Aggressive Wheel Fitment Thread
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12-19-2009, 06:39 PM
#1905
A LOT of people have been messaging me about grinding, fitment, pulls, blah. So since I finally took pics, thought I'll do a mini DIY.
First of all to run an aggressive setup all around, you'll need a roll or pull. Which means you've to get a fender roller and go to work.
After you pull, if you still have problems, do this:
Ok, so I got one of these ($15 bucks harborfrieght), and got to work.
So to see what part is rubbing, you can jack up the tire and look and see what it hits:
Then take the grinder and grind the parts, here is how my **** looks like for reference.
Rear Passenger:
Rear Driver:
Front Passenger:
Rear Pull:
No rub, woot:
Hope that helps.
To see bigger pics, peep the flickr.
First of all to run an aggressive setup all around, you'll need a roll or pull. Which means you've to get a fender roller and go to work.
After you pull, if you still have problems, do this:
Ok, so I got one of these ($15 bucks harborfrieght), and got to work.
So to see what part is rubbing, you can jack up the tire and look and see what it hits:
Then take the grinder and grind the parts, here is how my **** looks like for reference.
Rear Passenger:
Rear Driver:
Front Passenger:
Rear Pull:
No rub, woot:
Hope that helps.
To see bigger pics, peep the flickr.
12-20-2009, 07:11 PM
#1909
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Either wash it my self or drive straight in touchless FTW
12-20-2009, 10:30 PM
#1912
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You shouldn't/don't have to do a pull for that tire setup. And the front bracket for the turn signal can be modified like I did mine and you retain your turn signals... I had stock camber on the front and didn't lose them. I imagine with some camber up there you'd be clear just by shaving away at it till it fits. I heated what was left of mine up and pulled the whole bracket/screw piece upward out of the way and it flows with the angle of the stretch.
Throw in some good suspension/sways and the car wont flex to the point it hits. I kept my inner wheel well fenders too now that I think about it.
That back bracket also doesn't have to be cut off.. Just take your grinder and "shave" the front of it at a angle of course following the flow of the stretch. The inside is ribbed and even when shaved it will retain its strength.
I doubt it's very important though because my Autoexe rear bumper doesn't use it, matter fact I take that back because the Autoexe rear requires modifying of the rear crashbar so I highly doubt they care about safety... lol
So whats everyone doing for 2010. Surely everyone is switching it up, doing something new and exciting?
Throw in some good suspension/sways and the car wont flex to the point it hits. I kept my inner wheel well fenders too now that I think about it.
That back bracket also doesn't have to be cut off.. Just take your grinder and "shave" the front of it at a angle of course following the flow of the stretch. The inside is ribbed and even when shaved it will retain its strength.
I doubt it's very important though because my Autoexe rear bumper doesn't use it, matter fact I take that back because the Autoexe rear requires modifying of the rear crashbar so I highly doubt they care about safety... lol
So whats everyone doing for 2010. Surely everyone is switching it up, doing something new and exciting?
12-20-2009, 10:33 PM
#1913
My car is a little low, there is under an 1" of gap between the 1/4 and the top of the wheel. it still rubs at certain times, I'll eventually remove the whole plastic **** x bolt x tab and just zip tie it on, but too cold to do that. lol
12-20-2009, 11:07 PM
#1915
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Huh?
The car was roughly the same (if not lower) height his at now until I put my under brace kit on and had to raise it up, but even raised up I didn't have to go much higher. I found what I deemed the "perfect" height where the car can be driven normally and even driven hard without worrying about the wheels or going up my drive way. When I had it as low as Imput has his right now, the car was useless and I'm sure he can attest that it gets to a point where it is more annoying than its worth.
And the way the setup can be done the sky was the limit. The only thing that kept the car from sitting on the frame was the underbrace.
Last edited by T-ReX-8; 12-20-2009 at 11:19 PM.
12-20-2009, 11:12 PM
#1916
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I'm trying to figure out how to fit this 19X10.5" setup I have right now without a pull but I dunno if I can. Wheels are still being painted so if the buyer backs out for them and I get to try them on I'm sure I'll be getting my fenders pulled too. The only problem is for the fronts, you can't pull CF so I'm screwed.
12-21-2009, 01:01 AM
#1919
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They won't stick out at all... That's not an aggressive offset by any means. However it's a nice sized wheel to run a 265+ sized tire and put down some mean rubber at the track. Sometimes a less aggressive setup is what it takes to improve perf. Even Tilt down graded his aggressive Te37 setup for his current non-aggressive setup to run more tire.
Can't have both, not without a widebody, or some severe fender work lol.
12-21-2009, 10:12 AM
#1922
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Yes you are correct. To the regular eye a 245/40 is not much of a stretch for 9.5 and I apologize if I led anyone astray.
Any worries about the 255/35 as it's over 3% smaller than stock? I wish GOOD tires were made in 255/40 lol. Ive searched them all (nto5, re11, xs, z1 ss, ra1, r1r, etc)
Any worries about the 255/35 as it's over 3% smaller than stock? I wish GOOD tires were made in 255/40 lol. Ive searched them all (nto5, re11, xs, z1 ss, ra1, r1r, etc)
12-21-2009, 12:11 PM
#1924
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I agree with you though, AD08s aren't the cheapest tires available in its category but I've been happy with their on-track performance.
12-21-2009, 12:14 PM
#1925
^If you are having problems with the AD08's overheating...Give the Nitto NT05 a try. I have them in 275/35/18 right now on my RPF1's for track and once heated up, they worked amazing and after 20 minute sessions in 80 degree weather they still wanted more.