Stalling in Neutral, P0335 and P0172
12-09-2019, 08:51 PM
#1
Stalling in Neutral, P0335 and P0172
A little background...
I own a 2005 Shinka with 77K miles and i've been premixing, running a BHR ignition, moroso plug wires, and an optima red top battery since 2015 when it was purchased bone stock at 41K miles with a great maintenance history and excellent compression. The intake is a RB Revi with duct and I am also running thier catless midpipe with no CEL. The starter was replaced with a 14 tooth unit about a year ago and I always stay on top of basic maintenance, the sensors are regularly cleaned, etc.
I have a compression tester and only recently has compression started to degrade slightly but still making good power and no issues up until now. The car idles great for the most part and starts up well hot or cold, if not a little longer when cold. SSV has never been cleaned but the actuator moves freely with a vaccum pump applied.
Alright... so this all started about 2 months ago after 4 years of trouble free ownership...one day the tach randomly dropped to 0 rpms while crusing and the traction light came on. I tested the battery with a multimeter and pulled the negative terminal which solved that issue...fast forward about a week later while driving home one night I started to feel a lack of power and got a loud backfire out of my midpipe followed by a misfire flashing CEL. Initially it threw a P0172 running rich in addition to the misfire code. I limped it back and did a battery pull and ESS profile reset. I suspected the spark plugs were on the way out as they had close to 20K on them. Swapped them out and cleaned the MAF and ESS for good measure as well and it ran great for about 2 weeks.
On another random trip the lack of power showed up again and when I was coasting in neutral to come to a stop the RPMs dropped fast, bounced off zero then surged and stalled. This time I got a P0335 for an eccentric shaft position sensor circuit issue. Another battery pull and ESS reset solved the issue temporarily again for another 2 weeks.
Yesterday the issues returned only this time at about 4500 RPM it was like hitting a wall and lack of power followed by every stop or coast in neutral leading to a stall and having to restart and limp home. Both of the same codes also returned. Again, I reset the ESS and fuel trims by pulling the battery which did solve the issue again temporarily.
At this point after countless searches and research into similar situations I am running out of ideas as to what could be wrong for the car to run well then suddenly revert back to this condition several times now.
I own a 2005 Shinka with 77K miles and i've been premixing, running a BHR ignition, moroso plug wires, and an optima red top battery since 2015 when it was purchased bone stock at 41K miles with a great maintenance history and excellent compression. The intake is a RB Revi with duct and I am also running thier catless midpipe with no CEL. The starter was replaced with a 14 tooth unit about a year ago and I always stay on top of basic maintenance, the sensors are regularly cleaned, etc.
I have a compression tester and only recently has compression started to degrade slightly but still making good power and no issues up until now. The car idles great for the most part and starts up well hot or cold, if not a little longer when cold. SSV has never been cleaned but the actuator moves freely with a vaccum pump applied.
Alright... so this all started about 2 months ago after 4 years of trouble free ownership...one day the tach randomly dropped to 0 rpms while crusing and the traction light came on. I tested the battery with a multimeter and pulled the negative terminal which solved that issue...fast forward about a week later while driving home one night I started to feel a lack of power and got a loud backfire out of my midpipe followed by a misfire flashing CEL. Initially it threw a P0172 running rich in addition to the misfire code. I limped it back and did a battery pull and ESS profile reset. I suspected the spark plugs were on the way out as they had close to 20K on them. Swapped them out and cleaned the MAF and ESS for good measure as well and it ran great for about 2 weeks.
On another random trip the lack of power showed up again and when I was coasting in neutral to come to a stop the RPMs dropped fast, bounced off zero then surged and stalled. This time I got a P0335 for an eccentric shaft position sensor circuit issue. Another battery pull and ESS reset solved the issue temporarily again for another 2 weeks.
Yesterday the issues returned only this time at about 4500 RPM it was like hitting a wall and lack of power followed by every stop or coast in neutral leading to a stall and having to restart and limp home. Both of the same codes also returned. Again, I reset the ESS and fuel trims by pulling the battery which did solve the issue again temporarily.
At this point after countless searches and research into similar situations I am running out of ideas as to what could be wrong for the car to run well then suddenly revert back to this condition several times now.
Last edited by steveo540; 12-09-2019 at 11:44 PM.
12-09-2019, 09:12 PM
#2
Random electrical problems like this often start with corroded or loose battery terminals. The traction light coming on and the rpm dropping to zero point in that direction. And, as you say, a battery pull appears to fix it.
Start with posts, clamps and a load test of the battery itself and the charging system.
Start with posts, clamps and a load test of the battery itself and the charging system.
12-09-2019, 11:22 PM
#3
Random electrical problems like this often start with corroded or loose battery terminals. The traction light coming on and the rpm dropping to zero point in that direction. And, as you say, a battery pull appears to fix it.
Start with posts, clamps and a load test of the battery itself and the charging system.
Start with posts, clamps and a load test of the battery itself and the charging system.
As far as the traction light coming on that only happened initially. After that first instance it has been that the rpms are dropping at a normal rate in neutral when coming to a stop, but then falling rapidly to a stall along with the lack of power and engine codes.
Last edited by steveo540; 12-09-2019 at 11:45 PM.
12-13-2019, 06:51 AM
#4
Registered
Stalling while in neutral could possibly be the neutral safety switch on the tranny.
12-14-2019, 02:45 AM
#5
Not usually. The symptoms for that are a surging idle between 800 rpm and 1500 rpm.
This could be any number of things and will take some mechanical sleuthing. You could have failing ignition coil (need to test them using HEI spark load tester) or a failing fuel pump (need to do pressure testing, both cold start up and after warned and been running for a while). Intermittent failure on either of those will create an dying engine or it coming up suddenly short on power. Usually after the car is warmed and has been running some and creating load on them. After it cools down then everything can seem fine.
This could be any number of things and will take some mechanical sleuthing. You could have failing ignition coil (need to test them using HEI spark load tester) or a failing fuel pump (need to do pressure testing, both cold start up and after warned and been running for a while). Intermittent failure on either of those will create an dying engine or it coming up suddenly short on power. Usually after the car is warmed and has been running some and creating load on them. After it cools down then everything can seem fine.
04-12-2024, 03:15 PM
#6
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Not usually. The symptoms for that are a surging idle between 800 rpm and 1500 rpm.
This could be any number of things and will take some mechanical sleuthing. You could have failing ignition coil (need to test them using HEI spark load tester) or a failing fuel pump (need to do pressure testing, both cold start up and after warned and been running for a while). Intermittent failure on either of those will create a dying engine or it coming up suddenly short on power. Usually after the car is warmed and has been running some and creating load on them. After it cools down then everything can seem fine.
This could be any number of things and will take some mechanical sleuthing. You could have failing ignition coil (need to test them using HEI spark load tester) or a failing fuel pump (need to do pressure testing, both cold start up and after warned and been running for a while). Intermittent failure on either of those will create a dying engine or it coming up suddenly short on power. Usually after the car is warmed and has been running some and creating load on them. After it cools down then everything can seem fine.
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