Week old RX-8 is dead :(
#26
Basically what you're doing is clearing the chambers prior to letting more fuel in. You want to do this 2-3 times for 15 seconds each time prior to letting it try to start on its own.
When it does start fire it's going to spurt and spuddle and jump and woggle (lol!). You may need to apply a little bit of gas to get her past this "phase".
Put her in neutral, apply the parking brake and don't worry about the clutch (beyond pushing it down to get her to crank).
It will start. The tease you mentioned tells me as much. Be prepared to be greeted by some serious smoke too.
#27
Dear Everyone,
I thank you all for the help, I just ran ShellDude's steps again and it finally cranked over! I am letting it run for a while and might even go to the store really quick just because.
Anyways thank you all for the help, it sounds like it is running smoother and nicer now due to the new oil and spark plugs, and hopefully the coils will help even more.
I thank you all for the help, I just ran ShellDude's steps again and it finally cranked over! I am letting it run for a while and might even go to the store really quick just because.
Anyways thank you all for the help, it sounds like it is running smoother and nicer now due to the new oil and spark plugs, and hopefully the coils will help even more.
#28
Ok James ... now that we're through it... I must point out that normally you would've been flamed to no end (and it still might come). The procedure I had you follow is right out of your owners manual
#29
Neither of those two are OEM but the spark plugs yes they work click on my link
https://www.rx8club.com/mazmart-88/r...-cheap-212806/
all those parts are NGK personally from what i've seen here on the forum dont install any major components of an RX8 with the name brand duralast thats autozones knockoff.
W.O.T. Wide Open Throttle (gas pedal to the floor)
Go on mazmart and order the coils from there the guy Paul who runs the place is a great guy to deal with.
Its labor day so I doubt you local dealer is open except for sales which is usless to you so call tomorrow and check the cars history.
https://www.rx8club.com/mazmart-88/r...-cheap-212806/
all those parts are NGK personally from what i've seen here on the forum dont install any major components of an RX8 with the name brand duralast thats autozones knockoff.
W.O.T. Wide Open Throttle (gas pedal to the floor)
Go on mazmart and order the coils from there the guy Paul who runs the place is a great guy to deal with.
Its labor day so I doubt you local dealer is open except for sales which is usless to you so call tomorrow and check the cars history.
#30
#31
OK, well the coils are already shipped to my townhome down @ school so nothing I can do about them now? Hell, I am going to plop them in anyways, probably better then what is already getting run on this car anyways knowing that the spark plugs were disgusting and in the wrong spots and the oil looks like it hasn't been changed in 100k miles.
Either way thanks for the tips, once I have more money i'll probably change out the coils and wires then. I also do thank everyone for the patience, I do know those were probably from the owners manual - that of which I do not have in my car as it did not come with it?
I do have a question: is it supposed to take a while for the engine to crank over, or is that my starter being shitty? I am going to take it to Mazda later this week when I have time, though I was wondering if anyone could answer it off the bat.
EDIT: the reason I went with the Duralast coils was because they were only $28.00 / coil vs the $220 for 4. Saved me more then half, and I am only a college kid (granted with pretty good income) though I wasn't expecting to drop $220 on just coils.
Either way thanks for the tips, once I have more money i'll probably change out the coils and wires then. I also do thank everyone for the patience, I do know those were probably from the owners manual - that of which I do not have in my car as it did not come with it?
I do have a question: is it supposed to take a while for the engine to crank over, or is that my starter being shitty? I am going to take it to Mazda later this week when I have time, though I was wondering if anyone could answer it off the bat.
EDIT: the reason I went with the Duralast coils was because they were only $28.00 / coil vs the $220 for 4. Saved me more then half, and I am only a college kid (granted with pretty good income) though I wasn't expecting to drop $220 on just coils.
Last edited by JamesD31; 09-03-2012 at 03:47 PM.
#34
Hard to start warm rotaries are typical with age and are a sign of poor compression and/or weak ignition.
Be sure to read our "New and Potential Owners" threads, here: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
They'll save you from a ton of grief...
Be sure to read our "New and Potential Owners" threads, here: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
They'll save you from a ton of grief...
#35
Should start a lot better with the coils.
When you install them, do the 20 brake pedal stomp to reset the ECU. I think the procedure is to turn on the car and stomp the brake pedal 20 times as fast as you can. One of the gauges will move to tell you it succeeded on some models. All this and more is in the links above.
And, welcome.
I do suggest that once you are running well you clean the MAF and clean the ESS sensor. Again, the procedures are in the links above or you can search.
When you install them, do the 20 brake pedal stomp to reset the ECU. I think the procedure is to turn on the car and stomp the brake pedal 20 times as fast as you can. One of the gauges will move to tell you it succeeded on some models. All this and more is in the links above.
And, welcome.
I do suggest that once you are running well you clean the MAF and clean the ESS sensor. Again, the procedures are in the links above or you can search.
#36
+1 on 04Green`s previous comment. There is a lot of free stuff you can do to improve performance, smooth idle etc.
Get those coils in. Dont keep it for later. Its only 28 bucks each. Poor ignition can controbute to cat failure, indirectly engine failure, misfires etc. If they were never changed, I would do it asap.
Also clean your ESS, MAF sensor with electric contact cleaner or throttle body cleaner. While youre under there push out your air filter box and check your air filter. If its not that dirty you can dust it off, vaccum it. I would put the K&N drop in which is like 60 dollars but lasts a lifetime and traps more dirt. You can buy the cleaning kit and renew it every year.
cheers!
Get those coils in. Dont keep it for later. Its only 28 bucks each. Poor ignition can controbute to cat failure, indirectly engine failure, misfires etc. If they were never changed, I would do it asap.
Also clean your ESS, MAF sensor with electric contact cleaner or throttle body cleaner. While youre under there push out your air filter box and check your air filter. If its not that dirty you can dust it off, vaccum it. I would put the K&N drop in which is like 60 dollars but lasts a lifetime and traps more dirt. You can buy the cleaning kit and renew it every year.
cheers!
#38
If you have a MT..pull start it. Put in the front tow hook and pull it to about 20mph...put it in gear ( key on ) and let the clutch out until it turns over...it will likely start in about 50 feet. Keep it running by modulating the gas until it clears out all the crap
Be prepared for a smoke show...the neighbours called the fire department when I started mine after the body shop flooded it really bad
Be prepared for a smoke show...the neighbours called the fire department when I started mine after the body shop flooded it really bad
#42
I told my dad once if ever he were to move my car in the garage that he needed to warm up the car before turning it off or it would flood and not start again. So one time he moved my car and he let it idle for 20 mins!!! I said no need for 20 mins of wasting my gas, just for the temp needle to slightly move then youre fine. It can be below C and still not be flooded.
#43
Yea, he probably did, because he pulled it across the street (we have a park across the street with parking) and just cut it off, so it was on for a whole 30 seconds. He knows now - even though he still thinks it's ridiculous to have it "run" to not flood when just moving it 5 feet.
I will also clean the MAF and the ESS (if I can get to it) when I do the coils since I have to take off the air intake anyways right?
I will also clean the MAF and the ESS (if I can get to it) when I do the coils since I have to take off the air intake anyways right?
#44
#45
Yea, he probably did, because he pulled it across the street (we have a park across the street with parking) and just cut it off, so it was on for a whole 30 seconds. He knows now - even though he still thinks it's ridiculous to have it "run" to not flood when just moving it 5 feet.
I will also clean the MAF and the ESS (if I can get to it) when I do the coils since I have to take off the air intake anyways right?
I will also clean the MAF and the ESS (if I can get to it) when I do the coils since I have to take off the air intake anyways right?
So I was just messing with ya'
And yes, you might as well do the work you mentioned since the intake will be removed.
#46
Dont suppose anyone has a good list of all these little things, 04greens link is pretty good and found a few things in there i havent found in the rest of the forums, hard to find stuff for us new owners mainly becouse we dont know what were really looking for.
#47
Try this one out, I've noticed a lot of mods link to this for first time owners, it's quite helpful to most.
Congratulations, You got an 8!]
Congratulations, You got an 8!]
#48
I don't think this is widely documented but if you squirt some seafoam into the two LIM vacuum ports that'll help to clear a heavy flood.
In those instances where I flooded the procedure right out of the manual ultimately was the way to go.
1. Hold the pedal at WOT, crank for 15-20 seconds.
2. Wait a minute, repeat.
3. Wait a minute, repeat.
4. Normal crank no throttle a couple times -- 15-20 seconds each. If it tries to fire and refloods (you'll know by the sound of the crank) start over at 1.
5. get it up to operating temp then go drive the **** out of it.
Also -- man sure are a lot of "I just bought my 8 and it died" posts lately. Seems all the 2004 non fanatics are dumping their 8 on account of the extended warranty expiring.
In those instances where I flooded the procedure right out of the manual ultimately was the way to go.
1. Hold the pedal at WOT, crank for 15-20 seconds.
2. Wait a minute, repeat.
3. Wait a minute, repeat.
4. Normal crank no throttle a couple times -- 15-20 seconds each. If it tries to fire and refloods (you'll know by the sound of the crank) start over at 1.
5. get it up to operating temp then go drive the **** out of it.
Also -- man sure are a lot of "I just bought my 8 and it died" posts lately. Seems all the 2004 non fanatics are dumping their 8 on account of the extended warranty expiring.
#50
glad the issue got resolved, reminds me of the one time my car got flooded dad related as well I was sleep he got up early to wash his car moved mine and left it where it was I know he's **** about putting things back in place so I was like yea he probably flooded it went to move it and it was flooded I was like "wow dude I told you to let the needle move at least a few notches off the C before shutting it down".