Car was running normally, highway speeds, and suddenly lost power, flashing cell, limp mode.

Six miles from dealership so I poked along at 30mph to the dealer. Motor did not overheat, but was behaving exactly as it did when a couple coils went bad 3 years ago. (I've been using the BHR coils ever since) This was Friday afternoon, I left the car and waited for a call Monday expecting to replace coils or plugs. Uh, nah! Replace motor was the call. The attachment has the codes that were read and the techs comments. I did not hear any metal on metal or rattling only backfiring and sputtering. Do the codes suggest any other problems or is this typical bad motor behavior?
Very confusing because I would have bet it was one or more coils/plugs. Trying to decide if it's worth throwing new coils and plugs in it. Thoughts?

 

If the tech isn't doing a proper compression test, they need to. We suspect that many engines have been replaced when there was no need to.

 

Well, he didn't and now the car is in my garage as I had it towed home today. No desire to tow it back and pay for a compression test. Any recommendations on how to proceed as it sits at the house?

 

Natch. Out of warranty. Stealership diagnoses bad engine by listening to it?
Do they pay techs commisions?

 

What? Natch?? Is that a repair suggestion or are you just posting random comments?

 

I hate thread hyjacking but ...


Then start your own thread in this subforum? You hate being rude, but are more than happy to be rude anyway when a different button would have enabled you to avoid being rude? I'll never understand people that profess a distaste for something that they are about to do or an understanding that they shouldn't, and then do it anyway.
-RIWWP

 

Start with the basics then, ignition parts (wires and coils first, since you have BHR coils). Get a coil tester to test the coils rather than just buying replacements. Plugs would still need to be replaced regularly, if you haven't kept up on that.

Check for vacuum leaks. Clean the MAF. Clean the ESS and reset the profile.get an OBD2 device that allows you to watch live data and we can help analyze what you are seeing. Pull one plug on each rotor (one rotor at a time) and crank the engine, listen for an even pulsing of air from the compression stroke for a quick check to see if you are indeed missing one or more seals. Check grounding connections. Drop the cat and check to see if it's clogged. Check the actuation of the intake valving.

 

I am a slow typer. I replyed before the last post. No, it was not a repair suggestions. Natch is short for naturally. Yes, not quite a random comment ,it was an observation of a case where a quick engine replacement is recommended out of warranty, when sometimes they will dispute compression numbers in hand if a warranty is in effect.

 

I apologize if my attempt at commiserating with the OP's situation was construed as hijacking.

 

Like I said I don't know what Im doing and I need some advice
"You may not post new threads" is why I didn't post a new thread... Please help me get to where I need to be! Sorry I seem to be an *ss right now, I truly do not want to be!

 

Do you see the "Post Reply" button on this page? Go up a few levels and look for the New Member forum. Look in that same spot. Click the "New Thread" button that sits there.

You can't post threads outside this subforum, but you can post them inside the subforum. 10 posts or more AND 30 days on the forum will lift the restriction about posting new threads elsewhere.

I will delete your posts from this thread once I see your new thread show up in the Live thread activity.



The "Post Reply" button that sits to the left and down of ...

<--- there

 

Big Cajun Dude - No sweat. Wasn't sure if there was some new acronym (natch) I wasn't aware of.
RIWWP. - Thanks. Now I have some place to start and things to rule out. Just replaced my CAT last month. Cleaned the MAF, and the K&N air filter out of my RB CAI two weeks ago. Plugs were replaced @ 45,500 miles, July 2010, with the install of the BHR coils and wires. I am currently at 71,700 miles.

 

Yeah, plugs first then. Plugs can foul up enough to cause problems in as short as ~10,000 miles, though a 30,000 mile interval is more common. You are nearly at that, so replacing the plugs is an easy first step that you are going to need to do anyway.

3 years on the wires, I'd get in contact with BHR about buying a replacement set. Wires can fail from time as well as mileage. I honestly don't know what kind of life expectation Ray has on his wires, so discuss that with him.

 

Ok, will do. The codes from the diagnostic pull at the dealer (attachment on 1st post) seemed rather standard. I mean I would think if it was an apex seal or bearing I'd have codes that more closely reflect that, or am I just wishing? I have a Harrison Can Scan I can connect and read some data. I've had it for years and running it in a windows 7 environment is dicey at best. It needs new firmware to do much more than read and clear cels.

 

You are just wishing when it comes to codes.

Codes are almost entirely focused on emissions controls and emissions regulations. Just like there is no CEL for worn brake pads, there is no CEL for worn or damaged seals. If a blown or failed engine, it COULD produce a CEL, but only as a side effect of the blown engine also causing a separate emissions part to fail.

Take a look through the list of CEL codes in the tech thread or the new owner's thread to see what I mean.

 

So for the tech to tell me that "The last 3 Codes we pulled indicate a bad motor" is only partially accurate so far as they could just mean the A/F ratio is simply too rich or too lean, and the H02s circuit is slow to respond because its got 10 yrs of wear.
Ok bro, thanks for the advice and guidance. I'll update the thread as I get more data. And if I hear back on my complaint I filed with Mazda NA Ops.

 

You filing a complaint for? You are not using stock nor oe like coils, just that alone they dont even need to look at ur car

 

First thin I would do is reset the ECU using the 20 brake stomp method.

 

That diagnosis is poor to say the very least... There really isnt any diagnosis there, just pulled codes and said you needed a motor without performing a Baro test or Compression test both of which Mazda requires for engine replacement under warranty.

The engine noise could likely be attributed to TSB: 01-10-42.

 

Agree, a very poor evaluation for such a big statement by the tech...

 

I am filing a complaint because all the dealership did was pull codes and listen to the motor for 30 seconds, then proclaimed bad motor. No compression checks, no plugs, wires, or coils (OE or not). What they are going to charge me for a new engine because the BHR coils failed? I filed a complaint because they don't give an EFF, and just want my money. And because I can. . . Thanks for asking.

 

You have fun with that. . .when the time comes. Thanks for playing.