Hey,

So i'm going to list the issues and then tell you what i've tried to do to solve them but it hasn't helped. I have a jdm 04 6 speed type s. Nearly 40k km on it.

- The 8 has rev hesitation issues. Specially when it comes to operating temps. The car doesn't rev smoothly. It basically revs to 4k and then it hits a speed bump of sorts and then revs to 7k and then another speed bump and then till red line. upon shifting i get this massive fireball coming out of my exhaust (the car is decatted).

I've checked the ignition coils in a manner that i made the mechanic pull the wires while the car was on and see if there was a constant spark and all 4 were ok. im running autoexe wires on it and one of them was cut somewhat and leaking spark so to speak so changed that single one back to an oem.

The other thing i somewhat checked was the fuel pump. the mechanic disconnected the fuel line and then attached a pipe to it which lead to a bottle. He then made me crank the engine for less than half a sec just before the car took ignition and said look the pump is fine as the liter bottle is now 1/6th full of petrol so it's pumping petrol. (don't think this was an effective way of checking)

The car starts great cold and hot so i'm sort of sure that it's not a compression issue.

the spark plugs are brand new

- abs, traction light constantly on. sometimes goes off. but the fault code it shows on the diagnostic is c1096. now the issue is that this is a pump motor code so i'm assuming that i need to get the unit changed. the issue though is that abs units that i've found second hand are not compatible with the car so im completely stumped as to what to do.

- the brake makes a wooshing sound going down and comes back up realllyyyy slow(as if its being dragged through the mud as opposed to snapping back right away). brand new brakes fitted front and rear. like less than 20km back and it still hasnt sorted out the issue.

i'm running 10w40 mineral oil and the cars always been run on that.

please help. i'm in a country where people have absolutely no idea how to fix mazdas and this is the only forum where i do my reading and fix my car through trial and error but its sorta leading me to go broke.

 

Where are you located?

The fireball without a cat is normal. I can even make them with my dead high-flow cat if I try hard enough.

The hitch at specific RPMs makes me wonder if you're having issues with the intake valves.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...valves-174009/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-video-184663/

The mechanic that tested your fuel pump is an idiot. Don't go to him again.
You need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and verify that it's between 55 and 65 PSI.

The part number for the ABS pump with DSC is F1Y3437A0C. It's over $1300 new but I've seen them used on eBay for $70.

When was the last time you flushed the brake fluid. Like really flushed it thoroughly?

 

Definitely sounds like intake valves, they operate at 4k and at 7k just like you say. I find it odd that they would both have the same issue since they're different valves. Can you search this site for SSV, APV and VDI troubleshooting procedures and see if those valves can be moved freely by hand?

Also, check that your MAF is clean and clean it if it's not. And while you're there, check for oil in the intake. It may be an air metering issue that manifests symptoms at SSV and APV opening points.

Did you have any kind of tuning to go with that street port?

The brake thing sounds like the brake booster. With the car off, pump the brake pedal. If it gets hard and stays hard, your booster is fine. If it never gets hard or softens on its own after a few minutes, you need a new brake booster. The brake job may not have been necessary.

 

The first thing to check is to make sure the intake valve solenoids have the proper wiring connector order and also that the vacuum lines from them to the valve actuators are also in the correct connection order. Getting those swapped around will result in the valves not operating in the correct sequence.

 

i'm located in karachi, pakistan. the issue with the abs pump with dsc is that i got one but the second i connected it it gave me a fault code which said that it's not compatible. don't remember the last time the brake fluid was flushed but i've been told that the master cylinder may have given way. once again im at the mercy of these A**hole mechanics who don't know shi* about rotary engines.

 

So today i noticed that it behaves this way at 5k exactly if im in the right gear. it's as if it's building boost and then shoots forward. also i did have a ssv issue as i had a rattle and check engine and changed them out. don't know if the mechanics put them back the right way but there's no check engine coming if they were malfunctioning right? is there a diagram available anywhere where i can see.

will check out the apv and vdi this week. going right now to get my fuel pump changed to see if that has anything to do with it.

i no longer have the street ported pettit. sold that to someone who wanted one so they could supercharge it(worst mistake ever to sell that car)

think i require a brake master cylinder change.

 

is there a wiring diagram that you could share? i'll get it opened this week and have a look

 

You can throw parts at it, but you don't have to spend money on that if you diagnose it properly. Brake master cylinder.. I mean maybe, but that wouldn't be my first guess. Test the booster.

For the order of connectors, that could easily be it. Here the right order https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...1/#post2891703

If you google "rx8 vacuum diagram" you'll get the .. vacuum diagram. It's that easy

You can use this for procedures or diagrams M A Z D A

 

i can't understand what's wrong with it at all. heard a bird chirping sound last night after i had done a few hard pulls and stopped the car. car was underperforming AF. A 1.8t audi a5 took me

 

Have you done any of the things suggested in this thread?

 

Most of us are thousands of miles away so we can't fix this for you. We can only give you advice. Whether you take our advice is up to you.

 

By the way, the c1096 code isn't about the ABS pump, it's an open circuit going to the pump. Very possible that you don't need to replace anything, just verify the wiring isn't damaged. Wiring diagrams available at the site listed above. So that makes 2 issues on your car that may be explained by bad wiring.. has someone taken your car apart?

You also don't mention if the ignition coils have been replaced, but if they're of unknown age or over about 40,000km old, they're due. You'll be shopping for a new engine otherwise.

 

hi my8 come out abs light and tcs on too. I get the code is c1096 the light come out when I start n car push drive or reverse and go off after drive on road a while. I off my engine and start it come out again what happen it is

 

 

Mechanic have use computer to check the hydraulic pump it’s keep off when drive 40mph n brake

 

Hey. So literally trying to solve issues by throwing parts at it. Brakes were being weird so changed the pads, the master cylinder and the booster. Working great now. ABS still not working. Have recently changed the fuel pump and it's really upped the power specially in the higher rpms. The car is still misfiring at idle. Thinking of getting the d585 ignition coils from bhr or rotary revs.

 

So i've developed a new issue. The car is making a scratching/rasping/metal plates being rubbed together sound after 6k rpm but only under acceleration.

 

Read up on MIAC: marbles in a can sound. See if it sounds like thay. Have you fixed the previous issues? I feel like a number of suggestions have been made for those.