It winds strongly, and I hear almost the end of a cough on the note, like a very far off attempt to start (maybe just sound of compression...)

So new coils, plugs, wire and fuel pump and nada. Thoughts? Is it tow to dealer time?

 

Compression Test results from the dealer rotor 1 @ 3.5 (they gave me all 3 numbers, but that was average, low of 3.2), rotor 2 @ 6.8. Now I have to figure our a new engine option, at least I have new plugs/coils/fuel plump to plug into it

 

Check with the knowledgeable Canada folks here to help with rebuilt engine options. There are no new Renesis engines anymore, as you know. Best to you.