SSV stuck open.....code P2070.
#28
Like I mentioned before, try moving the SSV valve with a vacuum hand pump attached to the actuator.
If the valve moves smoothly, then its fine and you really have to reason to remove the intake manifold extension... we maybe not.
You could also swap out the SSV solenoid with the VFAD solenoid and see if that works.
Its easier to get to the solenoids with the UIM removed, but heard some have done it without.
Really, you are just removing everything you see attached to the UIM.
Like others have said, don't drop the bolts into the abyss.
Like Brettus mentioned, the disconnects can be a little tricky at first until you realize how it works.
Just pull the disconnect clip out fully and turn/pull the hose off.
And remove the UIM runner for the primary ports, THEN remove the runner for the auxiliary ports. You'll notice the black runners are two separate pieces.
There are two bolts just behind the VFAD nipple that attaches the UIM to a bracket. That can be a pain.
#29
By the way i never did this. I ran a can of seafoam through about 2 gallons of gas twice and sprayed Deep Creep into the throttle body a few times. It's been 12 days with no CEL and i can tell my car is running at 100% (except my speculation that my coils are on their way out -- come on BHR! Just waiting for that PM saying my ignition has been shipped).
Seafoam is incredible stuff. I just hope it cleaned it up enough to where after i install the catch can i wont have another instance of it getting stuck. Cross you fingers!
Thanks all for your help.
Seafoam is incredible stuff. I just hope it cleaned it up enough to where after i install the catch can i wont have another instance of it getting stuck. Cross you fingers!
Thanks all for your help.
#30
There is no problem spraying the Sea Foam into the throttle body, but if you want to focus the fluid onto the SSV, its impossible to do so without removing the UIM (unless you fished a really long tube down the UIM).
There are auxiliary ports/channels just before the primary channel, so the Sea Foam would be distributed between the ports instead of focusing on the primary if you just squirt it through the Throttle Body.
There are auxiliary ports/channels just before the primary channel, so the Sea Foam would be distributed between the ports instead of focusing on the primary if you just squirt it through the Throttle Body.
#31
There is no problem spraying the Sea Foam into the throttle body, but if you want to focus the fluid onto the SSV, its impossible to do so without removing the UIM (unless you fished a really long tube down the UIM).
There are auxiliary ports/channels just before the primary channel, so the Sea Foam would be distributed between the ports instead of focusing on the primary if you just squirt it through the Throttle Body.
There are auxiliary ports/channels just before the primary channel, so the Sea Foam would be distributed between the ports instead of focusing on the primary if you just squirt it through the Throttle Body.
If the CEL pops up again i'm going to bite the bullet and remove the manifold. But for now i'll just hope and pray the Seafoam did the trick.
#32
you can pull the SSV out a lot more easily then removing your whole manifold. basically just requires removal of the ACV pipe and thermostat housing.
wrote up and took some pics of the SSV problem in the DIY forum in the Zoom engine cleaner topic.
kevin.
wrote up and took some pics of the SSV problem in the DIY forum in the Zoom engine cleaner topic.
kevin.
#33
I have a huge problem. I went to my dealer because I've been hearing some 'ticking' noises from my engine when it's idling. No power-loss or any other problems. The dealer call me some hours after I delivered the car and told me the Acuator was broken and the entire manifold would have to be replaced. They told me that they would charge me no less than 2800 USD for only the part! God knows how much they would charge me for the work. They told me that leaving it like it's now would do no harm whatsoever except that the ticking noise would be there. Now to the real problem, a month or so ago I installed a K&N Typhoon Ver 2 Intake. They're of course blaming the intake to have caused more worn on the broken part than it would normally have and they won't do it under warranty because of this. I have a 2005 192 HP manual (european) with 30 000 KM on it. I asked for the part number for the Acuator thing: N3H4 13 100K
#34
Congrats to anyone who can do this fix on their own. After taking my 8 in over half a dozen times to the dealer for idling issues the P2070 code is what they pulled for my check engine light. (last time it was coils) I was quoted parts and labor of $960 for the job and they say a day of work. I was told it is not covered on the engine warranty, which is all I have left. As stated earlier in the thread they have asked for a good lead time on ordering the parts (a week +) I've had stall outs running hot, cold, at low RPMs, high RPMs, and everything in between. It is a pricey fix. I'm afraid i won't be left with any other choice.
#35
gothmogthebalrog- Read this and see if it sounds like what you're experiencing:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/rpm-dropping-%3D-engine-stalling-162200/
Post 30 starts with how I found out the SSV value was stuck and what I did to fix it.
Basically, stuck your finger through the throttle body and feel for oil.
If your finger is black, then you might have the same issue.
Since I got Vyndictive's valve unstuck, he has not encountered these symtoms.
But if it arises again later on, we might just pull out the valve and clean it up better.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/rpm-dropping-%3D-engine-stalling-162200/
Post 30 starts with how I found out the SSV value was stuck and what I did to fix it.
Basically, stuck your finger through the throttle body and feel for oil.
If your finger is black, then you might have the same issue.
Since I got Vyndictive's valve unstuck, he has not encountered these symtoms.
But if it arises again later on, we might just pull out the valve and clean it up better.
#36
ryoma-kun: they're charging you to replace the whole lower intake manifold, labor will be ridiculous as it requires engine removal, probably looking at something like 10hrs at least.
inform them of the p2070 TSB and that they can easily remove and replace just the SSV. let them know youre an informed customer not some dumbass.
also check the DIY forum under the zoom engine cleaner topic, i posted some good pics so you guys can understand what a p2070 is/means.
kevin.
inform them of the p2070 TSB and that they can easily remove and replace just the SSV. let them know youre an informed customer not some dumbass.
also check the DIY forum under the zoom engine cleaner topic, i posted some good pics so you guys can understand what a p2070 is/means.
kevin.
#37
Good Fix
After removing the Intake, I used Seafoam to scrape off the top of valve. I sprayed and let it sit overnight then wiggled the valve back and forth until it moved freely. I had so much oil in the intake tube forward and back it was sad. I've since added a catch can and breather. Start-up was pretty difficult- but this was a definite fix to the problem. a $12 can of sea foam replaced a $1000 trip to the dealer. I've been driving 2 weeks problem free.
#38
After removing the Intake, I used Seafoam to scrape off the top of valve. I sprayed and let it sit overnight then wiggled the valve back and forth until it moved freely. I had so much oil in the intake tube forward and back it was sad. I've since added a catch can and breather. Start-up was pretty difficult- but this was a definite fix to the problem. a $12 can of sea foam replaced a $1000 trip to the dealer. I've been driving 2 weeks problem free.
kevin.
#39
^Who is that crazy man with the long screwdriver... oh wait!
In all seriousness, I only went that far because I followed the oil trail there.
After taking off his intake accordion tube and seeing oil, I just worked my way back until I reached the SSV.
It was then that I noticed the valve was stuck closed.
You can do the same thing. Stick your finger through the throttle body valve and see/feel for oil residue.
If your finger is clean, then there is no reason to go any further.
You can hook up a vacuum pump to the SSV actuator (which you can see my pump in the pic above) and actuate the valve and see if it moves.
If the valve moves, then try swapping out the SSV solenoid with another (like the VFAD).
In all seriousness, I only went that far because I followed the oil trail there.
After taking off his intake accordion tube and seeing oil, I just worked my way back until I reached the SSV.
It was then that I noticed the valve was stuck closed.
You can do the same thing. Stick your finger through the throttle body valve and see/feel for oil residue.
If your finger is clean, then there is no reason to go any further.
You can hook up a vacuum pump to the SSV actuator (which you can see my pump in the pic above) and actuate the valve and see if it moves.
If the valve moves, then try swapping out the SSV solenoid with another (like the VFAD).
#43
After countless hours of reading and searching and cleaning of my engine... ive come to the conclusion after finding this thread that i to am having the same issue. I found jon's write up with the tester video on how to remove the SSV and clean it.
With this as a reference and all the other threads and notations ive found, i plan to take this challenge on in the coming weeks and resolve this issue. however i do have a question.
Ive heard several mentions of catch cans and breather tubes to help prevent this issue in the future. i want to do this particular upgrade to my car, however, im unsure as to where this part would be installed. I havent been able to find any thread on this, if somebody could point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic. Thanks for all the help!
With this as a reference and all the other threads and notations ive found, i plan to take this challenge on in the coming weeks and resolve this issue. however i do have a question.
Ive heard several mentions of catch cans and breather tubes to help prevent this issue in the future. i want to do this particular upgrade to my car, however, im unsure as to where this part would be installed. I havent been able to find any thread on this, if somebody could point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic. Thanks for all the help!
#44
After countless hours of reading and searching and cleaning of my engine... ive come to the conclusion after finding this thread that i to am having the same issue. I found jon's write up with the tester video on how to remove the SSV and clean it.
With this as a reference and all the other threads and notations ive found, i plan to take this challenge on in the coming weeks and resolve this issue. however i do have a question.
Ive heard several mentions of catch cans and breather tubes to help prevent this issue in the future. i want to do this particular upgrade to my car, however, im unsure as to where this part would be installed. I havent been able to find any thread on this, if somebody could point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic. Thanks for all the help!
With this as a reference and all the other threads and notations ive found, i plan to take this challenge on in the coming weeks and resolve this issue. however i do have a question.
Ive heard several mentions of catch cans and breather tubes to help prevent this issue in the future. i want to do this particular upgrade to my car, however, im unsure as to where this part would be installed. I havent been able to find any thread on this, if somebody could point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic. Thanks for all the help!
i'm interested in doing the same thing. I'm going to finally be tackling this project this week. i am going to try to re-use the gaskets...hopefully it works! and i would love to install a catch can as well.........
#45
Install location
https://www.rx8club.com/album.php?al...ictureid=14123
This is how the Weapon R RX-8 specific can looks installed.
There are of course many different types of setups, cans, hose routings that can be done. You can search within the forums for "catch can" or even google image search it. I think I paid about $80 for this can, & it came with the clear hose and clamps. Installed in 10 minutes. It still has to be drained occasionally, but a huge improvement overall.
I ran a breather setup with the intake feed tube capped just before this and noticed my oil pressure/ temp went up slightly. I wasn't keen on this at all- so I hooked it back up as a closed system with the can mid-line.
Last edited by gothmogthebalrog; 01-26-2010 at 11:27 AM. Reason: no pic
#46
Ive heard several mentions of catch cans and breather tubes to help prevent this issue in the future. i want to do this particular upgrade to my car, however, im unsure as to where this part would be installed. I havent been able to find any thread on this, if somebody could point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic. Thanks for all the help!
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-oil-catch-can-install-basic-164463/
#47
AWESOME! thanks guys or all the input. this will def! make this little project much easier to undertake on my own. as for the catch can, def. on the list of needs for the car. hopefully before i do the SSV so i can just take care of it all at once. Thanks again for the input. ill post up what i find and how the task worked out as well as before and after results/pics.
#48
You might want to consider replacing the thermostat gasket.
Last thing you want is to button everything back up just to find a leak.
One local here just had that problem.
You can get it from MazdaTrix for $5.60
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=10-1530-N3H1
Last thing you want is to button everything back up just to find a leak.
One local here just had that problem.
You can get it from MazdaTrix for $5.60
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=10-1530-N3H1
#49
well shoot...now my rx-8 won't start. i had a dead battery a couple weeks ago. i put in a new battery today and it just cranks and cranks.
yesterday i tried to start it using the old battery (after i charged it). it didnt crank very long until the battery was dead. but while it was cranking, smoke was coming out of the exhaust and it smelled like fuel. so was it flooded, fouled plug(s)? i'm going to check for spark.
i changed the plugs, wires, and coil packs a while ago...im guessing around 15k ago...but i have to find the receipt. i posted a link to the video below.
http://www.youtube.com/user/tksnobor.../6/JIUCroSQ5pY
yesterday i tried to start it using the old battery (after i charged it). it didnt crank very long until the battery was dead. but while it was cranking, smoke was coming out of the exhaust and it smelled like fuel. so was it flooded, fouled plug(s)? i'm going to check for spark.
i changed the plugs, wires, and coil packs a while ago...im guessing around 15k ago...but i have to find the receipt. i posted a link to the video below.
http://www.youtube.com/user/tksnobor.../6/JIUCroSQ5pY
Last edited by tksnobords; 01-28-2010 at 04:49 PM. Reason: add
#50
well i think it is all set. it wouldnt start a few days ago because of it flooding. put in a new set of plugs and followed the de-flooding guide. gassed my neighbors...it was the biggest cloud of white smoke i've ever seen . then we pulled the SSV Valve...very dirty. i couldnt even turn it by hand. it took a little while working it back and fourth to get it out...but it finally came out. seems to be pretty good now. thanks alot for all your help guys! especially your video JON. we watched the video a few times before hitting the garage...and it almost felt like we had done it before. mechanics hate people like you hahahhaa....