Soft Clutch Pedal Upon Start-up and More...
12-30-2012 | 11:42 AM
#51
Has anyone solved this issue yet ? I'm having the same problems. I've installed exedy stage 1hd with exedy lightened flywheel.now I couldn't get into gear in the morning until the car warms ups.
I've changed the clutch master, slave, fork but the stupid problem still persists. Even the garages is scratching their head now.
Really contemplating changing back to oem now.
I've changed the clutch master, slave, fork but the stupid problem still persists. Even the garages is scratching their head now.
Really contemplating changing back to oem now.
Had so many issues with the HD clutch and Exedy swore that my RX8 was the problem. Anyway, returned the HD and got me a Stage 1.......problem solved.
I think there is a manufacture engineering problem with the HD
12-22-2013 | 11:29 AM
#53
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Navarre, FL
Okay so, I just replaced my clutch in my 2004 with the Exedy Stage 1, and same issue: complete disengagement point is past the floor. Won't go into gear with engine running. Was able to start in and drive around in 1st, but could not shift out. Pedal is nice and firm, and I adjusted the free play and stroke. If I brake in 1st with the clutch in, it doesn't stall, so seems like it is only just slipping. I'm going to try tweaking the pedal some more, but seriously considering popping a washer in between the slave and release fork. Is that a bad idea?
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12-22-2013 | 12:19 PM
#54
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From: Navarre, FL
And is the clutch pedal push rod supposed to be straight? I was adjusting my pedal to get more throw (was able to get all forward gears, but not reverse), and I felt good throw until the pedal got stuck, and when lifting it the push rod fell out. It has a slight bend to it about 1/2" south of the 10mm nut. I think when I was tightening the 12mm, it was just pushing the rod out further, and it must have slipped off the pedal then bent under my foot pressure...
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12-22-2013 | 03:08 PM
#55
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From: Navarre, FL
Ya know, now that I'm looking at photos of the slave. I don't think mine had that little cap on it. I wonder if it was lost when the dealer replaced my engine a few years ago, and only the tabs have been pushing on the fork...
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11-10-2014 | 09:56 AM
#57
borrowed
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Central Va
I'm having this issue where the clutch pedal goes to the floor until the car gets warm. After it's warm, no problems. I replaced my clutch last week (not because of this problem), and this problem has actually gotten slightly worse. When it's cold now, it doesn't want to go into gear until I push the clutch pedal several times -- or it might just be a function of the car warming up while I'm pushing the pedal -- I don't know. I do not have any slippage at higher RPMs.
On reading this thread, it seems like the fix was cutting the boot on the slave cylinder? I read the TSB about ethanol, and it makes sense I guess... but my car (with its slave cylinder) is 10 years old (2004 MT), why would this become a problem now?
I've read so many other posts on clutch engagement issues, and some point at the pedal assembly, some to the master and/or slave cylinders, some to throw-out bearings, etc. But this thread seems to most resemble my problem, and the solution seems... unlikely?
I like the defective pedal idea, but my pedal passes visual inspection (no obvious broken welds or tears, bends, etc). It did have a nasty squeak about a year ago that somehow just went away. It does have some left-right motion if I get down there and shake it, but no more than the other pedals. And if this was the problem, why would it disappear when the car is warm?
I like the 'air in the line' idea, too, and I have a speed bleeder kit on the way. But I was already having this problem before I did my clutch. And if I had air in the line, wouldn't it get worse as the car warms?
So my question is: Is cutting the slave cylinder boot really the only thing that fixes this problem?
On reading this thread, it seems like the fix was cutting the boot on the slave cylinder? I read the TSB about ethanol, and it makes sense I guess... but my car (with its slave cylinder) is 10 years old (2004 MT), why would this become a problem now?
I've read so many other posts on clutch engagement issues, and some point at the pedal assembly, some to the master and/or slave cylinders, some to throw-out bearings, etc. But this thread seems to most resemble my problem, and the solution seems... unlikely?
I like the defective pedal idea, but my pedal passes visual inspection (no obvious broken welds or tears, bends, etc). It did have a nasty squeak about a year ago that somehow just went away. It does have some left-right motion if I get down there and shake it, but no more than the other pedals. And if this was the problem, why would it disappear when the car is warm?
I like the 'air in the line' idea, too, and I have a speed bleeder kit on the way. But I was already having this problem before I did my clutch. And if I had air in the line, wouldn't it get worse as the car warms?
So my question is: Is cutting the slave cylinder boot really the only thing that fixes this problem?
12-21-2014 | 10:16 PM
#58
^adjusted my clutch pedal engagement point yesterday and noticed the cold start, soft pedal symptoms today, but it goes away after a few minutes of driving...is cutting the boot the fix? ....how do you cut it?
Last edited by alming1132; 12-21-2014 at 10:19 PM.
12-21-2014 | 10:44 PM
#59
borrowed
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Central Va
Well, my fix was replacing the master cylinder. I'm pretty skeptical of the 'cut the boot' thing. One thing you can try that I did while waiting for my new MC to get here: when it's cold and on the floor, manually pull the pedal up, then push down, pull up a few times. This seemed to fix my issue for a few days at a time, at least long enough for the part to get here.
12-22-2014 | 01:39 AM
#60
Well my pedal doesn't stick to the floor, it's just extremely soft, almost no resistance at all. I can still drive with it, se engagement point and all, then it returns to normal springy-ness after everything warms up. I guess I don't know why this happened all of a sudden? is it because I adjusted the clutch engagement point or is that a coincidence?
Last edited by alming1132; 12-22-2014 at 10:53 AM.
12-13-2021 | 12:02 PM
#62
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Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 4
The only thing the transmission has in common with clutch operation is its input shaft since the release bearing rides on it.
Yes... this tranny came from a vehicle involved in a front-end collision, but keep in mind that the donor's motor was installed in another car and ran great.
The transmission's input shaft inserts into the motor e-shaft, so I highly doubt it has anything to do with it.
The release fork is also from the donor's transmission.
Bending the release fork in the accident is far fetched (I would even go as far as saying impossible), but I appropriate the "out of the box" way of thinking.
Its good to think that way (within reason) on situations where the obvious isn't evident.
Yes... this tranny came from a vehicle involved in a front-end collision, but keep in mind that the donor's motor was installed in another car and ran great.
The transmission's input shaft inserts into the motor e-shaft, so I highly doubt it has anything to do with it.
The release fork is also from the donor's transmission.
Bending the release fork in the accident is far fetched (I would even go as far as saying impossible), but I appropriate the "out of the box" way of thinking.
Its good to think that way (within reason) on situations where the obvious isn't evident.
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