Aggressive Wheel Fitment Thread
#2930
wassup guyz im gettin work emotions xt7 18x9.5 all around i need some help deciding on wat offset would look best to get tht agressive look also i have the veilside bodykit (if that helps)....i kno its best to go wit +30mm or less but dnt know wat to choose to get tht perfect look
#2931
Registered Toker
iTrader: (2)
Well you're looking at either a +20 or a +30. With the +20 it will look most aggressive, get some 245/40/18 tires and roll fenders (shave tab and all that fun stuff).
+30 you can have 255's/265's but a little less aggressive. Or get the 245's and not have as many fender troubles.
+30 you can have 255's/265's but a little less aggressive. Or get the 245's and not have as many fender troubles.
#2936
#2940
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chicago Area
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stupid noob question but I need to know, I figured I'd ask in here since it's all related.
What is involved with "shaving the tab" on the rear? I have 9.5 with an effective 20mm offset and I hit that tab still I have some good amount of camber but still having the problem every once in a while.
Just trying to find out what you actually do?
What is involved with "shaving the tab" on the rear? I have 9.5 with an effective 20mm offset and I hit that tab still I have some good amount of camber but still having the problem every once in a while.
Just trying to find out what you actually do?
#2941
The Angry Wheelchair
iTrader: (14)
Well, I shaved the tab down via grinding it to the screw so it still keeps the bumper intact but at the same time brings the amount of material out there to hit the tire to a minimum. Maybe once in a good while over a good dip mine may touch it but I don't mind since it just brushes the plastic off leaving a small plastic coat on the tire. I wound up cutting and folding up the wheel well liner under the fender behind the tab since that was going to hit first and then grinding the tab down. I also currently run -2.5 camber n the rear to help with preventing any contact as much as possible.
#2943
The Angry Wheelchair
iTrader: (14)
It's plastic, or rather polyurethane IIRC to be exact so you can't just bend it like sheet metal. You can use a heat gun on it to heat the material up and then force it up some but overtime it may just revert back to original orientation. What are you running for coil overs? I set my adjustable ones close to the stiffest setting also to assist with preventing hitting. Are you seeing just scrapping as in seeing plastic shavings come off and stick on the tire? If so I wouldn't worry about it. Or are you seeing impact hits on the tab where it's starting to break it?
#2944
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chicago Area
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh I see, I thought it was metal. I cut the plastic wheelwheel cover in that area and I have set my coilovers on the stiffest setting and raised the rear a bit more than I wanted to.
I don't hear the scrape against the tab as of today, but I wanted to lower my dampening a bit, since I don't like it that stiff (that's not what she said) and lower the height so that it looks right. So I know that tab is gonna be a problem if I do that.....
Unfortunately, I'm almost considering going back to my MS springs and struts since that ride was the most comfortable. The only thing I didn't like was the bigger gap in the front.
I don't hear the scrape against the tab as of today, but I wanted to lower my dampening a bit, since I don't like it that stiff (that's not what she said) and lower the height so that it looks right. So I know that tab is gonna be a problem if I do that.....
Unfortunately, I'm almost considering going back to my MS springs and struts since that ride was the most comfortable. The only thing I didn't like was the bigger gap in the front.
#2945
The Angry Wheelchair
iTrader: (14)
Well now that I recall that's half true in regards to the PU material. The fender is metal but the bumper is not. So when you grind it down you're removing both. If you bend it, the fender bracket will bend easily but you need to heat up the bumper portion to be able to do so without snapping it.
If I were you I'd grind it down more right to the screw if you haven't already and depending on your camber, run it a bit more negative.
If I were you I'd grind it down more right to the screw if you haven't already and depending on your camber, run it a bit more negative.
#2946
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chicago Area
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well now that I recall that's half true in regards to the PU material. The fender is metal but the bumper is not. So when you grind it down you're removing both. If you bend it, the fender bracket will bend easily but you need to heat up the bumper portion to be able to do so without snapping it.
If I were you I'd grind it down more right to the screw if you haven't already and depending on your camber, run it a bit more negative.
If I were you I'd grind it down more right to the screw if you haven't already and depending on your camber, run it a bit more negative.
okey dokes Vlaze thanks very much for the info, I'll try that.
#2947
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
offset+35 and +27 in the front i ordered a spacer for the back yesterday i just had an 8mm spacer sitting around so i threw it on for fun
18 x 8.5 in the frnt i know it doesnt meet requirements but the rears are 18 x 9.5 =]