So Who belongs to the New engine club?
04-11-2010, 09:28 PM
#726
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So i picked my car up today with the new engine and wow what a difference. I just have a question that i need to get answered. when they told me i was getting a new engine he said that it may be new or it may be a reman he was not sure which. So when i picked it up i asked which it was because A) im curious and B) i thought they only gave us remans...... he said he didnt know. Is there any way to figure it out? I have my papers from the whole deal and it has part numbers and such for the Engine Short block MT. I was wondering if there was a difference somwhere on the invoice that will tell me if it is new or reman. Thanks
Check and see if it has a rebuilt stamp on the front cover, its located when looking at the engine to the right of the alternators big mounting bolt(14mm I believe) but to its to the right of that bolt alont the side. It would be a blue/silver stamp, with 75k miles you should be conscerned with the engines life on a AT, they tent to need rebuilds around then but its covered under the 8yr/100k miles warranty. Its not bad if its a rebuild but its nice to know where your motors lifespan sits.
04-14-2010, 10:29 PM
#727
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Yea i have actually found out that sleepy himself is the one that rebuilt the engine that was put in my car. He marks the ones he does so he knows if any of his come back, so i got it figured out.
04-15-2010, 10:51 AM
#728
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
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04-16-2010, 08:06 PM
#729
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umm i cant really get a camera down there to take a pic, but he marks the front pully bolt. If you look on the front of your engine its the big pully down at the bottom. He puts a J on that bolt that holds the pully on. My J is a yellow one but he said the colors change.
04-21-2010, 09:03 PM
#730
RX8 RX8!
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Getting a new engine. Car is a 2004, 9/2003 Build, 65k miles currently, dino oil changed every 3k miles. Latest PCM flash, upgraded starter, battery, alternator, and 4 sets of new plugs/coils since inception, new 2009 Transmission installed, recall performed, new AC compressor.
Sunday evening driving car and under WOT 6.5k rpm, engine is misfiring and does not sound right, CEL blinking. Had a similar issue before, so I thought it was the ignition system. Went home and got my dealer paperwork) for parts warranty as I had coils, plugs, and wires changed again 5/2009) then limped her to dealership. Noticed something as I was idleing the car, smoke coming out the exhaust that looks like burning oil. This did not happen previous time. The car's been in the shop since they looked at it Monday morning.
Got a call from dealership Tues and said they did compression tests and vacuum test and a road test (I'm not sure if they went through the entire lack of power TSB) and said they are going to change out the following Wed morning:
1.Cat
2.Coils
3.Sparkplugs
4.O2 Sensor (only one not under warranty)
They said they would test drive her again after this has been done.
Got a call today and said I'm getting a new engine. Weird part is the dealer said they can get a new engine in tomorrow afternoon and have it installed by Friday so I can pick up the car that afternoon.
Aren't engines coming from CA? God, I hope I get a good engine. The old one (RIP) was pretty strong.
Sunday evening driving car and under WOT 6.5k rpm, engine is misfiring and does not sound right, CEL blinking. Had a similar issue before, so I thought it was the ignition system. Went home and got my dealer paperwork) for parts warranty as I had coils, plugs, and wires changed again 5/2009) then limped her to dealership. Noticed something as I was idleing the car, smoke coming out the exhaust that looks like burning oil. This did not happen previous time. The car's been in the shop since they looked at it Monday morning.
Got a call from dealership Tues and said they did compression tests and vacuum test and a road test (I'm not sure if they went through the entire lack of power TSB) and said they are going to change out the following Wed morning:
1.Cat
2.Coils
3.Sparkplugs
4.O2 Sensor (only one not under warranty)
They said they would test drive her again after this has been done.
Got a call today and said I'm getting a new engine. Weird part is the dealer said they can get a new engine in tomorrow afternoon and have it installed by Friday so I can pick up the car that afternoon.
Aren't engines coming from CA? God, I hope I get a good engine. The old one (RIP) was pretty strong.
05-15-2010, 01:49 PM
#732
L' Dove
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RX8 2005, got my engine replaced Feb 2009, Car died in driveway >>towed to full circle dealership 120 miles away. Remanufactured install, my engine was nice, this one is crap. Have had major vibration, fixed, now strange noises and it is dead again today! I want my first engine back __ rebuilt and back to me! Someone beat the hell out of this one.
06-07-2010, 08:52 AM
#735
Jefecito87
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well i may be joining the new engine club..... 
on friday i lost allllll power on the highway put new coils plugs and cables on took foreverrrr to start it but did sputtering like mad drove around the block and nothing my toyota paseo could fly it
afterward we did a compression test seems like both rotors barely had any pressure so i sucked it up had my friend drive behind me and drove to the nearest mazda which i hate since the service is the worst but i barely got there it turned off a couple times on the highway but i popped the clutch and turned back on and then pulled in the dealer and now i wait for an answer to see what their verdict is
FML
on friday i lost allllll power on the highway put new coils plugs and cables on took foreverrrr to start it but did sputtering like mad drove around the block and nothing my toyota paseo could fly itafterward we did a compression test seems like both rotors barely had any pressure so i sucked it up had my friend drive behind me and drove to the nearest mazda which i hate since the service is the worst but i barely got there it turned off a couple times on the highway but i popped the clutch and turned back on and then pulled in the dealer and now i wait for an answer to see what their verdict is
FML
06-07-2010, 09:40 AM
#737
Jefecito87
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ok quick question im sure ill get a rental if it is a "factory" issue as they all say but how long has the whole process taken??? im not assuming just a few im guessing about 3 weeks
06-17-2010, 07:58 PM
#738
Man, We Ain't Found Sh*t!
06-17-2010, 08:16 PM
#739
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
bigireland: for the drive tomorrow, make sure you vary the rpm's a bit on the freeway, keep it below 4k.
06-20-2010, 10:04 AM
#741
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Thread Starter
06-20-2010, 10:08 AM
#742
LOL that may be true. But I couldn't have done it without my friends help. the job really needs 2 people if its your first rebuild... there are soooooo many things can be easily messed up.
Anyways yea I'm awaiting the results as well. As soon as she runs I'm going to break it in and get a compression test.
Anyways yea I'm awaiting the results as well. As soon as she runs I'm going to break it in and get a compression test.
06-20-2010, 10:32 AM
#743
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Just for statistics. The 04 GT I just scored it gave up at 69,000 on the last owner and has 71500 on it now with new reman. I got rid of the excrement weak 5-20w and put 10-30w Valvoline for the rest of the brake-in.
06-20-2010, 12:16 PM
#744
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Thread Starter
just a point of interest:
The clearance specs of the bearings to e-shaft have not changed since the 13b was introduced.
The 5-20w oil recommendation is clearly to get every point of economy out of the keg.
The clearance specs of the bearings to e-shaft have not changed since the 13b was introduced.
The 5-20w oil recommendation is clearly to get every point of economy out of the keg.
06-20-2010, 12:59 PM
#747
Yep. When the engine started to fail it would not go past 4k RPM and had major misfires. It literally died while the head tech was looking at it and would not restart. They determined the PCM was bad and swapped it out. It fired right up and then they did the two compression tests which the engine failed each time.
07-01-2010, 07:37 PM
#748
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Joining the new engine club at 99k. 2004 MT, with a build date in late 2003.
The car had hard starts when hot, and there was a lack of power on the highway when the engine was hot. None of this was extreme, and was mostly noticeable above 80 degrees F. But it was clear to me the engine was not in optimal shape.
I took it to the dealer, and Mazda NA green lighted the new engine under the 100k warranty. They said compression was in the marginal zone, but replaced the engine as opposed to me bitching later. It took about 2 weeks to get the car back, but everything feels good after about 100 miles.
In regards to care of the first engine, I bought the car at 52k, used 10W40, and premixed ca. 4oz Idemitsu every tank. I changed plugs and oil according to the manual, replaced wires and coils at 68k and drove a lot of highway miles.
My suspicion is that most of the damage was done under the prior owners of the car, maybe before the flashes. The new engine *purrs* - it does not sound like the old engine did at any time since I bought the car. It is much smoother, quieter, and has a noticeable gain in power on the low end. This much I know for sure. I only started to pay attention to the hard starts and power loss within the last couple of months, but it is entirely possible that it happened sooner. A little over a year ago I replaced coils, wires and plugs, and that was an improvement by itself. And this is even better.
I'd like to think that the premix took a marginal engine and prolonged its life, but who knows? I'm thankful for the warranty that has certainly extended the life of my car. And I took the opportunity to replace belts, hoses, the clutch, and have them clean the ssv.
So for the moment, all's well that ends well. The original engine made it to 100k, and if this engine takes me that far as well, I suppose I have very little to complain about. I'll be very interested to test out "optimal" engine lubricating tactics from the very beginning of an engine's life. Or at least from 3k on.
The car had hard starts when hot, and there was a lack of power on the highway when the engine was hot. None of this was extreme, and was mostly noticeable above 80 degrees F. But it was clear to me the engine was not in optimal shape.
I took it to the dealer, and Mazda NA green lighted the new engine under the 100k warranty. They said compression was in the marginal zone, but replaced the engine as opposed to me bitching later. It took about 2 weeks to get the car back, but everything feels good after about 100 miles.
In regards to care of the first engine, I bought the car at 52k, used 10W40, and premixed ca. 4oz Idemitsu every tank. I changed plugs and oil according to the manual, replaced wires and coils at 68k and drove a lot of highway miles.
My suspicion is that most of the damage was done under the prior owners of the car, maybe before the flashes. The new engine *purrs* - it does not sound like the old engine did at any time since I bought the car. It is much smoother, quieter, and has a noticeable gain in power on the low end. This much I know for sure. I only started to pay attention to the hard starts and power loss within the last couple of months, but it is entirely possible that it happened sooner. A little over a year ago I replaced coils, wires and plugs, and that was an improvement by itself. And this is even better.
I'd like to think that the premix took a marginal engine and prolonged its life, but who knows? I'm thankful for the warranty that has certainly extended the life of my car. And I took the opportunity to replace belts, hoses, the clutch, and have them clean the ssv.
So for the moment, all's well that ends well. The original engine made it to 100k, and if this engine takes me that far as well, I suppose I have very little to complain about. I'll be very interested to test out "optimal" engine lubricating tactics from the very beginning of an engine's life. Or at least from 3k on.
