I own a 2004 rx8 with over 100K miles on it. I'm on its second engine replaced my mazda with a little over 15K miles on it, and a few mods installed engine mods(BHR ignition, remedy water pump, cobb tuning, air intake, sohn adapter running 2 stroke Valvoline), and a battery relocation to the trunk(yellow top optima). My current problem is a shitty starting, car slowly cranks and takes a few cranks to turn on or does not turn on at all.i read on the forum about recalls on the starter on 2004 should be replaced with a newer starter from mazda. i purchased a starter from mazdatrix part#N3H118400R0A(goggled/forum searched to make sure it was the correct part number as well), and comparing it to the old starter for compatibility. I installed the new starter , went to crank the engine but nothing happens but hear small taps coming from the starter. I had someone ele start it for me to see if it was engaging the flywheel or making any kind of contact to the flywheel. The e-shaft pulley would not turn and be still so i knew the starter right away was not making any contact with the flywheel. i used a multimeter to check voltage on my battery and had a constant 12 volt. i did a voltage drop test at the starter and it was trying to engage at 10.5 volts( checked in the tech manual for voltage requirements, needs 11V). i also used an amp clamp and had 90-95 amps running through the + wire to the starter. my guess was that the problem was a faulty starter so to double check and not accuse mazdatrix i took it to get bench tested at autozone, with my battery to make sure i didn't overlook anything. battery passed , tested the starter 3 times and passed all three times. My guess was that somewhere from the solinoid terminal wire to the ignition key might be bad. I checked the starter interlock switch for continuity, and tested my starter relay. my question is could it be a burnt wire causing too much restriction that it will drop the signal to tell the solenoid to engage the starter? are there any voltage/ current(A) requirements for the wiring from ignition key to the solenoid? i tried searching for this in google/ tech manual and on here but i don't seem to find any answers or maybe i just suck at searching lol. if anyone has any answers, helpful troubleshooting tips, or know whats wrong i would greatly appreciate it. this has been a headace trying to figure out what is causing this since my old starter cranks and starts my engine shitty *** hell but this new one wont do a dam thing lol.

 

If you haven't turned your old core, try reverting to the old OEM starter and see if it does start your car, assuming that your ignition system are still good. You could return the one you purchased and just get a refurbished from O'Reilly's(which is what I have) or AutoZone for much less. Is your battery's cranking amps with in specs'?

 

I still have my oem which makes the car come on when i crank the car but takes a few slow cranls wish is a pita cuz its like i have to pray and get lucky to jave it start first time cranking. Im sure the battery is good since checked the voltage on it and it was in spec alsohad it tested in auto zone unless i shpuld take it somewhere else again to have it tested again lol...when i crank the engine over with the oem starter my current is the same as when i use the new starter...i verified this with the amperage clamp =( ....im thinking of hot wiring solinoid and seeing if that bad boy would crank at all while being powerd straight from the batter, if it does then i suspect it might be something electrical, fpund a wiring diagram but i cant find any specs on what the current/volts shoulf flow through all the wires leading up the solinoid.