Ugh...dealer says motor is likely going
05-04-2010, 10:57 AM
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Ugh...dealer says motor is likely going
My symptoms: Hard to start, really sluggish at low rpms.
They checked the cat, but it's not clogged. They did log some misfires, but only a handful...not likely to be causing the problems seen, so probably not an ignition problem (I would have sworn it was plugs/coils). They think it's probably the motor, and they want to do a compression and baro test for about $300 (is that normally what it costs?). I didn't have time since I've been here all morning waiting and have to get to work.
But, assuming that this is the problem...I should be covered under the extended motor warranty that Mazda issued...however I have been doing my own maintenance, and while I don't throw my receipts away intentionally, there is no chance I'll be able to find them. I only have like 45K on the damn car. And I HAVE been changing oil and filter. I told the guy I didn't think they could refuse coverage for alleged oil problems if the diagnosis wasn't that the damage was caused by bad oil but he said that's generally considered to be the reason. I don't know if he's nuts or what. Am I screwed here? This is my third rotary Mazda and I'd hate to stop being a loyal customer, but I sure as hell will if they screw me out of a motor.
jds
They checked the cat, but it's not clogged. They did log some misfires, but only a handful...not likely to be causing the problems seen, so probably not an ignition problem (I would have sworn it was plugs/coils). They think it's probably the motor, and they want to do a compression and baro test for about $300 (is that normally what it costs?). I didn't have time since I've been here all morning waiting and have to get to work.
But, assuming that this is the problem...I should be covered under the extended motor warranty that Mazda issued...however I have been doing my own maintenance, and while I don't throw my receipts away intentionally, there is no chance I'll be able to find them. I only have like 45K on the damn car. And I HAVE been changing oil and filter. I told the guy I didn't think they could refuse coverage for alleged oil problems if the diagnosis wasn't that the damage was caused by bad oil but he said that's generally considered to be the reason. I don't know if he's nuts or what. Am I screwed here? This is my third rotary Mazda and I'd hate to stop being a loyal customer, but I sure as hell will if they screw me out of a motor.
jds
05-04-2010, 01:04 PM
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Well, I was going to take the opportunity of bad coils/plugs to upgrade to the BHR ignition system but if I have to pay for a new motor I probably won't have funding to do that too. Although you're right...it makes no sense to put in a new motor and use old plugs and coils. If they're not bad now they will be at some point in the near future.
jds
jds
05-04-2010, 03:02 PM
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05-06-2010, 08:10 PM
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$300 for a compression test? Seriously?
No, to diagnose a vehicle at a Mazda dealership (well the one I went to) it should be like $79.95 for a disagnose's. They did mine yesterday and they Checked the compression and CAT. (Called back to tell them to check CAT but they said it would cost another $79.95. Told them not to check it since I don't want to pay extra. They still checked it anyways. Did not authorize that so if they put it on my bill its on them.)
No, to diagnose a vehicle at a Mazda dealership (well the one I went to) it should be like $79.95 for a disagnose's. They did mine yesterday and they Checked the compression and CAT. (Called back to tell them to check CAT but they said it would cost another $79.95. Told them not to check it since I don't want to pay extra. They still checked it anyways. Did not authorize that so if they put it on my bill its on them.)
05-06-2010, 08:39 PM
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lol
05-07-2010, 01:53 PM
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Actually, the dealer did say $315 for a "compression and baro test." That, and the fact that it was going to be another couple hours on top of the four I had already spent sitting there was why I declined. I'm going to have to do it, but...what should that cost? It does sound awfully expensive for a compression test to me.
jds
jds
05-07-2010, 01:55 PM
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I need to go to your dealer. It was $110 to diagnose (they checked ignition and cat and found nothing) and $315 for the compression test. WTF...
$300 for a compression test? Seriously?
No, to diagnose a vehicle at a Mazda dealership (well the one I went to) it should be like $79.95 for a disagnose's. They did mine yesterday and they Checked the compression and CAT. (Called back to tell them to check CAT but they said it would cost another $79.95. Told them not to check it since I don't want to pay extra. They still checked it anyways. Did not authorize that so if they put it on my bill its on them.)
No, to diagnose a vehicle at a Mazda dealership (well the one I went to) it should be like $79.95 for a disagnose's. They did mine yesterday and they Checked the compression and CAT. (Called back to tell them to check CAT but they said it would cost another $79.95. Told them not to check it since I don't want to pay extra. They still checked it anyways. Did not authorize that so if they put it on my bill its on them.)
05-07-2010, 02:28 PM
#15
Actually, the dealer did say $315 for a "compression and baro test." That, and the fact that it was going to be another couple hours on top of the four I had already spent sitting there was why I declined. I'm going to have to do it, but...what should that cost? It does sound awfully expensive for a compression test to me.
jds
jds
"Baro test"?
05-07-2010, 03:41 PM
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05-07-2010, 03:51 PM
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We do have a barometric sensor. It's not the first time I have heard of a baro test.
Page 11 or so.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf
Think he's just going by the Service Bulletin????
Page 11 or so.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf
Think he's just going by the Service Bulletin????
05-07-2010, 03:59 PM
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OK, found this thread...it's some kind of vacuum test:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=baro+test
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=baro+test
05-07-2010, 04:29 PM
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My thread there. Baro i assume is shortened barometric . But is internal vaccum, or low pressure, the opposite phase from compression, and should be related to compression in a loose relationship. A passing score/voltage depends on altitude and temp, though liberty mazda said nothing under a reading of 5v would pass.
05-07-2010, 04:41 PM
#20
Oh, I see. They test the engine idle vacuum and use the local barometric pressure as detected by the engine's baro sensor to standardize the vacuum reading much the same way there is a standardized RPM reading that is calculated for comopression tests. I have always just done that in my head.
05-08-2010, 09:48 PM
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Oh, I see. They test the engine idle vacuum and use the local barometric pressure as detected by the engine's baro sensor to standardize the vacuum reading much the same way there is a standardized RPM reading that is calculated for comopression tests. I have always just done that in my head.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 05-08-2010 at 09:50 PM.
05-12-2010, 02:55 PM
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OK, well this was unexpected. I took the car to a different dealer because they quoted me half the price of the first one for a compression test. They also didn't start trying to wriggle out of the warranty, in fact making comments like "well if it is a bad motor that should be covered." However, the compression test results were quite good...over 700 on both rotors.
They did note that my battery is going and I need new coils...not that they were claiming either was necessarily the cause for sure...and they recommended a decarb after the coils/plugs are replaced.
Now the funniest part...the car ran rock solid all the way home! Not one stall, no bouncy idle, no bucking/lack of power in the low rev ranges. I had to drive 20 miles back, in traffic, then highway, and then back in traffic, and it stayed solid. I'm sure it's down on power still and not the smoothest, due to the coils, etc....but still. I haven't had it run consistently like that for over a month.
Not saying the problems are gone....but that was pretty weird...
jds
They did note that my battery is going and I need new coils...not that they were claiming either was necessarily the cause for sure...and they recommended a decarb after the coils/plugs are replaced.
Now the funniest part...the car ran rock solid all the way home! Not one stall, no bouncy idle, no bucking/lack of power in the low rev ranges. I had to drive 20 miles back, in traffic, then highway, and then back in traffic, and it stayed solid. I'm sure it's down on power still and not the smoothest, due to the coils, etc....but still. I haven't had it run consistently like that for over a month.
Not saying the problems are gone....but that was pretty weird...
jds
05-12-2010, 03:36 PM
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OK, well this was unexpected. I took the car to a different dealer because they quoted me half the price of the first one for a compression test. They also didn't start trying to wriggle out of the warranty, in fact making comments like "well if it is a bad motor that should be covered." However, the compression test results were quite good...over 700 on both rotors.
They did note that my battery is going and I need new coils...not that they were claiming either was necessarily the cause for sure...and they recommended a decarb after the coils/plugs are replaced.
Now the funniest part...the car ran rock solid all the way home! Not one stall, no bouncy idle, no bucking/lack of power in the low rev ranges. I had to drive 20 miles back, in traffic, then highway, and then back in traffic, and it stayed solid. I'm sure it's down on power still and not the smoothest, due to the coils, etc....but still. I haven't had it run consistently like that for over a month.
Not saying the problems are gone....but that was pretty weird...
jds
They did note that my battery is going and I need new coils...not that they were claiming either was necessarily the cause for sure...and they recommended a decarb after the coils/plugs are replaced.
Now the funniest part...the car ran rock solid all the way home! Not one stall, no bouncy idle, no bucking/lack of power in the low rev ranges. I had to drive 20 miles back, in traffic, then highway, and then back in traffic, and it stayed solid. I'm sure it's down on power still and not the smoothest, due to the coils, etc....but still. I haven't had it run consistently like that for over a month.
Not saying the problems are gone....but that was pretty weird...
jds
