She died but WHY????
#28
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
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It ain't the 120A as people already pointed out.....but "yes" you could visual tell if it's blown.
I believe he either has a dead(low) battery or extremely dirty connections to the battery. But in any case, he needs to get that meter on there as NYCGPS points out and see what he reads. Either that, or get it started(pull/push start) and head to Autozone(or somewhere) to have the charging system checked out.
I believe he either has a dead(low) battery or extremely dirty connections to the battery. But in any case, he needs to get that meter on there as NYCGPS points out and see what he reads. Either that, or get it started(pull/push start) and head to Autozone(or somewhere) to have the charging system checked out.
#32
The devil made me do it
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Uhhh...the alternator generates electricity while the vehicle is running. The only thing you can measure with the car off is the battery...which only proves that the battery is below where it should be. Remeasure at the battery.
And yes...to answer your question...lack of fuel will cause a car to stall suddenly.
And yes...to answer your question...lack of fuel will cause a car to stall suddenly.
#34
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Alternator output will be ~14.4V.... but again, the car needs to be running.
Looking back at a previous post, you said that the car doesn't do anything when you attempt to start... right?
You quoted, "lights up normally like if it was going to start but doesnt no clicking like if it was the battery no sputtering nothing just silence".
If that is the case, it has nothing to do with fuel.
Measure voltage at the battery terminals.
If you read below 10V, then charge it or get a new one.
If it reads above 10V, then proceed further with my post.
I'm curious if the starter motor even attempts to run.
Get under the car and listen/feel for the starter to run while someone else turns the key to 'start'.
If the starter doesn't attempt to run, it'll greatly narrow down what is wrong.
Also test voltage to the starter to verify its getting/not getting anything.
Also tell me this... even though you mentioned having power to some devices, check a couple others.
Turn the key to 'ON' and see if you have power to:
1) Cigarette lighter
2) Truck Lid Opener
3) Outer Power Mirrors
#35
The devil made me do it
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battery might be fine but it needed a charge...could have been from you trying to start it so much or it could have been that the alternator died. Personally I would install the battery again and give it a try for ***** and giggles and hope it was a loose wire. If you really want to go down the starter route crawl under the car and remove the three bolts and take it up to Autozone too...they can test it.
#36
You are reading the voltage from the battery since the car isn't running.
Alternator output will be ~14.4V.... but again, the car needs to be running.
Looking back at a previous post, you said that the car doesn't do anything when you attempt to start... right?
You quoted, "lights up normally like if it was going to start but doesnt no clicking like if it was the battery no sputtering nothing just silence".
If that is the case, it has nothing to do with fuel.
Measure voltage at the battery terminals.
If you read below 10V, then charge it or get a new one.
If it reads above 10V, then proceed further with my post.
I'm curious if the starter motor even attempts to run.
Get under the car and listen/feel for the starter to run while someone else turns the key to 'start'.
If the starter doesn't attempt to run, it'll greatly narrow down what is wrong.
Also test voltage to the starter to verify its getting/not getting anything.
Also tell me this... even though you mentioned having power to some devices, check a couple others.
Turn the key to 'ON' and see if you have power to:
1) Cigarette lighter
2) Truck Lid Opener
3) Outer Power Mirrors
Alternator output will be ~14.4V.... but again, the car needs to be running.
Looking back at a previous post, you said that the car doesn't do anything when you attempt to start... right?
You quoted, "lights up normally like if it was going to start but doesnt no clicking like if it was the battery no sputtering nothing just silence".
If that is the case, it has nothing to do with fuel.
Measure voltage at the battery terminals.
If you read below 10V, then charge it or get a new one.
If it reads above 10V, then proceed further with my post.
I'm curious if the starter motor even attempts to run.
Get under the car and listen/feel for the starter to run while someone else turns the key to 'start'.
If the starter doesn't attempt to run, it'll greatly narrow down what is wrong.
Also test voltage to the starter to verify its getting/not getting anything.
Also tell me this... even though you mentioned having power to some devices, check a couple others.
Turn the key to 'ON' and see if you have power to:
1) Cigarette lighter
2) Truck Lid Opener
3) Outer Power Mirrors
power @ starter is @ 12.21ish
have power to all
1) Cigarette lighter
2) Truck Lid Opener
3) Outer Power Mirror
Get under the car and listen/feel for the starter to run while someone else turns the key to 'start'
i will check if i hear anything as soon as my brother gets home
#37
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
battery is at 12.26
power @ starter is @ 12.21ish
have power to all
1) Cigarette lighter
2) Truck Lid Opener
3) Outer Power Mirror
Get under the car and listen/feel for the starter to run while someone else turns the key to 'start'
i will check if i hear anything as soon as my brother gets home
power @ starter is @ 12.21ish
have power to all
1) Cigarette lighter
2) Truck Lid Opener
3) Outer Power Mirror
Get under the car and listen/feel for the starter to run while someone else turns the key to 'start'
i will check if i hear anything as soon as my brother gets home
The motor doesn't attempt to turn?
#41
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Do this... on the right side of the clutch pedal bracket, you'll see a switch with a white plunger that makes contact with a green pad.
With your finger, press in this switch/plunger and attempt to start the car.
With this switch in, you won't need to press the pedal in.
#47
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Wow... did you actually remove the starter to see if the drive gear was spinning?
Reason I'm back to the starter is because we've verified voltage all the way up to the ignition switch.
You also verified voltage with a few components off the ACC fuse, which the starter relay uses.
This also rules out the 120A Main fuse since that is before the 30A ACC fuse...
Starter relay would be the only other thing to rule out... but that wouldn't explain your original problem.
Then we're back to the battery itself...
Reason I'm back to the starter is because we've verified voltage all the way up to the ignition switch.
You also verified voltage with a few components off the ACC fuse, which the starter relay uses.
This also rules out the 120A Main fuse since that is before the 30A ACC fuse...
Starter relay would be the only other thing to rule out... but that wouldn't explain your original problem.
Then we're back to the battery itself...