Kind of off topic, but I had to have my power steering rack replaced after hitting my back driver side wheel on a curb and bending it. After having the car for 3 weeks because they couldn't get parts, when they finally got the parts they moved the car to start working on it and flooded it(I've had the car for several years and still have not flooded it btw). So then after de-flooding is done my powersteering system in completely dead and I ended up having to replace the rack for something stupid like $2500.

And this was a Mazda dealership, and even though it was a Mazda dealership I still gave them the "don't flood it" talk I give everyone, and like everyone they flooded it anyways.

 

Unfortunately the stupidity is not limited to Mazda mechanics...

 

Turn out that it was SSV and on top of that I have low compression. Need a new motor or an engine rebuilt. New motor about 4400 plus labor about 6000 total!

 

You can do better than that on the engine. That is basically a $4,000 labor profit for the dealer. Dealer list price for an engine hovers around $2,000. That dealer is marking the engine up another $2,400, and then over-charging for labor.

You can do far better.

 

Did they give you actual numbers on the compression? With the prices they are quoting you I would want to know exactly what numbers it put out.

 

I don't even know how to read this graph. speed at 273rpm, port 1: (measurement. 528, compen.(250rpm) 483.03) which number is it ?? so that i could write the next ones.. for some reason I can't post a picture.

 

you get 6 numbers. 3 for each rotor x2 rotors

 

there's two columns for each. measurement and Compen.(250rpm) then numbers in each.

 

Posting them would help. It is sounding correct, since all compression scores need to be corrected to 250rpm and sea level in altitude.

 

so I'm assuming post the ones under Compen.(250rpm). [NO.1] = 483.03, 506.03, 441.03. [NO.2] = 552.03, 477.03, 499.03.

 

that looks like kPa I think...


If so, not a single one of your rotor faces passes compression, when you only need 1 face to fail.

 

Yup none of the numbers reached 600.

 

I got my new motor down when I went to school (@ Illinois State) and for parts and labor (thank god my extended warranty covered it) they told me was going to be ~$3,400... I would change Mazda dealerships - which one(s) did you go to?

 

The one at Evanston

 

Got an idea. Would it be possible to get full coverage on the car without them knowing that the engine is bad and then in a couple of months tell them I need a new engine and they would cover it ?????

 

I am not sure how extended warranties truly work. I got mine through the shitty dealership I bought the car for, but only pay ~$151 per month and they have already replaced my motor and radiator with brand new parts (I only paid $100 deductible).

This is the company I use: Flexible VSC Plans. Custom Programs. One-of-a-Kind Solutions from NAC. though they have no way of doing anything with them on their actual website (to my knowledge).

It is worth a try, but I am not sure if they will want an inspection (just like if you tried to get health/life insurance).

 

For a used car that you aren't buying the warranty at the time of purchase, the cost of an aftermarket warranty goes up, ALOT. Typically, you can expect that the cost of the warranty will be MORE than the cost of a replacement engine. It was when I glanced at a warranty out of curiosity for my 8. It was something like $1,500 up front plus a monthly payment for a few years, something around $4,000 total.


So even if you were successful in pulling that off, you would have spent more than just buying a replacement engine.

 

I strongly advise you to go to a different dealer.
My motor AND transmission+clutch WITH labor didn't even break $6,000.
So unless they're willing to throw in a new transmission on that price, they're trying to screw you with a flagpole.
In fact I would ask them for a written estimate, then explain to them what other dealerships charge. Then just before leaving mention that the BBB will be notified about it.

If you're really set on using this dealership, let me know and I will scan my service receipt for you to show to them. I guarantee that'll put them in a hot seat...
PM me if you're interested.

 

RIWWP: I was thinking about seafoming the engine to clean it just like you did which would help a little I'm assuming. Then getting insurance which shouldn't be as expensive as you guys are talking about here in Chicago. I'm not sure exactly the type of insurance that it is but is the type that coverages your transmission, engine, ect. I refuse to let to go of my rx8, I only have a year with it.
I was reading you're thread the Decarb one and thought about doing the same with my engine then trying to get the insurance.

 

LittleZ360: which dealership you went to here in Chicago ?? Maybe I'll give them a call and see what they say ? How recently you did this to your car ??

 

It was Anderson Mazda in Crystal Lake at the corner of Rt.31 & Rt. 176. Last summer.
They're very honest and there is a technician there that is very knowledgeable with rotary engines, I believe his name was Jim but don't hold me to that cuz I'm bad w/names.

It's about an hour from the city just so you know...

Also, it was a few months after my motor replacement I had concluded that my SSV had begun to stick (the intake manifold is simply taken from the old motor and placed on the new one) and they said they'd tear into it and clean the SSV for around $250. The rotary wiz over there said he felt it should be part of the standard procedure when replacing the motor to clean the SSV, but it isn't.
Even so, I declined and decided to do it myself. I drove the car pretty hard for that week and the SSV issue seemed to go away until just recently.

 

I'm scatching my head a bit.

One shouldn't be dependant on the other. I also think that while carbon choking can certainly kill an engine, it probably isn't even a large percentage. I think cooling system failures kill more engines than carbon.

Getting an aftermarket warranty/insurance just because you attempted a carb cleaning that may or may not have worked doesn't make much sense to me.

 

Honestly, do not bother with trying to get the extended warranty to try to cover the engine. What I am paying is not close to what you will pay.

Another thing, Mazda dealership (one in Bloomington who did my first few repairs since they are the only dealership around down there) took 3 visits before they claimed it was the engine (god that was annoying).

Either way, they cleared the carbon out.. made the engine worst. Because originally my compressions were ~12 (I might have overfilled the oil they say). Though, they drained the oil and cleared the carbon, which loses compression = WAY HARDER TO DRIVE AND KEEP THE ENGINE ALIVE.

If you plan on keeping the car for a few months to save money for the expense, I would NOT clear the carbon and just try to keep it above compression.

The last dealership I went to (Pugi Mazda in Downers Grove) was alright, though I still hate them; no dealership wants to look at my damn starter, all saying it is "fine" because eventually it starts the engine.

Either way, they had like two more 8's there, so I have a feeling they do some OK work on them. What was nice with them, is they have this program where it is kind of like a loan; and the loan will cover the repair and you pay monthly. If that is another approach, check that out.

I heard Continental Mazda in Napperville is really close with EvolvChicago and will do good work and some discounts if you mention you are a member with them.

Also if you do go down the warranty thing. Make sure you know the DIFFERENCE between an "insurance" and a "warranty." They are two completely different things.

I have also been to Wilkins Mazda, they were alright (also had a few 8's in the garage) but I still dispise them as they were decent nice, but never helped me out.

Out of the 3 Mazda dealerships I have been to, I liked Pugi the best as they tried to help me out somewhat.

 

If it were me, I'd garage it and turn it into a project. That's what I'm going to do when my engine bails out on me (knocking on wood). Although you said you've only had yours for a year, I can understand getting the work done.
However just keep in mind, that these cars are very meticulous and sometimes pricey to maintain. I've had mine for 7yrs and it's damn near had every moving part replaced at this point.

So what I'm trying to say is, don't expect to be smooth sailing like a camry even after forking over $6k in repairs. She'll still bite you in the butt now n then and you gotta be willing to deal with it. For some, it may be wiser to just cut any losses.

I'm not trying to change your mind of keeping it or fixing it. But it's wise to consider all options.
If you love it like most of us do, then keep it, buy it stuff, give it a lot of baths, and drive the crap out of it.
If everybody in your town hates you, then you probably drive your Rx-8 correctly.

 

just wanted to update you guys... My 8 is back in business!!! I had the car sitting in my garage since November. I didn't know what to do, since I LOVE the car. Everybody from my inner circle kept telling me to sell the car and buy a new car.. They had finally convinced me, I starter searching for another car to trade in my 8 with. I found a Honda civic 2006 manual transmission and I was willing to trade it in. Until I got in contact with the Honda dealer and they told me they would only offer me 500 to 1000 for my 8, i SAID NO THANKS.. NO WAY I WAS GIVING UP MY 8 FOR THAT PRICE. I starter searching for an use engine here in Chicago . I found one in a junkyard with less than 80,000 miles. I took a risk with it. bought it and had a friend of mine install it for 500 dollars. Now the car runs better than ever before!!! I could finally shut off the engine while hot and it turns on with out any problems. I still got to take it to the mazda dealer to get a compression test on it but I'm sure it will pass the ompression test since I dont have a hot start issue any more..