Starts, but Odd Behavior, CEL, 610
#51
04Green,
Mine is identical as far as resetting it. Can't reset it at all when completely cold. Warm it and then I can reset it. Only thing in that I can only reset mine when I have the engine off and key on.
Other thing is that after warming the car up and then shutting it off (at a light) and restarting, my cruise control comes back even with the cel still not reset.
Mine is identical as far as resetting it. Can't reset it at all when completely cold. Warm it and then I can reset it. Only thing in that I can only reset mine when I have the engine off and key on.
Other thing is that after warming the car up and then shutting it off (at a light) and restarting, my cruise control comes back even with the cel still not reset.
Cool,
Where I am on this, after looking at the TEAM posts that call 610 a PCM Configuration Error, not a PCM errror, is that the memory is aged, hosed and or cold sensitive. For testing, my trips below about 62 degrees. If close to that, I can just leave the key on a minute, then reset the code. The colder it is, (say down around 40), the more work to fix it. I have to run the car for a few minutes, shut it off (beware a flood) and then restart and I can reset the code. Drive down a straight piece of road, turn off the key for a few seconds, turn it back on. Reset at next light.
I have a used ECU heading to the company I am working with. They should have it early in the week. They are going to reload it and repair any weak components. the thought is the reflash (in the posts above) will work. I will test it when they get done and send them mine. We will see if just a reload on that one works as well. My guess on mine is that the config data for cruise control is hosed, that is what dies when I get the CEL. more data soon.
Where I am on this, after looking at the TEAM posts that call 610 a PCM Configuration Error, not a PCM errror, is that the memory is aged, hosed and or cold sensitive. For testing, my trips below about 62 degrees. If close to that, I can just leave the key on a minute, then reset the code. The colder it is, (say down around 40), the more work to fix it. I have to run the car for a few minutes, shut it off (beware a flood) and then restart and I can reset the code. Drive down a straight piece of road, turn off the key for a few seconds, turn it back on. Reset at next light.
I have a used ECU heading to the company I am working with. They should have it early in the week. They are going to reload it and repair any weak components. the thought is the reflash (in the posts above) will work. I will test it when they get done and send them mine. We will see if just a reload on that one works as well. My guess on mine is that the config data for cruise control is hosed, that is what dies when I get the CEL. more data soon.
#52
**UPDATE**
Car is running now on a used LKQ ECU that had the configuration data copied over from my original ECU. I put this one in the freezer for a bit before hand and wrapped it in an ice pack. Not freezing over night, but I was kind of impatient. Also, no real way to prove a repair if it was not broken in the first place. Car started and ran find. No errors. seemed to be able to talk to all the things it is supposed to talk to. Still running on the OEM tune.
Things learned so far:
More to come, but I get to drive again. Yeah.
Car is running now on a used LKQ ECU that had the configuration data copied over from my original ECU. I put this one in the freezer for a bit before hand and wrapped it in an ice pack. Not freezing over night, but I was kind of impatient. Also, no real way to prove a repair if it was not broken in the first place. Car started and ran find. No errors. seemed to be able to talk to all the things it is supposed to talk to. Still running on the OEM tune.
Things learned so far:
- You cannot just reflash an RX8 ECU without a bunch of data AND several parts of the car. You might be able to get away with only a few systems, but you have to have lots of pieces.
- It is possible to copy all the configuration data for all the systems out of a functional, but cold sensitive, ECU and write them to one from a different car. That is the process to get the one I am running on right now.
More to come, but I get to drive again. Yeah.
#55
Update:
The company working this is Circuit Board Medics. They have a web site under that name. They are now set up to do re-flashes via mail, with your old ECU to copy security data from. This means they do not need the car to do the reflash. The price they are now quoting is well below what my local dealers wanted to charge. They will also do repairs and I believe provide warranties on the repair. This is more than a reflash, but well below a new ECU.
I have several weeks on the reflashed ECU, including a track weekend. My Cobb tune is running fine on it, and it was cold tested at the track in the low 30's. Car runs fine. The ECU I used was from LKQ via Ebay and came with a warranty as well.
If you need help, go to their web site and click on "contact".
The company working this is Circuit Board Medics. They have a web site under that name. They are now set up to do re-flashes via mail, with your old ECU to copy security data from. This means they do not need the car to do the reflash. The price they are now quoting is well below what my local dealers wanted to charge. They will also do repairs and I believe provide warranties on the repair. This is more than a reflash, but well below a new ECU.
I have several weeks on the reflashed ECU, including a track weekend. My Cobb tune is running fine on it, and it was cold tested at the track in the low 30's. Car runs fine. The ECU I used was from LKQ via Ebay and came with a warranty as well.
If you need help, go to their web site and click on "contact".
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbarber
Series I Trouble Shooting
14
07-25-2015 01:34 PM