Do you have something to read engine parameters, in the same way you read codes? Check the long term fuel trim (LTFT) and short term fuel trim (STFT). If you have a vacuum leak, you'll see it immediately on a warm idle as a high (+10 or more) LTFT or STFT that's pegged over 20.

 

i have a crazy *** idea. why dont you pull the batt cables. then do an ess reset.

then start the car and dont touch it till the cooling fans come on..'

then maybe drive it a bit.'

then report back here..

just saying.

beers

 

Duh lol I was waiting for the fuel trims to relearn. I just never had a lean code pop from the ess reset. I reset the ess and the one that you pull the room fuse to reset, I think nvram. I just never had a lean code from that before. I figured that was the source of my idle issue since I've run into it before.

 

Yup I use torque to monitor all the readings and log it. I haven't gone through the logs yet to check the stft and Lyft but I have the log files handy ready to comb through. I was going to let it relearn it's fuel trims and then take it driving and monitor the numbers then. It just learned how to idle this morning so I will keep y'all updated.

 

All my vaccum lines are good except for the vfad lines. I have that blocked off from where a solenoid broke and no longer operated right. Cleaned the maf, air tube, and changed filter. I think it is still leaking though because if I blip the idle it will drop too low and struggle for a second before popping back up to 850rpm idle. It will drop down to 700-650rpm after blipping the throttle. So it sounds like I might have an intake leak somewhere or maybe my ssv sticking or something. I'm going to keep an eye on my stft, Ltft, AFR, and maf readings just to make sure it's all running clean and clear.

 

I have the same issue as OP. Start the car, misfires during cranking, and RPMs dropped due to flooding. I held the gas pedal to the floor to cut off fuel supply and the car started within 2 seconds. Pretty much every time I start the car.

 

I would warn with this one, that you could get a loud bang. It won't tear your face off, but it could result in something that scares you, lol.

Anyway, otherwise you always have the water method which ScannerDanner from youtube is using. Just spray water over parts where the vacuum leak could be and you will clearly hear the water being sucked in and the engine idling rougher.

 

I ended up pulling the fuse and doing 3-4 cycles of 10second cranks with 15-20second gaps in between cycles. Then hooked the fuse up and did the pedal to the floor for about 10 cycles. Then cranked with pedal at 1/4 travel and it struggled but started. Then I just kept it around 1.5-3k rpm till temp and smoke cleared then drove her home. It just learned how to idle this morning so we should be in the clear on the flood front for now.


I'm still not 100% sold on my having an intake leak, I think it may just be a code from the relearning cycle because the code has since gone away and hasn't come back yet. And I'm more used to looking for boost leaks than intake leaks so I appreciate the tip. How does the propane torch one work? Just blow the propane around potential leaks and if the revs increase or something backfires?

 

Yeah, revs up.

 

Been about 200 miles and the code went away and hasn't come back, idles clean and clear, maf reading steady, AFR steady, fuel trims average. I think I'm in the clear for an air leak. Next is to get a compression test for a pesky hot start issue lol