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seized toe and camber bolt removal question.

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Old 09-16-2015 | 05:53 PM
  #1  
titaneum_grey's Avatar
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Grey Boy
 
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From: Long Island, N.Y.
seized toe and camber bolt removal question.

Hi,
The toe and camber bolts on my front control arms are all seized. The camber, in the front, seems like it will be easy enough to cut out with a cutting wheel. But the toe adjustment bolt sits inside the frame. I might be able to get to the bottom with a sawsall and a long metal blade but that doesn't look like it will work with the top.

Anyone do this or have tips?

Regards.
Attached Thumbnails seized toe and camber bolt removal question.-imgp5868.jpg  

Last edited by titaneum_grey; 09-16-2015 at 05:55 PM.
Old 09-16-2015 | 05:56 PM
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Heat, penetrate, BFH, and patience.
Old 09-16-2015 | 07:47 PM
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^^^ +1

I just went through this. The subframe had to be dropped to cut the camber bolts out, no amount of heat, banging or penetrant was making a difference. They were not recognizable as bolts when finally removed.

I would consider how necessary this repair is, it's going to suck.
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
Old 09-16-2015 | 08:01 PM
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Oh yeah thats a total bitch. I couldn't reach any kind of cutter in there. But torching it until it was cherry red did work. Try torching it until its red and smacking it with a BFH. It came loose for me. You def need new bolts, washer and nuts. Only available at the dealer. And they're not cheap.

I still have to do my left side so I might try to fit a a sawzall in there. May try that and see if it cuts the bolt. Be prepared to have jelly arms the next day tho.
Old 09-16-2015 | 09:20 PM
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titaneum_grey's Avatar
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From: Long Island, N.Y.
Originally Posted by Loki
^^^ +1

I just went through this. The subframe had to be dropped to cut the camber bolts out, no amount of heat, banging or penetrant was making a difference. They were not recognizable as bolts when finally removed.

I would consider how necessary this repair is, it's going to suck.
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
I was thinking, actually more like dreading, dropping the front end but I see where you are right about dropping the sub-frame. As I am up on jacks and will be doing this on my back.
Right now my camber is even, L+R and both toe within a few decimal points. Or at least they were before I stated loosening and banging away on it.
My problem is the front end binds when in turns, always has. I tried Mazda Speed shocks and springs but with little improvement. It was suggested that a camber adjustment could solve that problem. Plus, I just cut out and replace my rear, seized, control arms.
If I can't find a better way, I might have to farm this one out or live with it like it is.

Last edited by titaneum_grey; 09-16-2015 at 09:24 PM.
Old 09-16-2015 | 11:04 PM
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From: Burls On
I took mine in for this operation... Caster and camber bolts... Took a guy with a full shop and a great set of tools 6 hours to get the bolts out... after an hour of trying to get them to move...

Money well spent.

Last edited by DarkBrew; 09-16-2015 at 11:07 PM.
Old 09-16-2015 | 11:39 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Loki
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
... only if you don't mind them having more flex/movement than the OE bushings ...
Old 09-16-2015 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
... only if you don't mind them having more flex/movement than the OE bushings ...
More info please?
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