VIDEO: Dead battery and coolant help
#1
VIDEO: Dead battery and coolant help
http://www.youtube.com/embed/Rg41fEYQUDg
I may or may not have left a light on in my car I'm not really sure.
Can it be a weak battery?
And I did could not find how to add coolant. Should I just add it and the turn on the engine. or should I turn on the engine and then add it
Thanks in advance
I may or may not have left a light on in my car I'm not really sure.
Can it be a weak battery?
And I did could not find how to add coolant. Should I just add it and the turn on the engine. or should I turn on the engine and then add it
Thanks in advance
Last edited by camilo123456; 08-04-2012 at 11:43 AM.
#2
Is my baterry dead? .mp4 - YouTube
Add it to the full line with the engine cold.
And the battery may be weak, your starter crank speed is pretty low, but you likely have flooded it at this point.
Add it to the full line with the engine cold.
And the battery may be weak, your starter crank speed is pretty low, but you likely have flooded it at this point.
#3
Is my baterry dead? .mp4 - YouTube
Add it to the full line with the engine cold.
And the battery may be weak, your starter crank speed is pretty low, but you likely have flooded it at this point.
Add it to the full line with the engine cold.
And the battery may be weak, your starter crank speed is pretty low, but you likely have flooded it at this point.
why should it be flooded at this point? and do you think is the battery or not?
#5
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
You had one of the cause points, so it was fairly simple deduction from there
Flooding:
Flooding is only a concern if you have a weak ignition system. The problem is, your ignition system usually fails very slowly, so it is a gradual decline. The alert and responsible owner will detect the drop in mileage, the drop in power, the rougher idle, the occasional misfire, and replace their coils, plugs, and wires before it gets bad enough where there is a chance at flooding.
Every single flood I have seen reported for quite a while ended up coming down to one of these failing: Battery, Starter, Coil(s), Plug Wire(s), Plug(s). But by then, they also generally have a fried cat that needs to get replaced as well, and possibly an O2 sensor or two. Stay on top of the maintenance (long term included!) and you will wonder what all the fuss was about. Coils ($160 for all 4, 20 minute swap), plugs ($80 for all 4, 10 minute swap), and wires ($60, 2 minute swap), should be replaced every 30,000 miles, possibly sooner if you detect something starting to fail, since people have had them fail as early as 8,000 miles or 15,000 miles, though that's rare.
You don't want to shut off while it's cold simply because when the engine is cold, the ECU dumps more fuel into engine to help it warm up, and it leans back once the engine is warm. This extra fuel can make it harder to start an ignition, which a healthy ignition system is perfectly capable of overcoming. Weaken the ignition with failing plugs, coils, wires, alternator, starter, or battery, and you have a flood on your hands, and all the associated problems from that.
Flooding is only a concern if you have a weak ignition system. The problem is, your ignition system usually fails very slowly, so it is a gradual decline. The alert and responsible owner will detect the drop in mileage, the drop in power, the rougher idle, the occasional misfire, and replace their coils, plugs, and wires before it gets bad enough where there is a chance at flooding.
Every single flood I have seen reported for quite a while ended up coming down to one of these failing: Battery, Starter, Coil(s), Plug Wire(s), Plug(s). But by then, they also generally have a fried cat that needs to get replaced as well, and possibly an O2 sensor or two. Stay on top of the maintenance (long term included!) and you will wonder what all the fuss was about. Coils ($160 for all 4, 20 minute swap), plugs ($80 for all 4, 10 minute swap), and wires ($60, 2 minute swap), should be replaced every 30,000 miles, possibly sooner if you detect something starting to fail, since people have had them fail as early as 8,000 miles or 15,000 miles, though that's rare.
You don't want to shut off while it's cold simply because when the engine is cold, the ECU dumps more fuel into engine to help it warm up, and it leans back once the engine is warm. This extra fuel can make it harder to start an ignition, which a healthy ignition system is perfectly capable of overcoming. Weaken the ignition with failing plugs, coils, wires, alternator, starter, or battery, and you have a flood on your hands, and all the associated problems from that.
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