Originally Posted by Slidin8

I'm subbing to this as your a kiwi,

just a thought but have u checked you have the latest ecu flash?

Originally Posted by grisdale

Both moving in gear, moving in neutral or stationary in neutral. The sound goes away as soon as the clutch pedal is pushed down past the freeplay amount (2mm) both when moving or still. My friend also squeezed the slave or master cylinder (not sure what one) with his hand to move the release fork off the pressure plate and the squealing noise completely went away so he said it's definitely the thrust bearing squealing but possibly the pressure plate causing it.

Originally Posted by grisdale

Yup, I took my car to North Harbour Mazda who charged me $180 to tell me my ECU is all up to date... Don't ever take your car there either...

Originally Posted by Slidin8

Brettus seems to be the only one with a straight up answer

Originally Posted by Brettus

gunna make this my new sig LOL

Shady is gunna be sooooooo jealous !

Originally Posted by dannobre

You can change the idle...mine idles at a nice 900-920rpm

Originally Posted by Brettus

the release bearing is only supposed to contact the press plate when you push the clutch in .

Originally Posted by keithmilleson

I just solved my chronic rough idling problem.

You wrote that the throttle body has been serviced twice. Was it actually removed and inspected on the back side? Mine didn't look bad from the accordion tube side but had about a 1/16 layer of deposits on the opposing side. Enough to keep it from freely moving 100%. My dealer NEVER looked when I took mine in for the rough idle. Cleaned properly it should be completely smooth and bare aluminum with no black deposits. It cost me $5 and 30 minutes of my own time. Would have been 15 minutes but I dropped the last bolt for the TB and spent forever looking for it.

Originally Posted by MariesRX8

My 2004 has been like that for years, both before and after an engine replacement, engine mounts, coils/plugs/wires, etc. It's not a terrible vibration, but there's a very noticable difference from the buttery smooth warm idle falling down from 1000, 900 rpm... to the vibrations that only start once it settles at it's lowest point around 850.

I don' t know if it's "normal," but it sure is common. And like you said, maybe we're being fussy, but it's just sooooo nice when just 100 rpms higher.

Sad thing is I don't think I've read a thread where someone said they had this problem, then did [insert magical procedure], and it then idled perfectly smooth.

Originally Posted by Ross_Dawg

my '04 did the same thing, bought a grounding kit and it idles perfectly now

Originally Posted by grisdale

Figure out what’s causing my rough idle and I will Bank Deposit/PayPal you $100 NZD!!

I purchased a 2003 RX8 Type S (6 Speed Manual) about 8 months ago (75,000KM’s), I’ve had 5 mechanics look at it and $7000 later it’s still idling rough.

When it idles it sits between 800-830 with the electronics/aircon off. With lights and rear window defogger on it sits around 820-840 and the vibrations are a lot worse. The vibrations can be felt all over the car, I notice it in both seats and steering wheel but that’s the only part I’m touching.

If I have the car running and open the hood I can see the engine slightly shaking as well as the air intake and airbox. These are constant vibrations but as the idle adjusts you can also feel strong pulses. If I push the RPM to 1000 the vibrations are completely gone and it will be smooth until I let off the gas. If I let the idle drop back to 800 there will be very strong vibrations as the RMP hits 800 then the vibrations will soften and come at a constant rate with intermittent strong pulses.

I have had the following parts replaced in this order:

Full Service and Inspection by Mazda
New Battery
New Spark Plugs
New Air Filter
Full Engine Rebuild
New Starter Motor
New Oil Filter
New Air Filter
New Spark Plugs
Throttle Body Cleaned
New Fan Belts
New Engine Mounts
Post Rebuild Service
New Coils
New Ignition Wires
PCM Flashed to latest JDM version

I have also tried doing the following procedures:

Cleaned the MAF
Cleaned the Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Cleaned Air Intake
Tried Removing Air Intake shields and side buffers
Reset the ECU via brake stomp and odometer button
Disconnected the battery for 30 mins

I run 95/98 fuel, the car runs awesome while driving, dont notice any flat spots and it has lots of power. I don't know much about cars so if you could include instructions with your ideas that would be much appreciated.

I’ve tried to give as much information as I can but if you want to know any info please ask. I also have a cheap ODB2 reader so am able to get readings from the ECU if required.