rotahitsu

iTrader: (1)

Hey everyone,

First off, I have a 2005 M/T, I try to start my car this morning and I can't get the car to start. I tried the deflood procedure even though I last drove the car 10 miles home from work. The battery/charging system is fine and the starter is turning the engine just no crank. I believe this is key, I also noticed when I turn the key to the on position, the hum noise I usually hear for a couple seconds is no longer there.

A week ago my car was acting like the fuel was cut around 3250 rpm, no acceleration and jerking. I'd been driving the car cruising on the state highways all day around 3 hours around that rpm. We stopped for some food and then it started to do that for a mile maybe a little more until I could pull over and let it sit for a minute then when I headed out again it was fine it didn't do it again. I was right at 1/4 tank of fuel so I filled up and head back driving another 2 hours home, cruising at 3250rpm. No problems since, until today's no start.

I'm thinking fuel pump I just want to be sure. I don't think it's the coils or spark plugs, it has been a year since i changed them but barely 10000 miles on them. I've been thinking of changing again soon but the no humming thing is leading me to fuel pump anyway. I just want to see what others think before I drop $325 for the BHR-upgraded fuel pump.

rotahitsu

iTrader: (1)

thanks,

how long would it take to get the replacement pump you offer? i rather this be quick and brainless since i don't want to risk messing up a fuel component of the car and causing fire/explosion.

also i have about 5/8s of fuel left in my tank will that cause any problems?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You will need to be careful with your fuel level...but you should be OK.....not really much of an option anyway Unless you want to use an extractor pump

Did you check the fuse and the wiring to the pump? A new pump wont help if there is no power there

rotahitsu

iTrader: (1)

ok, that's good. i just wanted to make sure that when i went to take out the pump that fuel wasn't going to overflow out into the interior of my car. i'll make sure i have some old towels all around to catch any overflow/spill and dispose of them properly.

i checked the fuse and pulled the rear seats up to make sure they were fine and connections were still good. everything checked out unless a wire broke somewhere in between that will be harder to visually inspect. doubtful since it drove fine last night. you're right about checking those though, i don't want to waste my money, which is also why i'll just go ahead and get the walbro pump so i'm getting quality parts and i'm future-proof for any possible turbo plans.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If it overflows it will not run into the car anyway...but it will fill the lip arond the top of the pump...and when you take the pump out it will have more fuel in the cup to drain out...just be careful and you will be fine...

If you don't have one..borrow a multimeter and check for power to the pump

The Walboro is a good upgrade to the stock pump..and is an easy DIY..hardest part is getting the locking ring off

rotahitsu

iTrader: (1)

what about for the whole assembled unit you sell?

http://blackhaloracing.com/products-...-pump-upgrade/

would it be possible for this to get here by the end of this week? i really would like the whole remove and drop-in solution but i don't want to replace with the crappy oem pump motor. i'd almost be willing to wait if it isn't something like 2 weeks. i'm having withdrawals already.

sorry to keep going with the questions. sucks this had to happen on labor day.

rotahitsu

iTrader: (1)

I went ahead and ordered the walbro pump and will attempt it myself. worst case i'll just get someone else to install it in the assembly though i should be able to figure it out. i looked at jeff's thread on it and it seems pretty straight forward, just need to figure out the clamp size for the hose from the pump discharge and the new o-ring size that he mentions. also the best method of melting that pop-off valve to the siphon.

thanks

Dale8000

I just pulled the starter out of my car and now I'm reading this and I'm worried that I might have the same problem. My car won't start after a long drive (3 hrs approx. at 3750 rpm) but i tried the next morning and it started 3 times in a row and I drove it around the block...an hour later I tried starting it and there was nothing...just the click of the solenoid pulling. This has happened twice in the past month and I was sure it was the starter because it clicked but there was no crank, and the battery and alternator were fine. So my question is, how do you distinguish between a bad starter and a bad fuel pump?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Bad starter..car doesn't turn over...but you have fuel pressure

Bad pump...car turns over but won't start ..no fuel pressure

Dale8000

ok thanks you just saved me a lot of stress...going to get the solenoid replaced tomorrow since its the good starter from late 2005-2008. I did the test where you try boosting the starter itself and it spun so i'm assuming its the solenoid.

rotahitsu

iTrader: (1)

i got it installed today. it was pretty easy just took a lot of hammering to get the retainer ring off. switched right out and melted the pop-off valve to the siphon. only thing extra i needed was a hose clamp and everything was back together and reinstalled. the car fired right up after the second start attempt. i have the familiar hum back after the car is switched on and knew right away that the problem was solved.

Charles and BHR rock for the 2-day shipping!!! Thanks!