Starting issue after coils wires and plugs replaced
#26
Same, not arguing, but you missed the part where I said I first check the battery, replaced plugs (new), connections, lines and then got to the coils, so I did not go straight to the coils.
My next steps were fuel pressure and then compression, which I still going to do for "peace of mind. So the "cousin" to parts-swapping to diagnose a suspected problem" does not apply here, I actually troubleshooted and fixed other issues I had. The part of replacing coils with known good ones was cheaper than buying an inductive timing light which I may or not need. Remember, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just an enthusiast that likes to work in cars in my free time, and for fun not to make a living.
My next steps were fuel pressure and then compression, which I still going to do for "peace of mind. So the "cousin" to parts-swapping to diagnose a suspected problem" does not apply here, I actually troubleshooted and fixed other issues I had. The part of replacing coils with known good ones was cheaper than buying an inductive timing light which I may or not need. Remember, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just an enthusiast that likes to work in cars in my free time, and for fun not to make a living.
#27
As I woke up this morning, I remember there is a way to check coils/inductors with a multimeter, and since I have one I decide to check the coils.
position-primary coil-secondary coil
LF - 17.89K - 6.88M
FT - 5.32M - 7.08K
LR - 5.35M - 7.08K
TR - 5.32M - 6.88K
Looks like the primary side of the front leading coil may be the culprit. In Theory, the primary side is used to buildup the charge (heavier gauge) while the secondary side is used thru induction to pass the large buildup to the plug. Lower resistance in the primary would mean a lower build up of energy, causing a weak spark.
Would that be enough for you Charles?
position-primary coil-secondary coil
LF - 17.89K - 6.88M
FT - 5.32M - 7.08K
LR - 5.35M - 7.08K
TR - 5.32M - 6.88K
Looks like the primary side of the front leading coil may be the culprit. In Theory, the primary side is used to buildup the charge (heavier gauge) while the secondary side is used thru induction to pass the large buildup to the plug. Lower resistance in the primary would mean a lower build up of energy, causing a weak spark.
Would that be enough for you Charles?
#28
I should add that this is not always the best way to test coils, but in my case seems to work. The coils have internal electronics that could fail, so in some cases, the pri and sec coils may be fine, but the internal transistors/diodes may the cause of failure.
#29
We had nice weather this weekend, so in between doing what my wife wanted me to do, I was able to to install the replacement coils from Charles, BTW, thanks Charles.
PSA - please remember that the correct way to test your coils is with an ignition coil tester, so before removing your coils if you think they are questionable, check them the correct way.
Posted a video of before and after, but the real difference was in the driving, unfortunately I did not take any videos of that. The car felt sluggish, a little hesitation at about 4.5k to 5K RPMs and had a weird sound to it at all RPM ranges, like it was not quite running in all 4 sparks. Reminded me when the distributor cap had a hairline crack in my old RX7 if that makes sense to the old guys here, lol.
PSA - please remember that the correct way to test your coils is with an ignition coil tester, so before removing your coils if you think they are questionable, check them the correct way.
Posted a video of before and after, but the real difference was in the driving, unfortunately I did not take any videos of that. The car felt sluggish, a little hesitation at about 4.5k to 5K RPMs and had a weird sound to it at all RPM ranges, like it was not quite running in all 4 sparks. Reminded me when the distributor cap had a hairline crack in my old RX7 if that makes sense to the old guys here, lol.
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