Stalling at idle
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Stalling at idle
Hey guys.
Few cascading problems on my 2004:
1) Dash went haywire. The throttle at this time was working fine.
2) I reset the ECU when I got home, and when I started it in the morning it stalled a few seconds after starting.
3) The dash gauges continue to function now, but the throttle is acting very strange. If I manually keep the car (with foot on accelerator) around 800 RPM it "idles" just fine, but releasing the pedal (which is unresponsive from light touch to around 25-35%) causes immediate stalling.
Here is my theory: I had an electrical short somewhere. This electrical problem shot the motor for the throttle valve in the head, and now it doesn't respond properly to voltages.
Here's my question: What is the best way to confirm this diagnosis; where can I get the wiring done at a mechanic (dealers are apparently worthless) in the south jersey/ philly/ Delaware area; and does anyone have another idea of what could have caused this?
I got P-codes pending one day that I drove it for TP sensors A and B voltage too high, but they're gone now. Mysterious.
I still have U-codes for an open or short in the CAN system.
The throttle valve is clean and operates spick and spam under manual pressure.
Few cascading problems on my 2004:
1) Dash went haywire. The throttle at this time was working fine.
2) I reset the ECU when I got home, and when I started it in the morning it stalled a few seconds after starting.
3) The dash gauges continue to function now, but the throttle is acting very strange. If I manually keep the car (with foot on accelerator) around 800 RPM it "idles" just fine, but releasing the pedal (which is unresponsive from light touch to around 25-35%) causes immediate stalling.
Here is my theory: I had an electrical short somewhere. This electrical problem shot the motor for the throttle valve in the head, and now it doesn't respond properly to voltages.
Here's my question: What is the best way to confirm this diagnosis; where can I get the wiring done at a mechanic (dealers are apparently worthless) in the south jersey/ philly/ Delaware area; and does anyone have another idea of what could have caused this?
I got P-codes pending one day that I drove it for TP sensors A and B voltage too high, but they're gone now. Mysterious.
I still have U-codes for an open or short in the CAN system.
The throttle valve is clean and operates spick and spam under manual pressure.
#2
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Could someone do me a solid and let me know if this is normal, or even better, upload a similar graph?
This graph compares accelarator pedal position on the x axis to relative throttle position on the y axis while the car is not running, but in the "on" position. Somewhere around 75% pedal position, the throttle starts to open very quickly; to 100% open somewhere around 80-85% pedal position.
My understanding is that at 0% accelerator pedal position the relative throttle should be around 5%; rising to 100% slowly and gradually around 85% accelerator pedal position. Could someone confirm or deny this, or upload your own graph?
I made this simply by charting in excel the output from my torque app watching REL_TP and APP E and APP D. Even just sending me the data from these PIDS on a normal RX8 would be awesome.
Thanks guys
This graph compares accelarator pedal position on the x axis to relative throttle position on the y axis while the car is not running, but in the "on" position. Somewhere around 75% pedal position, the throttle starts to open very quickly; to 100% open somewhere around 80-85% pedal position.
My understanding is that at 0% accelerator pedal position the relative throttle should be around 5%; rising to 100% slowly and gradually around 85% accelerator pedal position. Could someone confirm or deny this, or upload your own graph?
I made this simply by charting in excel the output from my torque app watching REL_TP and APP E and APP D. Even just sending me the data from these PIDS on a normal RX8 would be awesome.
Thanks guys
#3
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Link to picture of graph: http://imgur.com/XqGG4vf
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